Tim Bancroft Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Blimey, a thin spacer and 7/16 UNF studs and Revo wheel nuts will see you right.However, I am concerned about these large holes Revs.The other problem is the damned lacquer that Revo use, bloody stuff cracks and lets water in behind, corrosion!!!The Revs on my saloon are now looking awful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Paterson Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 JohnD wrote:Tom,You took a chisel to the wishbones.A mission-critical part, which you weakened in a way that will cause stress to be concentrated at that point.Tom, that is a BODGE.You should be ashamed of yourself.JOhnYeah - Agree with John. It may not be obvious that the end of the wishbone plays a part in its strength but it definitely does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 Got the spacers today from rimmers for free .. not happy with them !! :-/I said in the e-mail that i needed ones of 10mm .. So maybe buy some from ebay (the ones that gaz said) getting sick of it all ! Normally next week i get the studs , hope they are right . :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 4526 wrote:They are 3/8 48mm studs from a Early Dolly Sprint , Jigsaw Racing also sells them ( also contacted him) . hopefully i don't need to get the hub of :/ But think it does need to come off ,so another day of work .. hope they fit then ! ;)Will keep you posted ;) ;)You don't need to pull the hubs, they go in just..Also don't use a windy gun, your snap them :-/RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Keep going Wim. It must seem like a total hassle right now, but it'll be worth it in the end! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 242 wrote:You don't need to pull the hubs, they go in just..Also don't use a windy gun, your snap them :-/RRI know ! I don't trust that ! My neighbour ad problems with his new BMW because they used it , they couldn't get 1 wheel of ! :-/ :-/A 'friend' of mine used it everytime on his old VW beetle .. i think he's just crazy ! But he's 'the mechanic' >:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 RR i'm thinking of that i can use the wheel nut from the spacer wheel ( that is metal) and with some washers pull it in ;)Worked at the back ones :PHop to get the old ones out ? :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 4526 wrote:RR i'm thinking of that i can use the wheel nut from the spacer wheel ( that is metal) and with some washers pull it in ;)Worked at the back ones :PHop to get the old ones out ? :-/Tap em out with a hammer & a block of wood, easy, pull the new ones in with a nut, spanner & a socket over them.RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Hi WimI had recently changed my wheel studs only to find out that i did not have to if I had bought the right wheel nuts. To explain:I have set of slot alloys.When i fitted them it seemed that I did not have enough thread length left on the original stud for the new 3/8 wheel nuts (similar to - http://www.midlandwheels.com/Shop/P-1361-1/2-UNF--Taper-Chrome-Wheel-Nut.html) to bite.Not only was there not enough thread on the stud, the new nuts did not centralise the wheel properly. So I chanched the studs all round to M12 x 1.5mm which were land rover Bearmack studs.I sent photos of the wheels to midland wheels and they confirmed that I didnt in fact need to change the studs as the wheel nuts I had were the wrong type. :-/ They confirmed that I really only needed 3/8 sleeved nuts (http://www.midlandwheels.com/Shop/P-1344-12x1.5mm---11/16-Dia.-Sleeve-Nut.html with chamfered washer for my wheels. These nuts would slot through the hole centre when tightened thereby giving much more thread for the nut to torque on.As I had by then changed to the land rover studs, I had to order the ones above instead.When I went to fit them, the new studs turned out to be too long so I had to cut about 4mm of the ends ov every stud >:( especially on the rears.Suffice to say that I now have 12mm studs all round with the correct nuts for my wheels.So what I am trying to say is, would the correct sized sleeved nuts solve the stud length issue for you as I would have done me. If so a set of 3/8 sleeve nuts may be the answer but I am not familiar with the wheel nut hooles on your Rev wheels so cannot say for certain.As said by others, spacers should sort your other wheel issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 4526 wrote:Got the spacers today from rimmers for free .. not happy with them !! :-/I said in the e-mail that i needed ones of 10mm .. So maybe buy some from ebay (the ones that gaz said) getting sick of it all ! Normally next week i get the studs , hope they are right . :oChin up Wim...they are only wheels and will be worth it, you have been bombarded with info and opinions, you need a break from the wheel issues...find a nice electrical project that you can do for a change of thought..works for me.. ! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
