Clive Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I measure the height of the lobes, tip to the opposite side if that makes sense. Most cams I have removed have had at least one badly worn lobe. And those followers would have me worried about the cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 2674 wrote:The bad news just keeps going. Having cleaned the head more by hand with a scotch pad. It appears the head is cracked in a very odd way. That to me looks like the head has been skimmed and a waterway is about to braek through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hammond Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 That was my hunch too. New or replacement head is needed.M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 1218 wrote:That was my hunch too. New or replacement head is needed.M.Why? It's not near the combustion chamber, the outside edge, any oilway or even a stud hole. The head gasket will seal it. It wasn't causing a problem before and I'd certainly try it as is.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hammond Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I'd just replace whilst all apart just because it isn't as it should be and it's in bits anyway. Another head should be cheap and easy to source. Just my opinion tho....M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfiandy Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 That faint ring you can see in the second photo is the path of the head gasket ring. It runs straight through the crack so half is in the combustion chamber and half outside.I am now thinking I should cancel the short engine and just order a full engine. I am out of my depth and don't really know what to do. If I need a new head, a new cam and followers the difference to a fully rebuilt engine is not that much and whilst I don't really want to spend that much I don't seem to have much choice.I will see if I can cancel the short engine on Monday, Cranley dont do a full engine so I will have to find another supplier.Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveKent Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I would you suggest you phone Dave at Canleys and talk to him about it first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 :B Ok, been looking at too many 6's and forgot how much squish area there is on the 4-pot.... Still may be worth getting that head looked at by an engine machine shop and possibly pressure tested. A crack from combustion chamber to water jacket normally makes itself known by either pressurising the cooling system and blowing the water out past the rad cap or just unexplained water loss (former more likely). You've not mentioned this. Could be a surface defect - normally a fair thickness of casting under the squish area, though anything is possible.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfiandy Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 Thanks for the ideas, there is no water loss and no signs of water in the oil. This camber didn't look any different to the others so I don't think it is currently leaking. But I don't want to put it all back together to have it fail again .I will see what Dave has to say and might try the machine shop recommended earlier in the thread, as they were very help full when I called them about the thrust washer.Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Having an actual defect in the surface almost suggests the head has been welded at some time.Worth getting someone who knows what he is doing look at it in the flesh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfiandy Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 Hi, I spoke to Dave who viewed the photos and let me know that the surface crack is not near any water or oil ways so is almost certainly a casting defect. His recommendation was to pressure test and If OK not to worry bout it for a road engine.He also gave me some great hints nd tips on putting the engin back together.Regards,Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfiandy Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 Hi,I can't get the crank nut off. It does not appear to have a lock tab. The instructions were to put it in first and undo it. My determination of crank direction lead me to believe it is a standard thread not a reverse so I applied pressure anticlockwise actually in the end I tried both. I put it in fourth as the ratio is better to lock the engine but cannot get it to move even with an extension bar on the spanner. I am a bit concerned about how much pressure I can apply without damaging the rest of the drive chain but I smoothly increased pressure till I was applying most of my weight to it on a two foot extension. There is a lot of give as the drive train takes up the slack so its hard to apply a sharp pressure to it.It's soaking in WD40 at the moment. Am I doing something wrong? Any other ideas?Dave the engine builder said they usually fall off small crank blocks so did not expect me to have any problem!Regards,Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfiandy Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 Just did a search and am off to try jamming the crank with some wood. The blocks scrap anyway so as long the drive train is not damaged I am happy to apply lots of force.Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 The best way is shock it by hitting the spanner/wrench with a club hammer. (Anti clockwise. Normal right hand thread nut) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougBGT6 Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 I had badly worn thrust bearings, the crank was moving back and forth 1/4 inch as I recall. The crank was saved with a regrind but what wasn't straight away apparent was the unusual wear in the bores. An elongated S shape caused by the crank moving backwards and forward on acceleration and deceleration. Despite this the compression wasn't too bad. Not sure what would've happened if I'd put it back together like that! Worth getting it checked out. Mine needed a re-bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsbody47uk Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 An impact wrench will get the nut undone, but failing that, a method I have used in the past, brutal but effective, is to put a socket with a solid lever, not ratchet, on the nut with the lever against the ground, and operate the starter . TAKE THE SPARK PLUGS OUT FIRST. The torque applied is huge and usually loosens the nut, although the bang as it lets go can be frightening. Not for the faint hearted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsbody47uk Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Apologies. Have just read whole thread. My method not applicable in this case . Beg ,borrow , steal or even buy an impact wrench. Where are you, as I have one? Cheers , Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfiandy Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 Thanks I have an impact wrench but not a socket that fits the nut but I managed to remove it.Crank nut removed after jamming the crank with some wood and using a four foot extension on the spanner.Below are some photos of the timing gear. I think the sprockets are OK the chain is just under the 1/2 inch stretch limit so I will replace it.The cam lobes seem OK apart from the fuel pump one. The stupid modern mechanical fuel pumps with the thin lever have cut into it. I cleaned up the sprockets the distributor cog is coated in copper which has worn of in some places but does not seem badly worn.Have I missed anything.Worst cam lobeFuel pump lobeWhole camSprockets Timing gearRepainted pump housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSpeedy Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 If you're fitting a new timing chain, fit new sprockets as well.#Tbh, they really want changing anyway, as the cam sprocket is already showing signs of wear.For the extra £30 or so for a pair of sprockets, it's not worth chancing imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daedalusminos Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 5999 wrote:If you're fitting a new timing chain, fit new sprockets as well.#Tbh, they really want changing anyway, as the cam sprocket is already showing signs of wear.For the extra £30 or so for a pair of sprockets, it's not worth chancing imoVery good advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfiandy Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 Thanks for the advice, sprockets now added to the long list of parts.Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsbody47uk Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Hi Andy. A small suggestion, given all the problems you are having. The photos seem to show, correct me if I'm wrong, a fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carbs. It,s better to fit the filter between the tank and the fuel pump. Saves getting a clogged up fuel pump. Cheers, Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfiandy Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 Thanks Dave I will shift it when I reassemble.Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfiandy Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 Update on the engine rebuild. I managed to borrow an engine hoist from a Club Triumph member many thanks to Mike.With the engine out I removed the clutch and fly wheel. Both look damaged to me, the fly wheel is not as scored as the clutch but I imagine the fly wheel needs resurfacing. The clutch I will just replace.The bell housing has dried on oil residue it is now wet looking as I sprayed some oil cleaner on it to start softening it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Answered on the US site.JOhn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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