Raider Posted September 17, 2006 Author Share Posted September 17, 2006 Just had a phone call from Paul Darbyshire - he's on his way over to lend a hand.That's just the kind of morale booster I needed - it's getting a long hard slog now. The exhaust manifold wouldn't come off until I removed the starter motor fitted yesterday ::). That took some doing but now it's off and the Sprint version lodged in - anyway back to it :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted September 17, 2006 Author Share Posted September 17, 2006 End of play day 3 - still not running :'( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 poo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Good luck tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 As a last minute bodge job jou can drill a hole in the stud remains and tap M6 thread in it . An M6 bolt shoud be strong enough to take the load of a small part of the manifold ... for a few days ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Still ... all quite on the western front ::) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted September 18, 2006 Author Share Posted September 18, 2006 Finshed for the day at 7PM.Short story is - engine will turn over, no sign of firing, I'm off for a pizza and a couple of beers.There will be an update on my blog when I have recovered a bit :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Your 9/10ths there! top work all you need are Compressionfuelsparkand shes away! well done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toledo Man Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 Martin, don't forget to check everything and assume nothing. Start with the ignition and then move on to the fuel. Remember, we assumed that the clutch plate was lined up correctly and when we checked (after a cup of tea) it wasn't! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 I reckon it's the ignition side - I can smell petrol when it's cranked over a few times!I am going to try and leave well alone today tho - I deserve a day off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 How did you get the broken stud out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumpith Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 He didn't! Hopefully there are enough bolts on the manifold to keep a nice tight seal...Interesting idea about putting a nut on if there's enough thread left, but I'll let Martin respond to that one - not sure if there is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 It will not seal- it needs to be replaced- remember you are dealing with a gas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumpith Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 Could that be why she won't start then, Tim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 It wont help if its leaking masivley but engines will run roughly with leaks to prove it pull the vac pipe to your servo off -engine will still run just very lean! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 with the stud I would now grind it flat to the surface so you can get a nice centre punch on it,centre punch it and drill it out either heli coil it or if you are lucky you might get away with not damaging the threads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 Block and tape up those ports to prevent swarf going in as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 Quote:It will not seal- it needs to be replaced- remember you are dealing with a gas!I have just checked - there are 6 bolts holding on a TR7 inlet manifold but 10 on a Sprint :o Surely the other 9 have a good chance of sealing it ??)Quote:with the stud I would now grind it flat to the surface so you can get a nice centre punch on it,centre punch it and drill it out either heli coil it or if you are lucky you might get away with not damaging the threadsI can do that OK in due course as it is actually now "within" the thickness of the inlet manifold if you follow my meaning.Anyway, Rumpith and I may take a quick look this evening to see if there's a spark at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 An hour on the car this evening found the following.There's definitely fuel through as a hose split on the front carb and petrol sprayed out ;DThere isn't a spark at the plugs tho :-/.Tried a brand new plug, no difference.Swapped leads and dizzy cap over from the spare TR7 Sprint - no differenceThat surely means no power reaching the distributor - then I noticed the spare TR7 had different connections at the coil so I put BRP to the same configuration and NO DIFFERENCE :'(How are other TR7s/Sprints wired up at the coil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 If you put a plug directly on the end of a lead from the coil, does it spark as you flick the points?? Or if you have an optical transponder, as you block/clear the sensor.Not sure how you would test a magnetic one.Is the engine earth fitted??Might be worth electrically connecting up the original (or a spare) dissy and spinning the shaft if you can, to watch multiple sparks.Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 The connections from the distributor to the coil should be the same for a TR7 / Sprint.Very early Dolomite 1850's didn't have a ballast wire but a ballast resistor mounted to the coil . But even then you do get a spark.Get the multimeter out and check for breakage in the wires and or bad connections(ouside AND inside the distributor). Wriggle the wires and connections while your measuring the resistance. If it remains constant it should be OK, otherwise something's wrong.What's inside the ditributor, points or something more sophisticated. Are the points functioning properly? Is the condensor OK? Are the connectors at the points OK? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 I ran electronic ignition on the TR7 so I am unsure about the connections for the Sprint engine which is on points.The LT lead from the dizzy for example, does it go to the -ve side of the coil?What other wires connect to the coil? And what are the double wires into one female spade connector coming out of the loom in this area for? I thought this was the ballast resist wire and connected to the dizzy LT lead ??) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 Right, lets make it simple.Is the coil you are using a 6V (ballast resistor) coil or a 12V one ?Do you have a 12V coil available ?Best to do this test with a 12V coil, but a 6V one will do if necessary.Take the coil you have and bolt it to the car body, ensuring a good earth.Connect the HT lead between the coil and the dizzy.Make sure that there are no connections to the two terminals on the coil.Connect a wire from the +ve (12V) terminal of the battery to one of the terminals on the coil.If they are marked +ve and -ve on the coil you are using, connect to the +ve, but it doesn't really matter for this experiment.Connect another wire between the OTHER terminal on the coil and the points.Crank the engine and you should get a spark.If you don't, then there is an open circuit in one of the wires, the distributor or the coil.Make sure the firing order is set correctly, and connect the HT leads to the sparkplugs.If the timing is correct, the engine should start and run when you crank the engine.If all this works, then you need to check out the old wiring in the car to find where the failure is.There is no credible reason for this experiment to fail unless one of the components is faulty - it is the simplest of tests, it is what a theif would do to start your car.You can't get a simpler ignition circuit - this is why an imobiliser is a waste of time on our old cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 White/Slate LT-lead from dizzy goes to the negative side of the coil and goes from dizzy to the tachoThere should be a White/Yellow LT-wire connected to the positive side of the coil.Ballast wire goes over the ignition relay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 Thanks for the advice chaps.Ignition relay?White/slate from the dizzy - no, there isn't one. There is a white/slate wire from the loom which is connected to the -ve side of the coil.There's a wire from the condenser out of the dizzy tho which I think needs to go to the -ve side of the coil.Anyway, off to work now but I'll try again tonight and also get a picture to post here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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