Clive
-
Posts
4,811 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
73
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Clive
-
I very much doubt you will get new wheels, but a good set blasted and painted/powdercoated should be as good as. From what you are implying, you want original type tyres. I know somebody who got some recently, an original pattern dunlop or goodyear (memory fade on that point) BUT cost £800 a set for 155/13's. Ouch. They were radials BTW, not crossplies. Otherwise there are plenty of 145/80 155/80 tyres about, not expensive either. Recently got a set of toyo's for £100 (self-fitted)
-
Sorry, fresh out of conveyor belts ;D But you have a fair point, there must be other sources of decent material about. Need to get lucky and see what I spot at skool....... (Or have a look at Bills site)
-
Maybe somebody should invest in them :) however, they may be a slow seller as they cannot be seen, so may not appeal to many people. I will investigate the originals. Any pointers?
-
Not sure if these are available, but rather than the rubber washers are there poly body mounts sold by anybody? or a suitable alternative? I don't seem to be able to find any :B
-
Hmm, surely he can report it lost to the courier/rm and get the insurance? That should cover it, hopefully. Saying that, no proof of postage sounds worrying
-
I was thinking of the entire rear seat support in 1" box, the existing u channel is pretty flimsy. Plus where the tubes are use box section, the vertical uprights in 2x1 box and with bracing legs added. All moot now, it never happened. Wouldn't have been easy either, clearance very tight.
-
As Bill says, 2 lapbelts is the obvious route. Used that in our vitesse for several years, inititially with childseats, later booster seats. Saying that, the actual seat base was removed and a couple of layers of rubber underlay used with black carpet on top. Got the kids down a bit lower as it is very blowy in them (especially on long fast journeys, regularly at motorway+ speeds. There have been frames built to give strength across the top of the rear seats, but not sure about them really. I considered rebuilding th erear seat frame in 1" box with diagonal braces at the sides behind the trim panels, but it never actually happened.
-
thought the usual thing was a HIF44 from a metro. Should have the linkage etc. On my herald I ran a single HS4, that was pretty easy, few bits of metal bent to shape and it was good to go.
-
I'll butt in here (have fitted mgf rears on my rotoflex) yes, mgf have a handbrake facility, yes mgf disc fits over the wheelstuds. On my setup (custom brackets) I had to faff a lot to get them to fit under a 13" steel wheel, they do fit. Just. Hugh Glossop did this conversion ages ago, and used the std rear handbrake cable. He may have used different brackets on the end of the cable, really cannot remember, but it seemed to be quite simple. His ran under 15" mgf alloys so lots of space.
-
13lb, I bought one for a landy off the bay very cheap and actually works (unlike the previous newish one which was hopeless)
-
Indeed, smithys numax is as they came from the factory. And yes, I MUCH prefer the terminals at the rear. (now waiting for a reply from smithy ;D )
-
I AM very sure about those wheels. As in NO. And nab the yres and send them to the scrappy. £8 each around here.
-
Yep, loosen off the nut which hold the hose tight in the bracket, and also the nut on the actual brake pipe. Just a little. Then you can twist the hose to a better angle , tighten into the bracket, then the pipe nut. May not need to re-bleed, but wouldn't take more than a pump or two to clear any air that may have got in.
-
Now, which battery have they supplied? The one in the pic above isn't "correct" but looks like an 075 or 063 type, far easier to find than the original 038/015 batteries (063 is bigger and often cheaper, bosch 3yr ones £30delivered from the RAC website) Also the original batteries had the terminals at the front next to the clamp, where the larger ones locate them at the back as above, better (as less likely to short across the clamp)
-
I think the issue is with the head, and that the shallow early 2 litre head just has a better shape. The domed top pistons were really a fudge so that the 2 litre and 2.5 engines all used identical heads, so to get the compression back up in the 2litre needed the dome. From a simplistic point of view it seems "wrong" as you want the force from the combustion to push down, and the dome would seem to deflect that away. Of course, that is simplistic, but somehow dished pistons would seem a better idea (not possible on our cars though) Anyway, somebody should be able to point you to a real world difference. Andy Thompson?
-
^^^ I think I would agree about most of that. With such an installation it is all about getting the detail right. I am happy to be corrected, but isn't there a serious flaw in the GT6 weber manifolds to do with the linkage? All to do with the 3 manifolds being stepped to clear the bonnet. As I mentioned earlier, do the research (and that doesn't mean just ask one of the suppliers, find people who have managed to sort them correctly. Leon Guyot, now in the USA and sometimes on here, has a set on his vitesse. May well be worth hunting him down.
-
Probably a bit of wear on the engine (rings) allowing a bit of crankcase pressure. they have done the obvious thing to get it to run better. A good idea to run the pipe into a bottle/catch tank so oil doesn't get dropped on the road (can cause nasty accidents, especially for bikers, and sometimes cars)
-
If you really must fit them (and that in itself is a can of worms, do your research properly before starting, or it will end in tears and an empty bank account) The usual way is to use the takeoff near the rear of the head. I think it is a pretty std thread, and I have seen iron plumbing fittings used. Think there may be a fitting off the TR6 that can be used as well. Needed to get a bit of clearance. But rest assured, heater valve is the least of your issues!
-
depends on the diff. dave has it about right, the later 4.11 diffs have the larger shafts with the small flanges and will swap into a 1500 diff. Please do not ask me the numbers, it has been a good evening out :)
-
indeed. I run a set of winter tyres (175 65 14) on maestro/montego/mgf spare steel wheels. Seem to sit more inward than std wheels though, but I doubt that would be an issue.
-
indeed. I run a set of winter tyres (175 65 14) on maestro/montego/mgf spare steel wheels. Seem to sit more inward than std wheels though, but I doubt that would be an issue.
-
Yes, if the correct offset and PCD
-
Nice idea on the uprights. However, I have wondered if the existing holes (or just one) on the legs at the bottom could not be welded up and redrilled. Would be easier and the lower wishbone/shock could all be on the same bolt. Not sure how it would affect the supension, and it may need careful modelling. But your idea of cutting off and bolting a fabricated section top and bottom should work well. As to the lower wishbone, why such huge ali tube? I would use CDS steel, as used on the kitcars. Possibly steal marcus's design/layout too, or something similar. He has cracked the no camber change issue.
-
Use the ones with the springs around the spindles. They cause MUCH less wear on the spindles/carb body. I guess because they are twisting the spindle in the right direction, rather that crudely pulling the whole spindle/linkage up linearly. In fact, having just read^^^ I am in total agreement. (Really must read threads rather than latest posts)
-
Very wise!