Wolverine27 Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 I am replacing the broken and duff japanese sports alternator on my GT6 for a new original ( larger and heavier) one, any tips before i tackle this on the weekend.i think i have all the new mounting brackets etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 From what I can see of your garage, from here, i'd say you have. ;DGive us a clue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Larger as in dimensions or output?I was messing with my car yesterday and couldn't believe how small the alternator and fuel pump are Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolverine27 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 size not output, it sounds like you dont have the original size as well, as they are more or less double of these japanese sports one, you need special brackets as they are both mounted differently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Is this true??? a denso alternator by any chance?? gone wrong??Most extraordinary. I do mean that, they are a very reliable unit. The modern Lucas recon stuff seems to be very poor in comparison (I had a pukka luca recon die within a fw thousand miles)Saying that, I suspect most recon alternators are not a patch on new OE stuff. I have taken to using OE stuff on my zetec engine, they seem bombproof.Only thing you may need is a large spade connector or block, depending on what the new alternator requires. And a suitable mounting bolt, not rocket science these things. thankfully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 I`d sooner have a higher out put on a reliable alternator .We have CJF Electrics ,63 amps , in comparison to original 35 or 42 ampsThese fit straight on with no adaptation needed.£43.00 exchange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 At what point is a more powerful alternator required?When an alarm and/or immobiliser is fitted?When a stereo is installed?Etc..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2009poolesparky Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 A "standard" automotive or marine alternator is designed to produce a certain amount of power when the engine of the vehicle or vessel for which it is designed is idling. This is the amount of power that the vehicle needs for its basic onboard equipment -- engine ignition/controls, fuel pumps, instrumentation, lights, climate control systems, etc. This type of alternator is usual identified by the maximum amount of power that it can produce when the engine is operating at high speed -- however, it cannot produce this amount of power for more than a few minutes without overheating and potential damage. The most power that such an alternator can be expected to provide continuously is about 1/2 the maximum rated output power -- possibly as much as 2/3 for a conventional "heavy duty" design.Special design alternators which can produce their full rated output continuously are available.Except in cases where only a little more charging current is required to handle, for example, a few extra lights for trailer towing, or a bit more output to help get a quicker charge during winter months (when a lot of your driving is done at slow engine speeds in icy/wet conditions), installing a high output alternator may be quite a bit more complicated that it was in the 1960's, 1970's, or 1980's when most cars were equipped with a single size alternator with a case that was large enough so that it could be easily rebuilt, or replaced, with an alternator that looked identical, but produced as much as double the current provided by the vehicle's original alternator.Modern alternators are a much different prospect. Typically, for a given application (vehicle/engine), the alternator output is designed to exactly meet the vehicle's electrical needs when operating at low engine speeds and the alternator is built to be as physically small and light as possible (often making cooling under high load conditions very difficult) to help the manufacturer achieve better vehicle fuel economy. Often, with these alternators, power produced at low engine speeds is kept relatively low (or even turned off) to reduce the load on the engine, again to achieve better fuel economy. With the addition of computer controls in vehicles and on vehicle engines, alternators also were changed to act as protective devices for the installed computer systems -- further limiting their maximum charging capacity and making it even more difficult to rebuild or replace them with non-stock higher amp units. Also, in many cases, alternators also became active participants in the engine's computerized electrical controls systems. In fact, their interaction with the vehicle electrical system is so critical that, in most cases, replacement of a stock alternator with one that is not supplied by the vehicle/engine manufacturer will void the vehicle warranty and may also make the vehicle impossible to service with factory diagnostic equipment!Haha sorry about the essay, but now you know :PAlex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Thanks AlexSo, You think I should fit a larger alternator? ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2009poolesparky Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 well not a necessitation , other than the standard stuff on your car what else do you have fitted and what size battery do you have?Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Battery?!?I'm a long way off needing a battery :o :B :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 In all seriousness.....Car will remain standard to begin with, then I'll add fuel injection and electronic ignition, as well as an alarm and immobiliser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 My car seems to cope ok with a standard battery, and a 45A Lucas alternator. I currently throw at it: pair of heated seats, halogen headlights (with relays), cd player with 4 speakers, Megajolt, alarm + immobiliser, extra footwell lighting, central locking, electric fan, electric aerial and probably something else electrical that I've forgotten.An electric fuel pump + injection or spotlights might push it over the edge, but until I have reason to change it, I don't see a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 I want to attach a Tesla coil to my front bumper so that I can electrocute people who are driving slowly in front of me. Maybe this large, occasional load would best use a separate, additional alternator driven by a clutched pulley like an air conditioning compressor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 This guy's way ahead of you!http://tesladownunder.com/teslacoilmini.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2009poolesparky Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 haha no if your battery is man enough then the standard alternator should be up to the job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pom Down Under Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 That's got to be the ultimate theft deterent! ??) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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