Anthony Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Bainzy - the front wing, and front sill gaps are easy to fix on your carAll you need to do is adjust the angled of the bonnet by either lowering the front, or raising the rearLower the front of the bonnet via the bolts in the bonnet boxes, if this is not possible you will need to put a 'spacer' under the bulkhead to lift the body slightlyYou could lift the rear of the bonnet by adjusting the bonnet cones rather than fitting a spacer, BUT this will mean the top of the bonnet will now sit higher than the top of the bulkheadBy fitting a spacer under the bulkhead you will raise both the bonnet and the body, meaning they will still sit flushHope that makes sense - let me know if it does or notDo you have any other pictures of the sills to rear wings? - It looks like that's going to be quite a bit more work to get that flush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 I've got the door gap to rear wing gap looking pretty nice right nowHowever, if you look closely you can see the striker plate through the door gapAnybody found a solution to this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Will get you some more photos Anthony. As you might expect, when I take photos of the car, I usually tend to avoid photos that show the imperfections in the gaps!Interestingly the gaps aren't as bad now without the hardtop on, only a slight difference but you notice it. The car never had a hardtop until I bought it, so when the sills were done, there won't have been one to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Has anyone seen this months practical classics? Bodywork expert Martin Thaddeus shows how to fix badly fitting doors without doing any metalwork whatsoever, using a hydraulic ram to lift the sagged a-post panel and retensioning with a hammer.Anyone else tried this? The car he does it on has worse gaps than mine, yet he ends up with door gaps I'd be ecstatic with. I'll be trying it myself once the hardtop comes off, though I can't help but wonder, should you remove the center radio console when doing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aar0sc Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Speaking of nice shutting doors; the ones on my spit lock open at full opening, and with the lighest press release and swing slowly round and shut perfectly :)Originality ftw ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 1381 wrote:Has anyone seen this months practical classics? Bodywork expert Martin Thaddeus shows how to fix badly fitting doors without doing any metalwork whatsoever, using a hydraulic ram to lift the sagged a-post panel and retensioning with a hammer.Anyone else tried this? The car he does it on has worse gaps than mine, yet he ends up with door gaps I'd be ecstatic with. I'll be trying it myself once the hardtop comes off, though I can't help but wonder, should you remove the center radio console when doing it?I haven't seen that article yetIs that method purely for convertible cars?Sounds interesting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 More questions.....If I centre the body on the chassis I cannot get the floor bolts through the front cross-members into the chassisIt appears that the holes in the floor and crossmember are too wide for the chassisI can bolt one side in if I push to body over so it's off centre on the chassisI can't move the holes in the floor, as the crossmembers have tubes/channels running through then to guide the bolts into placeNow then....The thing I'm thinking is, perhaps the bolts will fit in place if the body is lifted upThe bolts go in at an angle, so the higher the body is from the chassis, the closer they'll be to lining upMy chassis needs new front outriggers, and I haven't got any spacers under the small 'legs' of the chassis that the floor crossmembers bolt toI'm wondering if once I've fitted the front outriggers, do the small chassis 'legs' require spacers tooAnd if so will these two factors lift the body slightly allowing the crossmember bolts to fit into place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Front cross members? Just next to the seats? They are widely adjustable (captive nuts...) - have you welded in new floor panels without checking with the chassis?Front outriggers: There should be an alu spacer at the engine side only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Yep, the ones under the seatsThe bolts don't line up with the nuts in the chassis right nowA LOT of panels have been replaced, but all measurements are as they were prior to removalI'm wondering if they will line up once the front outriggers have been replaced - as this will lift the front of the body (since the old outriggers are hanging off)My thinking is that......Since those bolts go in at an angle, the higher the body is, the wider apart the bolt holes can beSo, fitting new outriggers and spacers "might" do the trick??Could somebody measure the distance between the cross members and their bolt holes for me??I've measured the distance between the floors and the sills etc etc previously and they're all spot onMy measurements are all the same as they were prior to removal, but I'd like to know what they are compared to other peoples cars just incase my body tub wasn't aligned to start with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 One of the main reasons to keep the tub on the chassis while replacing floors ;-)I know, will keep my mouth s.... Believe the measures are in the workshop manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 It was - but then the chassis was swapped :B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Send me you email address via pm and I'll forward you the official drawing for the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Thanks SteveI think I've got the pictures you mean, but I'll PM you just incaseIf somebody could measure the floor that'd be extremely helpful - I know the chassis hasn't had any work done, so I'm wondering if the holes are in the wrong place in the cross membersThe cross members themselves fit perfectly, but I have no idea how accurately the holes are made during manufacture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 The frame of my car has been straightened a couple of times, so I'm reluctant to measure & offer it as a reference! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 No worriesI think It's the actual bolt holes in the crossmembers rather than the chassis measurements that'll be more useful to meIt'd be good to hear the distance from the bolt holes to the sills, as well as the distance between the bolt holes themselves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 I will try to take some measures on my 'collection' of lost chassis' and ditto body tubs this week 8)Won't be before Thursday though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black6osprey Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 1903 wrote:No worriesI think It's the actual bolt holes in the crossmembers rather than the chassis measurements that'll be more useful to meIt'd be good to hear the distance from the bolt holes to the sills, as well as the distance between the bolt holes themselvesAnthony, Ive measured between the bolt centres on mine and I make it 81mm. Cant really help measuring from the sill to the nearest bolt hole centre and my carpet is stuck down but its probably about 300mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Thank you mate, really appreciate thatCould you measure the distance of the holes between the left and right side floor pans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 On the body tub? No problem. If on the frame, I will have to wait until after Thursday, as I only have 'non dismantled' cars at home :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Yep, i think i need the measurements on thr tubNeed to know the distance between the left and right crossmember(from bolt hole to bolt hole, from passanger side to drivers side) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hmm - forgot the gearbox cover - couldn't do an accurate measure. Will have to wait until thursday.Measure from rear (heel board panel) to bolt hole centre of box section is 76,5 cm. if any help. Don't forget that the captive nuts on the frame is on a bracket that are widely adjustable - might call for some brutal violence :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Oh, did find this old picture/drawing (note: The measure is NOT 77,5 cm as on picture, but 76,5 cm. But the box section on the rhs was about half an inch further forward than the lhs (factory!) - so....Not sure about the 57,4 cm either. But 120 cm /47 1/4" from sill top is correct :-)Sorry for the size of the picture, but didn't want to resize.And don't ask me to explain all the strange drawings. * edit: 80,1 cm is from inner sill (i.e. not top of), to extra hole in box section - NOT centre of bolt hole. Don't if these holes are the same, if you have used new repro box sections? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Thanks mateCould you let me know what these measurements are - (indicated in red)I'm not sure how accurately they can be measured due to the propshaft tunnel, but any info you have would be brilliantThanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 I will be at my workshop tonight, will take a measure then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Difficult to measure, as bolts are going in at an angle of ~ 30 deg.Got 38 and 54 cm. bolt hole centre to bolt hole centre.You can do some adjustments on the bracket with captive nuts, underside of the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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