Adrianb Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 Hi just acquired 1968 Herald 1360 convertible which has been in a front garden since 1995 rotting away it would not look out of place in the flint stones! Acomplete restoration is required so we thought we would remove the body from the chassis so as to access the chassis then start rebuilding.Is there any instruction procedure to follow so we don’t struggle too much. Just to make the project interesting I have just been registered severely sight impaired so not too much small print many thanks Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Welcome to the forum, you will hopefully find it a very useful resource over the coming months. Plenty of very experienced people on here who should be able to help. Try the proper workshop manual. (WSM) Downloads here: http://vitessesteve.co.uk/ You can print or view at whatever size you like! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Welcome to the forum, you will be able to get answers to every question you have and even questions you don't ask! Any chance of a few photos of your project as it is now, I'm sure they would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrianb Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 gooday to you all hope you are all staying safe. here are a few of the first pictures of the restoration project.i will give you a few hours to stop laughing.we have removed the doors bonnet wheels and interior and hav managed to easly turn the engine over so maybe some hope.im starting with stripping it down to the chassis then rebuilding then dealing with the engine.i am aware that i need to do something with the cylinder head as the last time it run was 1995 before unleaded petrol was introduced.luckily i do have a little experience of triumphs as my dad had a 1971 triumph 1300 and a dolomite sprint and i had a1964 spitfire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Hi, you are indeed a brave man! Don't add the head to your list of worries though as it'll run fine on unleaded and you can use an additive if, one day, your going to do a lot of long distance high speed driving.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 For a car that has been in a garden for 25 years it is in very good condition, there are ones that have been on the road in last year or so that are worse. just clean the engine and change the oil, don’t worry about doing anythinG to it.Well not until you have driven the car. Well someone driven it, you did mention your own eyesight is not quite so good now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrianb Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 As my eye sight is poor i can put everything back on and find a castle 30 miles away and check it out I will cable type my white stick to the front so I can socially distance as well!i will have a go see what happens Big Dom rules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anumator Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 Hi Adrian , The body should come off easily ,with just kick or two - then start by replacing whats left of the chassis with a newly restored one , then replace the body tub , the bulkhead and the bonnet and replace the engine.I would also suggest new valances and a new soft top , you could have it done in a month ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrianb Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Many thanks i m now getting a basic plan together all I need now is to convince the bank off wife it’s a good idea I mean investment! I tube is helping a lot now and I have been told by my daughter to have it ready for next april 23 st grarhrs day for our local village fete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 If you really are considering removing the body you'll need to think about reinforcing the door openings and other bits to prevent the whole lot collapsing in a pile at your feet. Sorry if I sound negative but you're opening the door for a lot of grief. Have you thought about trying to find another body. Good luck with whatever you do. Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve AKA vitessesteve Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 I would try to add some new metal or bracing to the bodywork before removing it from the chassis. If both the body and chassis are rusty to the point of missing important reference points you need to proceed carefully. You need to think with the body removed how will you ensure the out riggers go back in the correct place? How will you get the wings repairs to line up off the frame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thora Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 Hi i have removed the body of a 13/60 convertible what ever you do don't remove it before you sort the chassis especially if you need to replace the rear body hanger as you will have no datum to work from as i found out the hard way . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 there are some good information videos in U tube to be seen. A complete vitesse restauration for example https://youtu.be/C-mqvxSuLJk?list=PLj9GWtoWPbyAxXxbp5PPrwKA9HpJLX4BC i found some great tips here esp with the doors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrianb Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 Many thanks please keep the tips and hints coming as every little little helps thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 there are dimensional chassis drawings in the workshop manuals the body comes off in two parts the separation is the bolted seam under the seats two people can lift the bulkhead or the rear quite easily no need to support door apertures as when separated there is no structure needing support apart from rotten bits hanging off . dont forget to disconnect any seat belts and the handbrake cables dont forget the two mounts in the boot diff mount x member you need disconnect or break/split the tail harness places like the A post base and body mounts will be shot , new floor pans do not have a full pressed finish so the A post and sill needs a lot of forming its not a straight swap panel Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scimher Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 The good news is that there seems to be large areas that have avoided the tinworm, judging by the original paint still in evidence........such as the boot area. All best wishes - it will be a very rewarding & satisfying result, once done.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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