Installation of electric fuel pump on 2000 Mk1

[Jonny-Jimbo]

Hi All,

Having had so many god damn issue with fuel pumps, I am considering changing my 2000 mk1 to an electric pump.

The kit I am intending to use is either a Facet Interupter (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-pumps/facet-interrupter-electronic-fuel-pump-kit-2) or Facet Solid State pump (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-pumps/facet-solid-state-electronic-fuel-pump-kit), both of which far outstrip the requirements set in the Triumph workshop manual.

As these both deliver a very high flow rate (Triumph manual suggests 1.5 pints per minute, or 7.5 Gallons per hour, and a pressure of around 1.5 to 2.5PSI, I was going to use a Sytec Pressure Regulator too, (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-pressure-regulators/sytec-pro-flow-fuel-pressure-regulator).

I know this set up works, as it's near enough identical to my Ginetta that runs a set of Webers.

I was going to mount the fuel pump on the side of the battery box probably, and make a bracket to mount on the original fuel pump studs to hold the pressure regulator.

My issue really is though, am I likely to have fuel pissing everywhere, out of the carbs and all the joins as well between the tank and pump, then pump and carbs? Any advice would be much appreciated!!

[esxefi]

it will require a careful set up if using the solid state type otherwise it can run noisily.the pressure of the pump can be enough to prevent the float chamber valves from sealing and the armature inside the pump makes a loud clacking noise as it hits the valve seat(not the way they are designed to run).they are really more suited to weber type carbs but I had some success by restricting the flow with a reduced diameter section of fuel hose before the carbs and running a fuel return to the tank after the carbs which allowed the float chamber seats to work properly and feed them the fuel they needed. :)

never tried an interrupter pump so can't comment:-/

[junkuser]

The interrupter, from the writeup, could be mounted where you suggest but the other one has to be mounter low.

The little solid state ones, I think, are a free piston design. They run continuously and are noisy from my experience, though the one I have is a very early one which was marketed as a transfer pump.

[nang]

Had trouble with my Cortina's fuel system draining back so fitted a Facet pump, alongside the engine near the existing mechanical one. It works well. Can give you the model number if you need it. No noise from it, only when the key is turned on.
Can't really understand why the standard AC pump is giving problems though.
Tony.

[piman]

Hello Jonny,

why not fit an S.U. pump which will suit your carburettors better, no added complication of a regulator?

Alec

[CHRIS211083]

Or even better ditch all the crap pumps listed above and get a Huco fuel pump designed for carbs with an auto pressure regulator. It also sucks so can go anywhere you want to put it. Had one on my spitfire and the reassuring priming noise when you turn the ignition on is so comforting. Then when you start the car the pump cannot be heard(unlike the others you listed). I would also recommend buying a second hand fuel pump inertia switch which you put inline with the pumps positive wiring. Here is a link to the inertia switch you need.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-406-fuel-cut-off-switch-/251574456725?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a93019195

There are two gerneral types of switch, first is the two wire one which just goes in line with the power wire. The second is the three wire which also is run inline but the third wire can light a bulb for the dash or send and ecu an signal. Both work fine and are cheap. This switch is used on almost every modern car about and will cut the power to the pump in a crash or roll. Well worth having.

Here is a link to the pump.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL-PUMP-ELECTRIC-SUCTION-HUCO-133010-ENGINE-BAY-FITMENT-/360758769989?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53fee5f945

Don't waste your time on the other pumps, just buy the right one the first time. German built and will last forever.

Chris.

[Clive]

Bit harsh Chris.
Facet are THE pump used for many years by all the modded car people, most issues (as usual) caused by people not reading the instructions. the silver top in my old spitfire was perfect, made a noise until the system was up to pressure (a couple of seconds) then went quiet.

Other alternatives would include bike fuel pumps (carbed bikes, not efi!)

[TedTaylor]

I echo Alec on this one.

At my suggestion my brother decided to fit an electric pump into his Glas (which has a sophisticated mid 1960s engine design) because the mechanical pump and fuel line arrangement were a nightmare causing all sorts of problems which even the Glas club 'experts' :-/ could not sort out.

I suggested an 'electronic' SU type but he tried a Facet with a pressure regulator but he found it noisy and despite a regulator still gave over fueling problems.  I sent him the new 'electronic' SU type (one of the modern 'blue top' replica thingys) that I had just fitted to the Team Thailand car, to try - and he simply stuffed it into the fuel line by the tank in place of the Facet and regulator and ........ no more problems.  Worst bit was reminding him that I needed a replacement for my car!

Even when he fitted Webers in place of the pair of original twin choke Solex the pump worked fine and the engine now runs perfectly.

MUT

[piman]

Hello Chris,

that pump looks like an S.U. pump clone?

Alec

[TedTaylor]

piman wrote:

Hello Chris,

that pump looks like an S.U. pump clone?

Alec

Yes it is, like the blue top thingy that I have just mentioned.  

I tried to be posh and bought a 'genuine' SU pump with electronic switching last year which worked fine, but after standing over winter and spring unused because of my knee op saga it decided to apparently seize (wonder whether it was modern fuels and old pattern seals).  I have just got another one of the 'blue tops' off ebay (new £40 as a special deal) and it works a treat.

