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diagnose the rear suspension problem.


spit1500

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had this 1360 for years......since 1991......but its been of the road for a few years so ive decided to get her mot ready, jacked the rear end up and the drivers side drum sits well clear of the back plate, maybe an inch or so. ive never really done anything to the rear end as ive never needed to, is this common or a odd case, any ideas of its cause, its almost as if the shaft is too long.....maybe some one has fitted in incorrect uj over its life? are they different in any way?
please help ....im concerned its something major.... :'( :'(

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CharlieB wrote:
Looks like someones fitted a late Spitfire driveshaft, they're an inch longer!
Has it been driven like that?

Edit: Doug's idea seems more likely!




its been driven and the friction material shows even wear......so clearly its moving somewhere close to where it should be......
i guess that the three suspension points are the the
top spring mount
trailing arm
and the location of the hub on the drive shaft......so if the hub/bearing assy are damaged/us the hub assy will rotate on the top spring mount axis.......or am i talking sh1t :o :o ;D ;D

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CharlieB wrote:
Looks like someones fitted a late Spitfire driveshaft, they're an inch longer!
Has it been driven like that?

Edit: Doug's idea seems more likely!




its been driven and the friction material shows even wear......so clearly its moving somewhere close to where it should be......
i guess that the three suspension points are the the
top spring mount
trailing arm
and the location of the hub on the drive shaft......so if the hub/bearing assy are damaged/us the hub assy will rotate on the top spring mount axis.......or am i talking sh1t :o :o ;D ;D

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doug_foreman wrote:
The hub is attached to the drive shaft by way of a woodruff key and the nut on the end of shaft ..so will not be affected by any bearing failure

Take a look from the other side to the last pic, where the drive shaft goes into the bearing housing  


sorry my fault ....by hub i meant the backplate/carrier.....and not errr the hub...LOL :B

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The backplate bolts onto the bearing housing ..the bearing housing is connected to the vertical link with a bolt through the trunnion..the head of that bolt is visable in pic 3 just up and right of where the shock attatches to the vertical link...so even if bearings are completely shagged the backplate will still not rotate

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i meant that it rotates on the axis of the top bolt....ie the bottom goes inwards ....not rotate as the wheel does......oh...im confusing myself....LOL
in anycase ill try and strip it tomorrow and report back.....if the rain holds off.... :-/ :-/

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Sorry i get what you mean now ..i think..the back plate and bearing carrier/vertical link does pivot on the trunnion and the spring bolt  but it shouldn't move along the shaft normally it just alters the camber of the wheel,but with the bearings worn or failed you will be able to move the whole assembly to and fro on the shaft a bit ...only saying this as that is exactly what my herald did ...looked exactly the same

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we had a shaft on our vit which had no shoulder for the bearing position on the shaft, it only relied on the bearing fit to postion it relative to the back plate , if it moved then it would have looked just like yours,,   did this happen after you let the jack down   ??   peter

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peterhlewis wrote:
we had a shaft on our vit which had no shoulder for the bearing position on the shaft, it only relied on the bearing fit to postion it relative to the back plate , if it moved then it would have looked just like yours,,   did this happen after you let the jack down   ??   peter


it does move inwards when jacked....but only half an inch.....im going for a bearing......although chance to work on it would be nice with all this rain about

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Although identical its best to run half shafts in the same rotation that they have always run in.
I have a pair of shafts/bearing housings/backplates in my garage but the bearings and UJ's are shot.
I removed them from my Herald when i swopped them for some units i reconditioned. Sadly the side which shot its bearing is the same side you need the bearing was destroyed due to the backplate bolts coming loose and letting water in and greese out. If you want to take your chances on the shaft being usable you are welcome to them.
You will need a puller to remove the flange from the shaft but its straight forward

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