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Matt306

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Having done RBRR and found the braking coming off Dartmoor with bargain basement pads slightly 'ropey' I have ordered some Greenstuff pads. EBC list these as part number DP2114 https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/triumph/herald-13-60/1.3-1967-1971/13554

Carpart4less with the weekend12 code allowed me to get these ordered and delivered for a shade over £25 which is the cheapest i have found. Just putting it out there for sharing.

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Quote, "for a shade over £25 which is the cheapest i have found"

Matt, this is brakes, mission critical kit.     And you're going for the cheapest you can find, even when previously you found "the braking coming off Dartmoor with bargain basement pads slightly 'ropey'"
Don't you think that may have had a message for you?
Hope you read the code before you go on the 10CR - the decents across the Alps are a bit steeper than Dartmoor!

John

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He means the cheapest price for those pads... Bloody hell.

Anyway, hope you like them. Same as Nick, I wasn't a fan near ten years ago. They used to work best with drilled or slotted discs as they're very gassy. No experience since the compound change.

I'd also consider replacing your brake fluid with better quality. It might make a marked improvement.

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Different type of car, but I had green stuffs in my 540 (So twice the weight and three times the power of a Herald), and I didn't get on with them. They came with the car when I bought it, but I didn't truly like them I have to say. Had no real bite or feel. Decided to try moving to Red Stuff's and they were much better. Initial bite is good without being snatchy. Progressive, and didn't overheat. They're still in the car after 3 years being daily driven, AND have done 200 laps of Mallory Park on a track day, 5 laps of the Nurburgring and the CT Autosolo... although I didn't use them a huge amount on that.

HOWEVER, I have green stuffs in my Vitesse and they're really good...

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Quoted from ferny
He means the cheapest price for those pads... Bloody hell.

Anyway, hope you like them. Same as Nick, I wasn't a fan near ten years ago. They used to work best with drilled or slotted discs as they're very gassy. No experience since the compound change.

I'd also consider replacing your brake fluid with better quality. It might make a marked improvement.


Thanks Ferny... Yes I am upgrading to better quality pads (hopefully) but hopefully at the cheapest price and thought I would share my find.

The bargain basement pads have been fine for everyday use, I only found them a problem coming off Dartmoor. All the components are new with stainless steel pistons and pipes and new copper pipes with new caliper seals. So the car stops straight and true , very well in fact for 50 year old tech. So I haven't considered I scrimped on critical components.

What fluid do you recommend Ferny I have standard fluid at the mo.

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£25 for a set of brake pads IS bargain basement!

All the brake material manufacturers offer a range based on ther working temperature.
Standard road material works well when cold, but if used hard and heated beyond its working range will fade and wear quickly.
A hotter material may not work as well when you brake at the bottom of the hill outside your house, or in slow moving traffic, but will not get ropey coming down off Dartmoor!
Then there is 'race' material, that will not fade if raced down an Alpine pass, but will make you pushh the brake pedal through the bulkhead to stop when cold.
That's all that green, red, yellow, blue stuff is.
OR, for Mintex 1144,1155,1166.  A 1177 is alleged to exist, but never seen it!

Make a decison on that basis, not price and always buy a branded brake pad, not some Fu Kyu Chinese knock-off.
John

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For what I use my Herald for they are fine... It's a stuffing Herald if it gets to 80 it's a miracle...I could try ceramic brakes but I think that would be a waste for a 60hp car. Even with bargain basement pads from Canleys I've found fine for everyday use. I leave a decent braking distance respecting the car and conditions.
I based my decision on use of car and cost...

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I wouldn't use a full on competition pad in a road car as when cold they are not the best. Might get away with a Mintex 1144 but anything else will probably only work best when warmed up correctly. I don't rate any EBC as "competition" material, more a fast road pad, though they may be better these days it's a while since I tried them.

remember if fitting proper competition pads follow the correct bedding in procedure to get the best out of them, which can seem a little extreme. If you do want decent competition pads can't go far wrong with the Pagid range or the Mintex F range or the Ferodo DS2500 or DS3000. Pads from these companies are not cheap but by golly they work, to give you an idea of costs I was paying £160 ish per set of Pagid "blue" for my rally Nova that was on Astra front brakes.