npanne Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 uksnatcher wrote:Chin up Wim...they are only wheels and will be worth it, you have been bombarded with info and opinions, you need a break from the wheel issues...find a nice electrical project that you can do for a change of thought..works for me.. ! :) There's nothing like a nice electrical project to get think thinking positive.....and negative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 npanne wrote:There's nothing like a nice electrical project to get think thinking positive.....and negative.Don't have a electrical project right now .. :-/Still need to find another job also :-/ As electrician ! ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 Just got a spacer installed on 1 side .. like i was thinking .. no good ! Then put another 5mm spacer (so 2 spacers of 5mm) and that seems right ! Just don't like that you see the spacers sitting ( they are also illegal for the mot here :-/ ) So when i get the new ones i will paint them black so they don't stand out to much ;)And with the 10mm spacer i could just get the nut on ! But it was only for testing now so ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 And i'm not going to send a mail back to rimmers .. i'm sick of it !! :Bjust going to buy other spacers from 10mm (the ones that gaz said ) ; They cost 8 pounds each and he ask's 7 pounds shipment to belgium :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanD Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Wim,I have these wheels, and had to put 10mm spacers on and long wheel nuts (from canleys).My wheels came from Moss and they had no clue at all about the offset problem. VERY annoying.However the longer studs and spacers seem fine, and they look great and drive well. I also had to shave a mm off the corner of the top arm to stop rubbing at full lock.Keep at it, it's worth it in the end...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 BrendanD wrote:Wim,I have these wheels, and had to put 10mm spacers on and long wheel nuts (from canleys).My wheels came from Moss and they had no clue at all about the offset problem. VERY annoying.However the longer studs and spacers seem fine, and they look great and drive well. I also had to shave a mm off the corner of the top arm to stop rubbing at full lock.Keep at it, it's worth it in the end......thanks !!!! I was scared that on full lock they still should touch. So i also thought i needed to shave a small bit of the upper suspension arms .. The wheels look great , so hoping very much i can use them . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 They just suit my car i find ! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docman Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Agreed, they look great, but all this talk about changing studs and lugnuts has me a bit perplexed.I have installed a new set of 6 X 14 Minators with the nuts provided and I have a good 1/2+ inch of thread in contact with the lugnuts. Is this not enough?That's more thread engaged than when I was running adaptors for my knock-off wires.Someone has mentioned that one upgrade, whilst using my same lugnuts, is to just get longer studs at Jigsaw (or equivalent).Others profess thicker LandRover studs, but will these fit through the wheel lugholes, and what about chamfer?Am I really at that much risk using my existing studs? I tend to think my "shorty" nuts as part of the splined adapters were hand tightened (no clearance for a socket) with an open end wrench for the majority of the car's life.After all, LandRover studs need to carry a lot more weight and be able to withstand significant off-road abuse - just a reality check, here ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 The only thing is that spacers are illegal here in belgium :-/ So hoping they don't see it at the mot ! :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 3106 wrote:I have installed a new set of 6 X 14 Minators with the nuts provided and I have a good 1/2+ inch of thread in contact with the lugnuts. Is this not enough?How many turns do you get on the nut? When i fitted minilites the original studs where suffcient to get the nut on, but not long enough really, i went the Jigsaw route, but the Landy one seems pretty popular.RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom2000 Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 JohnD wrote:Tom,You took a chisel to the wishbones.A mission-critical part, which you weakened in a way that will cause stress to be concentrated at that point.Tom, that is a BODGE.You should be ashamed of yourself.JOhnJohn, I literally had to chisel about 2mm off the metal lip that curves round the very ends. This was also approved by a recommended classic specialist who MOTed the car, granted my post may well have sounded like I was taking tonnes off but it was miniscule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheepy Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Wim, for the keuring, just put the original wheels back on? Then once passed, put on your revolutions again. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 4058 wrote:Wim, for the keuring, just put the original wheels back on? Then once passed, put on your revolutions again. :)First they need to be cleaned up then also :-/, the tyre's are old, so also need new ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docman Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 242 wrote:How many turns do you get on the nut? When i fitted minilites the original studs where suffcient to get the nut on, but not long enough really, i went the Jigsaw route, but the Landy one seems pretty popular.RRLet's see - 3/8 UNF is 24 threads / inch, so I think I'm getting maybe 15 threads engagement with the wheel lugnut (assuming the lugnut is threaded all the way down the conical profile), as opposed to the 12 or so thread engagement with the wire wheel adaptor nuts.Both the Minator and wire wheel adaptor thinnest conical base cross section are less than 1/4 inch, but the adaptor is steel whereas the Minator is cast aluminum.RR - how much aluminum on the Minilites cover stud threads., in other words, are the holes conical cut, and with how thick is the residual material for the lugnuts to press into? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 There was something in the post today from rimmers ! The Longer Dolly sprint studs ;)Going to try 1 side first and put those 2 spacers from 5mm each that i've got from rimmers to test . Hopefully the right spacers will arrive this week , then that's sorted 'again' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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