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Jonny-Jimbo

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Did a bit more playing yesterday - got around an inch or so of movement at the slave, and the pedal is pretty light - but that's compared to how it was when I was also trying to push down the flywheel bolts haha! I junked off the dash rheostat and linked all the wires together with a joiner I made up. I then moved the electric fan switch to where the rheostat was so I could then remove the bracket under the dash. Luckily all the wires were long enough so I didn't have to re-wire anything else.

Whilst I had the dash apart, I also plumbed in the oil pressure gauge and rev counter that I've made a 'pod for' - it needs tidying up, or even making again, but that can be done after RBRR now. I also re-wired the clock which had stopped working. I then made up a loom with back lights built in to illuminate said dials.



After the drivers briefing I checked the hydraulics again and all seemed okay, bolted in the Impreza seats and re-fitted the seatbelts, Then I set the points gap and did the tappets, and fitted the Magnecor leads that Mike Bishop ordered for me.

Annoyingly after doing all of this electrical work (and testing all the lights etc too) the battery was too flat to start the car! I put it on charge last night, so I'll be back there this evening to see if she'll go or not

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Changed the rear brakes yesterday again, being as the old ones were contaminated. I'd never had this happen before, so it was new to me. The rear brakes have been apart more in the last few months than the whole life time of the car I think! I also realised I'd put a return spring on the wrong way round, so the passenger side got done twice. Oh well. Still, new shoes on, adjusted them up again and the brakes work really well now. The handbrake travel is high, and there's not much adjustment left in the cables... Hope the MOT man is okay with high travel, even with it being very effective.

I noticed after taking the old shoes off that they were starting to delaminate in a few placed, possibly due to the soaking in brake fluid?

I then removed the CD player and speaker - in the workshop move I've lost the face plate, and I can't be bothered with buying a new one and wiring it in before RBRR. So, for now, that bit of the dash will remain empty and just be used as nick-nack storage. I was going to build a cubby-box to slot in there, but to be honest, I can't be bothered.

I got the car fired up and I have drive, so I put the car together. This evening I'll drop her onto the wheels and do a quick road-test all being well!

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Right, turns out it's all still to sh!t.

Engine was running like a bag of turds. Well, first of all it wouldn't run at all as it turned out the points were set shut. Re-set them and at least it would fire. Running terribly, so I think the timing is way out.

Also, the clutch is right down on the floor. I'm assuming hydraulics (Low biting point is hydraulics, high biting point is clutch wear), Had a word with Dave (davidb5964 lives two doors down from me - helpful!) and I hear that the Lockheed master cylinders are known for breaking internal springs? That seems like a PITA to fix. Do you have to strip all the internals out, or could I do it by removing the pedal and the pushrod from inside the car?

I guess it would make sense that the internal spring could break, being as I was compressing the clutch against the flywheel bolts?

It's getting close to RBRR, but it's not over until the fat lady sings... and I think she's warming up in the wings now...

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Jon the only thing the spring does is push the piston back to the start point in the bore. If it has not gone back to the start (broken spring or sticking piston) then you only get a partial stroke. Not familiar with 2000s but remove the clevis pin on the pedal, undo retaining bolts of the master cylinder and pull it away and have a look. But it may be harder in a 2000 i dont know.
Dave

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My old PI used to suffer from loss of clutch when hot, as a result of the return spring problem. The fix was to make sure the return spring on the pedal was still fitted! The one in the master cylinder is... pathetic, and the weight of the pedal is enough to prevent the cylinder re-filling with fluid.

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Yeah, fair point Colin. I have one of those mini-honing stones, so if I have the master cylinder off it may be a good ideal to get ti off properly and clean it up.

I've ordered a seal kit and new spring from Chris Witor - requested he posted it ASAP, and I got an email a few minutes later saying it had been shipped 1st class. Hopefully that means I'll have it by the weekend if not before.

I was thinking about that too Colin - when I build my estate up, I'm considering using other masters with remote reservoirs. That car will not be original, so it doesn't matter to me.

Dave, the 2000 is fantastic, because the slave cylinder bolts onto a bracket, which is bolted to the engine back plate. But, due to the way it bolts on, you have to remove the bracket, and not the cylinder. Why they did it that way is beyond me.

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Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo
Also, the clutch is right down on the floor. I'm assuming hydraulics (Low biting point is hydraulics, high biting point is clutch wear), Had a word with Dave (davidb5964 lives two doors down from me - helpful!) and I hear that the Lockheed master cylinders are known for breaking internal springs? That seems like a PITA to fix. Do you have to strip all the internals out, or could I do it by removing the pedal and the pushrod from inside the car?


Jon do NOT assume that.

I had precisely the same problems with Woodie - clutch only bit right at the bottom and very heavy but all the hydraulics were nearly new,  Gordon and I were planning to get the gearbox out but when Andrew (Newman) came on board the Vurest uv Dean Vlyers, as he has a full car repair business and a lift and has decades of experience, he offered to take responsibility for sorting the problem out.

When he dropped the box what he found was an absolute horror - just about all the mechanics we fooked!
The cross shaft pin had sheered and rotated slightly but a small bit of the sheared portion was sticking up and locking the cross shaft to the fork arm.  This mean it had rotated giving some of the extra travel.
The fork itself was worn so that the thrust bearing carrier was deeper into the fork recesses than it should have been.  More extra travel.
The centre of the plate with thin 'blades' linking the main part of the plate with the friction material to the centre spline - all but one of these 'blades' had broken.
It meant that I had to raid my stores and dig out replacements and take them to him and then Andrew put it all back together.

Mind you after Andrew's gentle touch - if you want an experience engineer to do any work on a car and you live near Banbury he is to be highly recommended - the clutch is a joy to use.

MUT

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Hi Ted,

I know the mechanicals are, or should be good. Clutch wasn't badly worn at all, and whilst I had the box out I had the cross shaft etc out for cleaning up and inspection and it was all okay. I fitted a new tapered bolt and lockwired it too.

As the pedal doesn't feel right I'm 99% sure this is still a hydraulic issue.

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I agree John, sounds like it just hasn't bled right. I used to hate bleeding mine but thought it was just me!
Something the guys said before- using a big syringe and injecting fluid up through the slave cylinder sounds like a great idea to me. I will definitely try that one as it lets the air flow up where it naturally wants to go anyway. Maybe its worth giving that a go instead of the traditional way and see what you get.
Cheers

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Clutch is sorted - it's got a hefty 'shove' half way through the travel, which seems to be the the diaphragm. I had Karl Dandridge down again, and having another pair of hands to bleed the clutch was very helpful (plus he knows his onions far more than I do). We just bled it out a bit more, and the biting point is now roughly mid-way and more progressive. Ideal.

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Haha, normally i would have done Dave, but it was just a cuppa tea.

It's at the MOT garage now. It's not quite right still, and the fuel pump is showing odd behaviour - the fuel level drops with air bubbles rising inside, but for the life of me I can't see where from. I really hope it's not another busted diaphragm filling the sump with petrol again. That'll be 10L of Millers finest chucked away with a total of 20 miles on it then

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