MUT

[Richard B]

or if you want to keep it period, fit an Inertia Switch that Triumph used on PI's and Stags.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XJS-INERTIA-FUEL-SWITCH-EARLY-/191220016368?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c8599e4f0#ht_747wt_721

[CHRIS211083]

The Huco may look like a copy but it's made in Germany to much higher standards. I used mine through all weathers in freezing conditions and it never missed a beat. I wouldn't buy the Su one. Lets just say Ive had enough of buying the cheaper part that doen't last as long. I'm now EFI and sold it on to another CT Member but can't remember who???

Chris.

[piman]

Hello Chris,

have you ever bought a new S.U. pump because cheap they are not?

Alec

[TedTaylor]

Yes - 'wasted' £120 on an SU pump that did not last though I believe they are now supplied with latest type seals - something anyone buying one needs to check.

The 'blue top' ones which have a plated body and blue plastic cap and tape are I understand made in Germany - typically on ebay they seem to be around £80 - £90 ....... I was very lucky with my £40  ;D  I don't dispute what Chris says about the Huco being quality and nearly went down that route but wanted something that looked right in a Historic car.

Because the 'blue top' is in the Team Thailand car I needed it to look original SU.  Took the black top off an old knackered SU pump and after widening the distance between the two top holes was able to make it fit the new pump over the pair of connector studs (it does not earth through the body as in an SU).  Painted the pump body black, MARKED THE POS AND NEG CONNECTIONS ......, fitted the SU top and sealed with black tape, bought some copy 'SU reconditioned" strip stickers off ebay and you could not tell the difference unless you were a bit of an anorak.

MUT

[willows40]

Don`t really see the problem using a su pump, i drive a mgbgt as my main car at moment, i have owned the car for just over 7 years and have never had a problem with the pump, Its sit underneath the car so not protected and in the time i have owned the car it has sat around sometimes for months on end and other times used everyday,
It`s always the same, turn ignition on a few clicks from the pump and away it goes

Cheers Andy

[piman]

Hello Andy,

I too have had many cars with S.U. pumps over the years, no real problems at all, a good and reliable pump in my view. Probably I have been lucky as I also run a Lucas fuel pump on my P.I. which has been trouble free also.

Alec

[TedTaylor]

Yes I agree that SU pumps are usually reliable including the type with points - used them for decades but when they start playing up .........  :-/  

Usually the points are the problem when they give trouble which is why I went over to electronic type, and is why I was so pi**ed off when my new one gave up the ghost a few days before I was booked to take the Team Thailand car to Gaydon the other weekend :(

MUT

[willows40]

piman wrote:

Hello Andy,

I too have had many cars with S.U. pumps over the years, no real problems at all, a good and reliable pump in my view. Probably I have been lucky as I also run a Lucas fuel pump on my P.I. which has been trouble free also.

Alec

I have also had 2 pi triumphs both running lucas pumps without any problems, Think people change to modern `upgrade` just for the sake of it

[TedTaylor]

People make a big thing about a modern upgrade (Bosch) citing how unreliable the Lucas ones are.  However they forget that these pumps are now 40 to 45 years old and usually with a bit of mileage behind them so have every reason to be showing signs of unreliability.  

Fitting a recon pump is no more expensive and much easier than a Bosch conversion and should be good for many decades to come.  I have had two Lucas pumps give trouble after 40 years and simply replaced them the same and all was OK.

On the overheating problem because of location (above the silencer) my solution was so makeup a wad of aluminised fibreglass matting and put it under the pump - no more problems on even the hottest days.  Agriemach do lots of different aluminised insulation solutions such as starter motor wrap which would be ideal for a pump.

MUT

[Tim Bancroft]

I have Hucos fitted to my GT6 and the Saloon, brilliant!

Fit and forget, both in the engine compartment, therefore easy to wire and plumb.

About to fit one to the Spitfire.

[ferny]

1526 wrote:

Yes I agree that SU pumps are usually reliable including the type with points - used them for decades but when they start playing up .........  :-/  

MUT

Had a dodgy SU fuel pump, swapped out the points for a double set and away it went. :)

[Raider]

Always had the mechanical original pumps on my Triumphs.  Never had a problem tho I will probably wish I hadn't sais that now ;D

[Jonny-Jimbo]

Raider, if the trouble is as intermittent and as weird as I have that keeps the car off the road for most of a year you really will regret saying that.

All started on the last RBRR when that damn driveshaft started to throw a UJ and the diff mounts failed. That kept the car off the road for 6 months whilst I gathered bits and did it 'right' - ie, diff backplate etc blasted and powerdercoated, but then the engine started playing up. Now the viscous fan has failed too. FFS.

[BrendanD]

I second Chris' views on the Hulco v the Facet solid state. I had the Facet, but the tapping drove me nuts so fitted a Hulco instead. Silent...

[junkuser]

"I second Chris' views on the Hulco v the Facet solid state. I had the Facet, but the tapping drove me nuts so fitted a Hulco instead. Silent..."

That would have been the little cube shaped one, not the interrupter.