Peterrc Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 I plan to improve the engine cooling on my 2 ltr Triumph 6 cylinder engine (Bond Equipe) and have come up with the idea of raising the radiator by about 3/4 of an inch. This would in theory increase the coolant capacity. It has always troubled me that when cold there is no water in the hose from the thermostat. Has anybody done this? One problem that I can see is that the area affected by the fan would be reduced.Perhaps I would be better fitting an electric fan or having the radiator re-cored.The engine temp is fine when driving 1/3 gauge but in towns it rises to 1/2+What do the experts think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 If "The engine temp is fine when driving 1/3 gauge but in towns it rises to 1/2+" why on earth do you think it needs fixing?I'm sure there are are other jobs on your car that are more important!John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 As John suggests - you haven't actually got a problem.Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Yes I agree - trying to fix a cooling problem that does not exist if the gauge never goes over half way.MUT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterrc Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 1526 wrote:Yes I agree - trying to fix a cooling problem that does not exist if the gauge never goes over half way.MUTI hear what you are saying but these conditions are with an outside temperature of 15 degrees in Scotland. What would it be like in France at 30 degrees plus? I don't want to go there and find that it cannot cope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Cook Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 "What would it be like in France at 30 degrees plus? I don't want to go there and find that it cannot cope."A lot of us have travelled around France like there's no tomorrow and our Triumphs don't/do have trouble with cooling. Heck, leave it alone and get down to Dover and report back on your trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 OK, I think you need to know what is actually happening if you are worried.The std gauges only really work to show a change, some read a bit low, some in the middle and some a bit high. I have played with senders and gauges, on the same engine, and I could get it reading anywhere fro 1/4 to 3/4, yet with a capillary temp gauge it was sitting at a touch over 80 degrees, so ideal.My point is that until you try a calibrated gauge you just do not know.There are some other things you could do too. A good engine flush may help, include the block drain plug. And the heater.After that you may need to get the radiator efficiency checked, rad specialists used to offer this as a service, I presume they still do.I take it the engine is correctly set up, is not running weak, timing is correct and you have checked the advance mechanism is working correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Make sure the whole system is properly flushed out, give it the best chance, make sure the heater is working to it's maximum in case you need some extra cooling.And give it a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Irrespective of what the temp gauge says, does the engine feel hot when running? Thinks like pinking, running on, steaming from the overflow, heater very hot, etc.I would be inclined to do some serious testing with a temp probe and a lot of driving around, especially in traffic (low airflow). Carry a lot of spare water and thick glove to get the rad cap off without burning your hand and you won't get stranded if the car does get hot. Getting hot and boiling and keeping going is what really kills cars, getting too hot, resting and taking it easy shouldn't do any permanent damage.A decent multi-meter will come with a temp probe and a digital read out - something like this (I have one)[mail]http://www.toolbox.co.uk/draper-61023-autoranging-2175-67397?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=GB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=CjgKEAjwnfGbBRDlxoHrl6uikyESJAD-nzCFFO3aDb6CQ-e15RPxdFdaMqyaf2i2zj5GdmFoee-2m_D_BwE[/mail]As the other posters have said, your temp gauge is an approximation, it doesn't necessarily mean you have a problem if it reads high (or low). Our cars are not prone to overheating in standard trim with a cooling system in good order so I would not think modification is a good starting point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougBGT6 Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 I agree with the guys, flush it out. I don't think raising the rad will get you any advantage, after all you are venting water into the expansion bottle when hot. If you are concerned, buy a Polypin of beer. Drink the beer. Fill the Polypin with water. Put it in the boot. I did this for years with a knackered old mini, replacing the Polypin at very regular intervals. ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 And don't forget that when flushing it is important to back flush - pushing the water round the wrong way through the system with a hose at high pressure. It is amazing at times how much extra crud comes out of the rad, heater and block, each flushed separatelyMUT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 It seems like if that's the point at which the thermostat is maintaining the coolant, monkeying around with the radiator won't change anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69vitesse Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 2670 wrote:I hear what you are saying but these conditions are with an outside temperature of 15 degrees in Scotland. What would it be like in France at 30 degrees plus? I don't want to go there and find that it cannot cope.Every summer, I go to northern Italy, see plenty of Triumphs blatting about in temperatures quite a bit higher.FWIW, you might be very surprised if you measure the under bonnet temperature of a typical Triumph - you will find its significantly higher than 30 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 I think you are trying to fix something that isn't broken..... Mine runs hotter than yours seems to and that survived a very hot Friday afternoon in Nice (France) traffic - crew were melting though......Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 When you can fry an egg on the scalp down in Nice (yes thin on top) and the temp gauge only goes to half way,then you will have no problem...............mind you my legs were a bit warm! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Would'nt hurt to do as Ted says and flush out the engine block. Pop out the core plugs and get the water flowing in the opposite direction that it flows in normal circumstances. Pay particular attention to the rear of the engine around the rear engine drain tap, 6 pot Triumph engines fill with crap in that area.I tend to think the GT6 range's cooling is abit marginal, they do get warm going up the Alps, all others seem fine. Presume you have a Vitesse rad fitted to your car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterrc Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 OK, I admit I have been diagnosed with a case of 'Overheating Paranoia'. The condition started soon after I bought a Triumph Stag. I have sold that but the condition continues. The psychiatrist says that there is a 90% chance I would be cured if I bought an MG but I am allergic to MG's. The therapy provided by this Forum is helping. To answer your questions. The engine has been set up by a local garage after the head was changed to unleaded and the crankshaft was reground. The system has been treated with radiator flush and the Static timing is 6 degrees BTDC. The engine does feel hot with heat felt inside the car.I have a capillary gauge which I will connect up and see what results I get.Many thanks for all the comments and advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzer Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Out of interest, I run a 2000 early six with no mechanical or automatic fan. Just a manual kenlowe pusher fan, used only when ticking over for extended periods or tests. It does have a racestorations high output alloy water pump and extra cores in the the standard rad, but its a stressed engined with nearly 11:1 comp and timing at 14btdc.It always runs over cool on the move with no fan and hits just over norm when thrashed hard. standard stat.CheersDarren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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