Rosbif Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Hi everyoneThe problem I have is that all 4 indicators have stopped working, plus the light on the dashboard.I checked the relay and power arrives but nothing comes out for either side. Replacing the relay with a non standard model only resulted in (possibly) clicks from the unit. The mechanic quickly tried connecting the live feed to wires leading from the unit to get a continuous light, no result.The switch mechanism on the steering column looks to be ok.As far as I know and can see no previous owner has fitted a fuse to the system.Now that I am home I will rerun all these tests over the week-end.The mechanic suggested that it might be an earth connection problem. I would have thought that each side had a separate earth point he said some old cars did have just the one.My copy of the wiring diagram doesn’t show the indicator circuits at all, odd that? (think)So, is there anyone out there who:- Can throw some light on where the earth connections are.Had this problem.Got a wiring diagram for a 13/60 with the indicator circuits on.Well at least I know what I’ll be doing over the week-end, after all I wouldn’t dream of taking the car out with the indicators not working would I? (huh)Thanks for any help you can give. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Either a bullet connector between the relay and switch has gone to pot or the relay is knackered. The lights earth through their housing and with none working I'd say they're fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 Thanks Ferny, it seems I will have to do my least favourite thing, rummage under the dash board, (angry) I have a significant back problem that makes it very uncomfortable – but when needs must . . .Oh! Found a wiring diagram with the circuits on, silly me should look in the right place.(dizzy) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsbody47uk Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 sounds like a duff flasher unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 Hi everyoneWhile you were all enjoying a Saturday morning lay in and long coffee break I’ve had my head stuck under the bonnet and dashboard.Being a methodical person I have checked the electric circuit stage by stage with the following results.Current arrives at the flasher unit.The green light on the dashboard works if power is supplied at the flasher unit but bypassing the unit, so no wiring fault in this part. It doesn’t light under any other conditions.Current arrives at the steering column switch and as far as the contact plate inside via the flasher unit and direct.Connecting the left and right indicator circuits one at a time to a direct feed after the steering column switch gives indicators on continuously.This, to me, means there is nothing wrong with the wiring as such.Taking power via the flasher unit but bypassing the switch gives 12v at the connector block for the indicators but no lights. Enough volts but not enough power?Repeating the above but including the switch gives the same result.Since there is power via the flasher unit the internal circuit would seem to be ‘closed’ and if everything else was ok the indicators should light continuously at least.So it looks to me as if one or both of the flasher unit and column switch are faulty, what a surprise. Which it is I don’t know. I think I’ll cover both options and order both items. 😲Thanks for the replies so far.I think it is important to follow through any request for help with details of the result; it might help someone else later as well as being polite to those who have taken the time to think about the problem irrespective of whether they had any help to offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Hello Rosbif, I'm a little confused by what you have done, but if you short the flasher relay, i.e. connect input to output, with the ignition on and you get the indicators on continuously if the switch is made then the fault is the flasher relay.You say you have volts but no lights, if you have full voltage then you have full power, as long as the circuit is complete.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu 1986 Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 A new flasher unit is £5, it might be worth a try just dropping one onto the car and seeing if it makes a difference. There obviously isn't a wiring fault to the lights as you're getting them all to light up, you need to test your switch on another circuit to see if it's dud, you could just make a simple light circuit to try this if you have a spare bulb holder and some wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Testing the switch is simple, all you need to do is a continuity test and you can use the wires for it. If it all checks out or you don't have a multimeter then join the feed from the flasher to the return from one side of the switch, thus bypassing it. If one set of indicators flash correctly then the switch is buggered. If they don't then the switch isn't causing the current problem.Flasher units can show odd problems and fail in different ways. Buying one and finding you don't need it isn't the end of the world as it takes up so little room in the car and it will be wanted one day. Also, you've made sure the flasher unit has the correct wires on each terminal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Hi FernyThe existing flasher unit is connected correctly and had been working fine until the end of last week so nothing to with crossed wires.I have also tried, as you suggest, testing the circuit with the switch bypassed with a voltmeter I got 12v but no lights.Tomorrow I hope to have time to double check all my readings and tests,(think) in the meantime I have ordered a replacement flasher unit as both you and Stu1968 suggested. Hopefully it will arrive by the end of the week – I live in France so postage takes a day or two longer.(whistle)Will let you know the result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 If you're seeing 12V on the top end of the bulbs, but they're not lighting, then the only explanations available are: - blown bulbs - bad contacts in bulb housings - bad earth connection to bulbsIf you had "not enough power" from the 12V source, but a full set of good connections through, then the 12V source would simply fail to deliver 12V. The only way to not get "power" when there IS good voltage, is to not have current, which means open circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 I've had a problem with corrosion in the wiring/connectors/earth. Where you can get 12v as far as the bulb, but if you put a load on it (such as the bulb) then the voltage drops to zero. This was especially prominent on the Stag rear bulb holders that did not have a separate earth.That said if you hare having a problem with both sides I would look at the switch or flasher wiring. Try cleaning the bullets & fit new connectors under the column where the power feed comes in and then goes out to each side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 The original front sidelight/indicator units on my old Toledo appeared, at first, to be fine, so why didn't the lights work? Well, the four ohms I measured from the wire to the contact pad is enough to prevent even a 5W lamp from lighting up, never mind a 21W indicator bulb.But yes, as Richard says, look for such poor connections on the flasher or switch rather than bulb holders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1360 Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Just to pick up on this part of your fault finding:Quoted from Rosbif I have also tried, as you suggest, testing the circuit with the switch bypassed with a voltmeter I got 12v but no lights. That's as expected. A multimeter is high resistance when measuring volts so it won't pass enough current to light anything. A reading of 12v is good though. If this drops to about 0v when the switch is on then it'll prove the switch is working too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu 1986 Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Quoted from Rosbif Hi FernyThe existing flasher unit is connected correctly and had been working fine until the end of last week so nothing to with crossed wires. They wear out so it is entirely possible that this has happened in your case. Quoted from Rosbif I have ordered a replacement flasher unit as both you and Stu1968 suggested. You've added 26 years to my age!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 Oops!Look on the bright side Stu , you'll soon be able to enjoy your retirement.(woot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goody Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Along with the above, most all failures are caused by a bad earth connection, somewhere. Be sure all earth connections are good between the body and the battery. At times like this a simple probe with light works well to help you along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 Problem solved, well almost.Both the relay & switch were faulty. Both now replaced and indicators flash ok. (clap)Odd side effect though, the warning light is now nowhere near as bright as it was before. Later this afternoon I’ll give it a kick or hit it with a large hammer or something.(angry) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Quoted from Rosbif Odd side effect though, the warning light is now nowhere near as bright as it was before. Later this afternoon I’ll give it a kick or hit it with a large hammer or something.(angry) Less power for the warning bulb now that it’s going to where it should. Replace with an LED bulb; an amazingly effective upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 Paudman: Thanks for the tip but who supplies them in the format of the 987 standard type? Thanks for any help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsbody47uk Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 For led bulbs try http://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk. Cheers, Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 These little guys? Lots of them about.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-.....rksid=p2056016.l4276 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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