Engine rebuild gospel points

[Marc F]

Ok, so getting ready to put my Spit lump back together. But before I start I wanted to see what the (current) best practice view is on two subjects close to my heart:

1) Gasket sealant - to use/not to use, and if so, on what gaskets. In particular, head gasket, but interested in views across the engine's various gaskets.

2) Oiling threads before torqueing down - do it or not do it. My engine will have been completely cleaned, including the threads, so I am starting from a clean position.

I have seen conflicting views, so wondered if there is a current definitive view.

And anything else I need to consider please?

Thanks

Marc

[yorkshire_spam]

FWIW:

1) I use this sparingly ONLY in areas likely to leak (timing cover on Spit 1500 for example), not on "run-of-the-mill" gaskets.
2) I just ensure that all the threads are clean and use a small amount of oil

Depending on how the block has been cleaned make sure it REALLY is clean. (If it's been media blasted make sure there is no residue in oilways etc! Don't take a suppliers word for it)
Check and if necessary replace studs/nuts/high load fasteners. (Big end bolts, head studs/nuts etc.)

[sparky_spit]

I found this very useful and informative http://mg-tri-jag.net/Preamble.htm

This is the "preamble" page, and then there are links or buttons at the bottom of each page to take you to the next section.  I'ts worth a look.

[JohnD]

I don't know about "gospel" but:

Paper gaskets - a THIN coating of sealant.   Blue Hylomar is available in an aerosol can, which makes that easy to do.

Head gasket - Payen are coated with a heat sensitive sealant - they need no extra.

Always lightly oil threads, but more important, check the setting of your torque wrench before you start.

Camlube on cam lobes, graphogen on bearings, gloves on hands - vinyl are best.

John

[Nick Jones]

In agreement with the above.

I'd only add that I consider it essential to thoroughly clean all the oil ways in the block, which means taking out all the gallery plugs and going at it with rifle brushes and carb cleaner.  I also pull out the oil pump shaft bush in order to be able to clean that part of the main gallery properly.

Nick

[nang]

Agree with Nick, cleanliness is next to godliness. (naughty)
Tony.

[JohnD]

An aside, really, Nick, and I agree that removing the oil way plug is ideal, but I've never found a block in which all of them, sometimes any of them, could be removed!
They seem to seize into place, and even using good Allen keys or hex-drives, the hex socket burrs out before they will move.

So I've bottle-brushed them from the bearing end, hoping that anything dislodged and pushed up towards the main gallery will be washed away by subsequent washouts.
So far ......!

What's your secret for removing oilway plugs?
John

[GT6 M]

Ive been useing high temp blak silicon selant for yonks
last engine got it every where,
NO gaskets  any where what so ever, gaskets leak.

Most moderns use this set up.
butt, some folk must like leekee engines I think,!!!

As for cyl heed, I bung a thin bit of the stuff along the spark plug side,
as this bit alwys seems to leak, No matter if the gasket has a coating or not,
oil seems to seep between gasket /heed, Before  the gasket varnish or wat eva it is has got upto temp an melted.
Show me a T engine that dont leak, esp after a blast,!!!

Glue yer rocker box gasket onto engine side only,not into the box.


John, tek,n the wee plugs oot, wak a Torx, ora spline drive in.
never fails, butt allen keys will.
why are allen keys so so soft,!!!

M

[Marc F]

Thanks all.

The engine is completely stripped down, including all core plugs and oilway cap bolts etc, so it will be thoroughly clean - I have an interesting selection of oilway brushes, jet washer, degreasing and cleaning chemicals etc.

The head gasket is a Payen

So I will oil the threads lightly - engine oil I presume.

Interesting, if I understand the "Scottish" writing properly about not using any gaskets, just sealant. I am slightly "scared" of this approach as I am a traditionalist and just naturally assume gaskets are designed to work on our cars, so probably, unless someone else has a tested view, will run with the gasket set and blue sealant, but I may use black on less sensitive areas (for eg, my fuel pump is electric so I have a blanking plate, which seems ideal for sealant). In particular, I would have concerns about the head gasket as that seems kind of crucial  hence the Payen gasket. Using a sealant seems odd to say the least, and with my clumsiness I would worry about blocking an important hole or ruining the join or similar.

Thanks all. Much appreciated. There is so much, often contradictory, advice on the web that I wanted to see what people using our engines are doing

Marc

[GT6 M]

Head gasket, read what I said,
If they had the stuff available then, they would have used it as makers doo now.
My engine never leaks.

Ohh, seal yer bloks water ways, {ie bung core plugs in,on heed, block off water pump housing} and fill wid Phosphoric acid , leave for a few days, it comes oot as clean as new bare metal.

M

[Marc F]

Yes, I did read it, but wasn't sure if you said ditch the gaskets throughout, or use a sealant with the head gasket.

I googled some silicone sealants but temperatures don't look good for a cylinder head heat, so would be interested in the version you have used please.

[JohnD]

Thanks for the Torx tip Marcus!

And if you want a non-leaky Triumph engine, I offer mine.
John

[nang]

I tend to use Loctite master gasket on everything except the head gasket, along with paper gaskets. Absolutely no oil leaks in motor, gearbox and diff after over 12 months. I also polish seal running surfaces. Vehicle testing men are surprised and concerned that I have turned off the British anti rust system.
Tony.

[rotoflex]

I used no sealant on the head gasket & Permatex Aviation gasket sealant on everything else.
Non-leaky for about 30 years!

[piman]

Hello John,

this type of extractor is what I use to remove the hexagonal blanking plugs, less damaging to the tools as Marcus was recommending (sorry Marcus)(Allen keys are not soft but the plugs are)

Alec

[JohnD]

I see what you are using, Clive, good if rarely used tool, but what are they called?
All I can read from the label in the cover is "Strongpoint".

They work, I presume like 'easyouts' for snapped bolts, but being shorter and stouter are less likely to break off.
John

[Marc F]

Don't tell me about the oil way hex plug - that was an "interesting" challenge. There is what appears to be a larger one below the distributor mount on the block that resists all efforts, but cannot see what purpose it serves

[don cook1]

"There is what appears to be a larger one below the distributor mount on the block that resists all efforts, but cannot see what purpose it serves"

The Scottish bloke will tell us. Where are you McMarcus