GT6Craig Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 Quote:When i came to start my car this morning, besides the expected hangups due to the freezing weather, shortly after i set off i heard two metallic bangs from the rear of the car!I then drove to my destination (7 miles) without further incident.The back brakes arent great so im hoping they had just frozen on and the clunking was them springing back into position. Does this sound plausible? Its never happened before in the 3 months ive owned the car....Well i think the metallic clunk clunk was a little more than just the brakes - after the car had been sat in the cold again there was a single audible clunk and then a continuous grinding and whining coming from the diff!Its most noticible when i have the clutch dipped or take my foot off the accelerator.The car drives fine but the noise makes me cringe and , ive checked the oil level in the diff and its full. Is it shot or can it be fixed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 Have you looked at the UJ's? worth checking prior to condeming the diff.If it is the diff then good sh ones should be available for fair money. Otherwise a recon or full rebuild.......Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Craig Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 Does anyone know the type of differential it is, or any other information i might need? Im looking at a replacement from Rimmers - its £350 - ouch :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 You need a diff with a round front flange for the propshaft and 3/8 bolts all round. The prefix letters stamped on the diff indicate its ratio 3.27 KC 3.89 KD, 3.89 are easier to find as they are used on the Vitesse, FD or HC. You can use the diff from a MK4 Spitfire 3.89 FH this all assumes they have not been rebuilt at sometime with a different ratio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Or a nice spit 1500 3.63 ratio. Very good all rounder!A good s/h unit should be well under £100 from a private seller, but make sure it is a good one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piero franchi Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Were in the world are you.I might have one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilnaz Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Sounds like bearings or more likely U/J than anything to do with the differential. If it goes quiet(er) when lifting off (i.e. coasting) then that is quite likely to be a U/J...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 I agree differential noise is usually worse on acceleration, if the noise changes on light conering it is most likely the UJ's or bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Craig Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 Whats the best way to check where the noise is coming from? I sure hope its the U.J's or bearings. You mean the wheel bearings? Or propshaft bearings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 The old-fashioned way is to jack the rear up to get the wheels off the ground, start the car, put it gear to get the wheels turning, then touch your tongue to the driveshaft. Not many people do it that way anymore.You can also put all four corners of the car up on jackstands (much safer than jackstands on one end & wheel chocks on the other), put the transmission in neutral, & start grabbing & turning back & forth by hand the driveshaft & axles to see where the noise & looseness are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiggrr1 Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 rotoflex you beat me to it :)but I'll leave the info anyway,One way to find out where the noise is coming from is to chock the front wheels and jack up one rear wheel and put the car in first or second gear and let the clutch out gently.The raised wheel should spin, if you hear any horrible loud crunching noises it is probably your diff. To state the obvious try to locate where the noise is coming from.If you hear a clicking type of noise it may be a drive shaft u/j or possibly loose rotoflex bolts (if you have rotoflex couplings) or prop u/js.If you hear no noise try it with the other rear wheel raised. The wheel that is not raised must stay in contact with the floor and not turn, this will make the diff work and if it is noisey you will hear it.You can also try with both wheels raised off the floor if the diff makes no noise and then you may locate any bearing or u/j noise.This method is not without it's dangers the front wheels must be unable to move as the car will try to drive forwards due to any drag on the diff you must let the clutch up really gently and it's probably better to have someone in the drivers seat at all times in case the car starts to move they can quickly stand on the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 184 wrote:Does anyone know the type of differential it is, or any other information i might need? Im looking at a replacement from Rimmers - its £350 - ouch :-(Non O/D 3.27O/D 3.89As has been said a 3.63 (Spitfire 1500) can be an improvement for higher top speed over a 3.89. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 UJ's are notoriously difficult to suss out as they are under tension, and only slight play causes ticking. There should be NO movement/play in then, I use a thin bar but it is not foolproof. A shiny ring around the uj cup/circlip can be a clue too.And putting drive though the wheels when jacked up is another helpful pointer, but do be very careful. Not sure about using ones tongue on a driveshaft though :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don cook1 Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 I've had UJs go and found that if they make that much noise then the wear should be obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 GT6_Don wrote:I've had UJs go and found that if they make that much noise then the wear should be obvious.That's what I was thinking. It would seem he'd squirted out some needle bearings already or something like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Craig Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 thanks for the responses guys, ill print out this page tomorrow and on Weds ill follow all your advice and have a closer look. Maybe i wont try the tongue technique though :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booley Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 rotoflex wrote:The old-fashioned way is to jack the rear up to get the wheels off the ground, start the car, put it gear to get the wheels turning, then touch your tongue to the driveshaft. Not many people do it that way anymore.never heard that one before.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 booley wrote:never heard that one before....That might be because very few people who have ever tried it were able to tell anyone about it ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 The sudden clunk sounds odd, but I don't think it'll be your diff. Take the driveshafts out (mk1 same as Heralds? If so it's dead easy) and inspect them. If you've never seen a knackered one before then take it to someone who has. I thought mine were ok until I took them to Dale. I'd killed virtually everything! When he showed me what was wrong and then I saw them in a repaired state it was rather obvious...Take a nose at this, too.http://www.canleyclassics.com/infodatabase.asp?article=noises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Craig Posted December 2, 2008 Author Share Posted December 2, 2008 ok today i attempted to drive to uni when i had a catostrophic failure. A large bang was followed by a massive bang, bang, bang from the rear of the car. It drives but ive left it at the bottom of the road until im home later and can have a proper look.Maybe get it towed to my garage.The clunk clunk, or bang bang whatever it is is loudest when im crawling along - it literally sounds like someone is under the car belting it with a hammer........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiggrr1 Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 Sounds like you may have snapped some teeth off the crown wheel and/or pinion :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 Unbolt the halfshafts from the diff and make sure they are not the problem.Rotate the propshaft and see if there's the kncking.PS does sound like the diff. Think of all the other usefull jobs you can do to the back-end of the car at the same time ;) Lowering block under the spring, trunnion over-haul, checking the U/J's, suspension bushes, copper brake pipes, oh the list is endless.,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 you mention Ice and brakes have you taken a drum off just to check you havnt ripped a frozen brake shoe apart ??? do the cheapo fixes firstthe canley sit gives some basic diff ident and failure clues doe rear end noises http://www.canleyclassics.com/infodatabase.asp Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Craig Posted December 5, 2008 Author Share Posted December 5, 2008 I jacked the car up today and set the engine running. I got under the car and touched a long screwdriver onto the diff and the plastic handle against my ear........its definately the diff :'( I also removed the drums to check them, and i checked the UJ's. I was really hoping it would be one of them!So ive set about removing the diff for further inspection, only a few bolts to go and im done so ill report back on Sunday and maybe put some photos up of suspect or broken components.If its a bearing inside or the pinion/crown etc whats stopping me from replacing it and putting it back together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 A diff requires reconditioning, the Crwon wheel and pinion need shimming correctly otherwise you will write thos bits off. Whilst doing that it's a false economy not to change the bearings and seals.Try Canley Classics or Paddocks for options & costs. Obviously there are other suppliers but these two get my vote. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.