Quickdraw Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 So it looks like my wheel bearings are knackered. Does anybody know if the £15 wheel bearing kits off eBay are any good??Is that the going rate or should I be spending more? Also, is it possible to fit them without a hydraulic press? Cheers guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6DavidMK1 Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Which car is it for Vitesse or Herald think you will find most Specialist stock wheel bearing kits cheaper than fleabay!......and you don't need a press to do them.David. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quickdraw Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 It's a 1971 herald 13/60. Is there anywhere you would suggest. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 James Paddock usually pretty good but now charging for delivery I wonder if your bearings have been run too tight? They should always be slightly loose which upsets most MOT testers but is necessary to allow for thermal expansion in operation.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver clasper Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 HiI replaced a front wheel bearing on Vitesse a couple of years ago from canley classics. Done about 6000 miles. About a tenner. Some say, have problems with some cheap bearings lasting a few hundred miles?. I Had to nip it up a couple of times in that period of time. One thing discussed on Club Triumph threads is the felty washer supplied with bearing. apparently it's better to re-use old one if ok as helps with not having to make a lot of future adjustments.Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmetalhead82 Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Ive had that problem with the new felts, wish i had used the old ones. My bearings came from Rimmers a bit expensive at £29 a side i thought. The outer tracks knocked out of the hubs easily with a hammer and a punch. A tip for knocking the new ones in is to grind the outside surface of a pair of the old tracks until they are a loose fit in the hub then use the old track to knock the new track in, a lot better than trying to use a punch on the narrow track edge, good luck,Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty71 Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 i have had bearings made in India. Rubbish!! they are not harden correctly, and have soft bearing surface. buy branded bearing 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 The end float spec is 0.002 to 0.008" thats hand nipmthe nut and back of one flat mabe twothere are two holes in the stub to give fine adjustmentthere must be some float or you will quickly sieze the outer bearing to the stub axle and thats an expensive mistakethe split pin is 3mm 1/8" diameterRecheck the float after a few miles after refitting brgs and felts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 If you can get Timken bearings they're pretty well regarded. You don't have to buy bearings from a parts supplier. You can buy bearings very cheaply online if you have the dimensions. I bought new wheel and headstock bearings (SKF brand) for one of my motorbikes, and the total for the 6 bearings came to less than the cost of one set of front bearings from an eBay supplier selling cheap rubbish.Shop around, but try to ensure quality if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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