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Agree with most statements above really - the brake pads need to be suited to what your driving is, and really, it might be worth having two sets of pads in use to swap over. Standard road pads for most of the driving, then if you know you're going to be doing a lot of hard stops (like driving through the mountains etc) then consider swapping them. It's not like it's a hard job to swap pads on our cars!

As for performance, we use Carbon Lorraine pads on the BMW Touring Cars, which would also fit the Herald and Vitesse type calipers (two different pads), but race pads on the road would be a terrible idea.

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I will be controversial here. I use old stock asbestos pads that seem very capable everywhere, and lasting well.

(and despite what people say, there is very little health risk. Just think, there was not a trail of death left by every car from the early 1900's right up until they where phased out in the 1990's, or 2004 for pre 73 vehicles. As to asbestos related lung diseases, truly horrible, there is only a very slightly increased risk to those who worked long term as brake technicians, ie all day every day comparerd to the general population. take sensible precautions and the risk approaches zero.)

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Sorry, bit of thread drift.

What I should have said is that the old asbestos pads had a better set of properties than most modern pads. Greenstuff may well be a good choice, but I guess you won't know until the passes! The set of greenstuff I had on my spit seemed OK, better I think than the "white box" type but did create a lot of dust, That was 10 years ago though, things may have changed.

As to brake fluid, I have been using Pagid dot 4 fluid from euro car parts (same company as carparts4less!) and I have no complaints. Fresh fluid is the answer I reckon. And take a new bottle with you, just in case you boil the fluid!

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Quoted from cliftyhanger
I will be controversial here. I use old stock asbestos pads that seem very capable everywhere, and lasting well.

(and despite what people say, there is very little health risk. Just think, there was not a trail of death left by every car from the early 1900's right up until they where phased out in the 1990's, or 2004 for pre 73 vehicles. As to asbestos related lung diseases, truly horrible, there is only a very slightly increased risk to those who worked long term as brake technicians, ie all day every day comparerd to the general population. take sensible precautions and the risk approaches zero.)


Oii!!! Stop talking so much common sence!! It'll never catch on! >

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Quoted from Matt306


Thanks Ferny... Yes I am upgrading to better quality pads (hopefully) but hopefully at the cheapest price and thought I would share my find.

The bargain basement pads have been fine for everyday use, I only found them a problem coming off Dartmoor. All the components are new with stainless steel pistons and pipes and new copper pipes with new caliper seals. So the car stops straight and true , very well in fact for 50 year old tech. So I haven't considered I scrimped on critical components.

What fluid do you recommend Ferny I have standard fluid at the mo.


I really cant see how a 'better quality' fluid is going to change braking performance. All liquids are virtually incompressable so as long as yours isnt boiling when braking a change isnt going to make much difference. Now moisture contamination, corrosion and cleanliness is another matter but theyre controlled by having regular changes of the fluid.....

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Apologies, for some reason I thought you were doing the 10CR (hence the passes comment)
You padchoice is probably correct then for what you want. ie  better than the std pads, but nothing too arduous..

(FWIW I used the code you posted to buy some antifreeze and spare oil filters, your efforts were not wasted! Thank you)

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Just for clarity it was only once I felt the brakes needed an upgrade that was on the RBRR and that was only once on the whole trip when coming off Dartmoor. When the brakes cooled off they were fine again.

Ferny suggested better fluid, I use bog standard stuff clean and new like the rest of the components. Nice firm feel on the pedal.


Anyway if they are rubbish I'll let you all know.

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have had greenstuff fitted for over 20years now,only time they gassed up was at a brands track day in blistering heat.mind i'm using large vented discs and bigger calipers in a 2500spit so not a very good comparison.
I would rather they worked from cold when you need them in an emergency for the trade off of the unlikely event of them fading on Dartmoor or some such place.
tried ferodo ds2500s' once,orrible pads for the road/fast road,dusted to b*ggery,shredded the discs and squealed like a kicked pig,mind you the bite was good,picking my teeth out the dash.

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Quoted from JohnD
Emotive!?  

You shared your opinion of " bargain basement" brake pads, and I shared mine!
Never suggested anyone bought race pads, only what suited their driving.

Ifyoumust use EBC, trh their pad type selection questionnaire: https://ebcbrakes.com/ebc-brake-pad-selector-tool/

John


I can't use it as the BHP selection only goes as low as 60

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