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Repairing cast iron exhaust manifolds?


Rubce

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Hi All

Have any of you got experience of repairing the mating faces of a cast iron exhaust manifold where it matches up to the head? The manifold off our GT6 is worn in the areas adjacent to the centre four ports. Is welding and then re-machining an option?

I briefly considered replacing it with a tubular manifold until I saw the prices Rimmers are asking!

Regards

Bruce

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If it's only cleaning up a face and then skimming flat then a bit of chemical metal will do the job, there are high-temperature versions out there. I'd be prepared to redo it every so often though. My own MK1 manifold split in two halves on a run back from Scotland, the only solution was to buy a tubular version as I was advised welding would be nigh-on impossible.

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Bruce,
So many people have gone for a tubular, and the originals are normally bonb-proof items that will survive anything that wrecks the rest of  the car, so that there must be many unused cast-iron manifolds sitting in back-garages. I'm sure I have some!

If yours is damaged, chuck it and get another, don't repair.    
There are two on eBay right now, one for £5 and one for £50.  (Lunatic! Where do people get the idea that these things are gold dust?)
Is your engine Mk1 or II?

John

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MkI cast manifolds are getting scarce due to their fragility. If its a MkI consider a tubular version.

MkII cast manifolds are stronger, and therefore more plentiful and cheaper.


I gave up trying to weld a lasting repair to a MkI manifold. Might have been better with Oxy-Acetalene.  :-/



Just read your signature (if it's a MkII manifold for the MkIII GT6) you should be able get a replacement for around £15 as John (above) has stated.

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I remember some time ago reading an explanation of the difficulty of welding cast iron.
It's all down to the alloys in the various cast irons, and the best advice is that the native metal must be heated as high as 500C to avoid cracking or and to allow full penetration of the weld.   Not easy to do with something as big as as a manifold.
John

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Hello John,

I've done a few cast iron welding jobs all without pre heat but you do need the correct rods. It is even possible to weld mild steel to cast iron , e.g. to patch a hole, again with special rods. AS Richard mentioned, oxy acetylene is an option to float some brass over the depression.

Alec

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JohnD wrote:
I remember some time ago reading an explanation of the difficulty of welding cast iron.
It's all down to the alloys in the various cast irons, and the best advice is that the native metal must be heated as high as 500C to avoid cracking or and to allow full penetration of the weld.   Not easy to do with something as big as as a manifold.
John


Not just that, the item needs to be cooled down slowley and evenly it is in the cooling process cracking occurs.

Laurence

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JohnD wrote:
I remember some time ago reading an explanation of the difficulty of welding cast iron.
It's all down to the alloys in the various cast irons, and the best advice is that the native metal must be heated as high as 500C to avoid cracking or and to allow full penetration of the weld.   Not easy to do with something as big as as a manifold.
John


Not just that, the item needs to be cooled down slowley and evenly it is in the cooling process cracking occurs.

Laurence

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JohnD wrote:
and the originals are normally bonb-proof items that will survive anything that wrecks the rest of  the car


I've managed to kill a couple of 13/60 manifolds and a couple more 1500 Spitfire ones on various engines and in different places.  :B

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mikew wrote:


Not surprised with your bodged up exhaust systems  ;D


Oi, you cheeky fecker! The Acclaim's system is spot on now and the mpg has gone up by two. :)

The Herald... well... I've given up sealing it since it always gets pulled apart on the same speed bumps.  :-/
I've not broken a manifold since I tinkered though!  :P

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Quote:
Quote:
Quoted from GT6Craig
Be better on a belt sander  




Why?



Where you suggesting angle grinding the flange face to remove pitting?

The bed of a table belt sander (even them little ones from B&Q) give a relatively flat surface to “work out” minor pitting…

I have seen a good finish from linishing a manifold flange face on one.

Just a thought….obviously milling would be the best and recommended option.

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Hello Craig,

"I have seen a good finish from linishing a manifold flange face on one"

I don't doubt you'd get a good finish but it takes a lot of skill and care to get an accurate finish.
It's a small job to mill the face, that's what I would do if I had to.

Alec

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