Engine knock on start up :-(

[molten]

Hi All

I rebuilt the engine with all new parts and it has in the last week developed a 'knock' as it first cranck up. Only last a second until oil is pumped round then is ok.


Got oil cooler on too but oil level is ok.

Any idea what it can be?

[LouisW]

Before you panic, are you sure you tightened all bolts around the manifolds and carbs? Could be as simple as that knocking against the engine block. You sure your rocker covers tight on aswell?

I'd check your rockers for wear and the gaps as they may cause knocks.

Hope it's something simples!

[Alex]

Did you ave the crank reground or just replace the bearings?

[lancepar]

1300???????
Could be pressure relief valve sticking/sticky, take it to pieces and clean/free it.
8)

[GT6 M]

Hi Scott. Standard T 4/6 engine nok on start up.
especially if its been stan,n for a while,

Did ye turn it over with plugs oot first, to build press up
or turn oil pump with drill first,!!!

should be oknoo filters full up, but it will still nok.
they all doo.

M

[molten]

7112 wrote:

Before you panic, are you sure you tightened all bolts around the manifolds and carbs? Could be as simple as that knocking against the engine block. You sure your rocker covers tight on aswell?

I'd check your rockers for wear and the gaps as they may cause knocks.

Hope it's something simples!

Rockers were set correctly on rebuild. But granted - they should be check again now.

[molten]

Alex wrote:

Did you ave the crank reground or just replace the bearings?

Hi Alex
Crank reground and new shells.

[molten]

796 wrote:

Hi Scott. Standard T 4/6 engine nok on start up.
especially if its been stan,n for a while,

Did ye turn it over with plugs oot first, to build press up
or turn oil pump with drill first,!!!

should be oknoo filters full up, but it will still nok.
they all doo.

M

Hi Marcus

No, didn't turn over with plugs out first..Should I have done?

Didn't turn oil pump with drill first either. Will that make any difference if done now as I presume you are referring to priming the pump?

[Nick Moore]

A lot of oil filters on Triumphs drain overnight, meaning that the filter has to refill when you start the engine before the bearings see any oil. Mine's always done that, so I spin the engine over for a few seconds with no choke to pump some oil into the filter before starting the engine.

Just don't rev it until the oil light goes out!

[molten]

Nick_Moore wrote:

A lot of oil filters on Triumphs drain overnight, meaning that the filter has to refill when you start the engine before the bearings see any oil. Mine's always done that, so I spin the engine over for a few seconds with no choke to pump some oil into the filter before starting the engine.

Just don't rev it until the oil light goes out!

Thanks Nick

[GT6 M]

Scott , turn new , or if engine stood alang , time  then  plugs oot, as it dont put pressure on the bearings.
IE compression / power stroke

Turning oil drive before hand, is to not only prime pump, but to get oil to all bits, With oot engine being turned.

A bit of 1/2 bar with slot in end to fit into drive, and powered by a drill.
noo ye no for next time. ;)

M

[Alex]

Any idea which oil filter you have fitted?
I once fitted a halfords filter and it used to drain very quickly,the fram I use now doesn't and I get no noise on start up.

[junkuser]

What was done in the overhaul?

Things like piston slap or crank end float could cause what you describe, depends on whether these clearances were set to within standard tolerances.  

Sounds like there are excess tolerances somewhere.

On start up the pistons expand quite quickly and diminish slap noise.

Increased oil will quieten end float knock if not too bad.

Hopefully it is not bearings.  

[CHRIS211083]

Molten,
           Nick moore has hit the nail on the head I think.What I did was buy a oil filter adaptor and fitted K&N oil filters. They are top quality, have a larger capacity but more importantly they have a proper anti leak back seal. The adapter is a couple of quid, all it does is screws into the threads from the engine side but has larger threads for the filter.

Chris.
          

[JensH]

I did what Chris did. New engine +20, reground etc.
No knocks or rocks here :-)

[molten]

2402 wrote:

Molten,
           Nick moore has hit the nail on the head I think.What I did was buy a oil filter adaptor and fitted K&N oil filters. They are top quality, have a larger capacity but more importantly they have a proper anti leak back seal. The adapter is a couple of quid, all it does is screws into the threads from the engine side but has larger threads for the filter.

Chris.
          

Hey Chris

Where can I purchase these items you used fella?
Will adapter still fit with thermostatic sandwich plate?

Thanks Mate

[Velocita Rosso]

The Fram filters have the non drain flaps and can be obtained from any good stockist
We pay around £2.20 and mine is on a sandwich plate for the cooler

[uksnatcher]

For those with the oil cooler sandwich plate (like me) fitted, i am considering one of these from Moss or Canleys........i cant find one cheaper tho...

Part Number TT9401
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=18322&SortOrder=2
http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?ptno=TT9401

'Non-return adapter for the Spitfire' so i assume its a 5/8 male - 3/4 male thread that keeps the oil in the filter IE K&N or Ford filters with the 3/4 thread?

I am currently using a 5/8 female - 5/8 male Mocal adapter with the thermo sandwich plate with no non return valve just the semi-useless non return oil system in the oil filter.
(No offence ment Mike, but the 5/8 Spitty Fram filters like most with the anti drain rubber seal loose all the oil overnight...nice and cheap tho ;) )

Will the current 5/8 male- 5/8 male original oil filter adapter unscrew from the engine block as its bloomin tight in mine and dont want to force it if it isnt supposed to come out?

Gaz

[molten]

michael_charlton wrote:

The Fram filters have the non drain flaps and can be obtained from any good stockist
We pay around £2.20 and mine is on a sandwich plate for the cooler

That seems like a cheap price. Where do you get them from?

[Alex]

uksnatcher wrote:

Will the current 5/8 male- 5/8 male original oil filter adapter unscrew from the engine block as its bloomin tight in mine and dont want to force it if it isnt supposed to come out?

Gaz

Gaz that definitely comes out.... Mine caused me a few issues doing just that!

[Clive]

I would be interested in a 5/8 to 3/4 adapter. Means you can use vw, ford and a host of other filters. Around here I acn't buy a 5/8 filter at all. well, I had the last one from the motor factors a few weeks ago. Nobody else keeps them :(

[CHRIS211083]

2597 wrote:

Hey Chris

Where can I purchase these items you used fella?
Will adapter still fit with thermostatic sandwich plate?

Thanks Mate

Call mocal direct and tell them you want to run there sandwich plate with a better filter the is 3/4 and the block is 5/8. Simples!!!
They will have these in stock i think.

Chris.

[Velocita Rosso]

2597 wrote:

That seems like a cheap price. Where do you get them from?

We have an account with a local factor and get fantastic discounts

[uksnatcher]

Alex wrote:

Gaz that definitely comes out.... Mine caused me a few issues doing just that!

Thanks Alex, so what issues mate?

Is it a simple straight 5/8 unf r/h thread or is it bonded/loctite bound from factory? Any suggestions on extracting it from the block, couple of nuts method?

[Alex]

You don't want it coming out of the block like mine did ;D
I've locktite mine in now but seem to remember it was just a normal r/h thread......
Mine kept coming loose with the oil filter and raking everywhere.