trubac Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Hello overthere !Just after a 100km trip (mainly motorway at 70mph) the oil warning light lighted up when the engine is at low revs ... When cold it is fine but now when warm the warning lights gets on at low to med revs.The oil level is normal, the car is running fine, no overheating ...I suppose the culprit is the oil pump so few questions :- can it be the oil filter that is blocked ?- is it possible to change the oil pump in situ ? do I need a new one or can it be reoaired DIY ?- is there other area to look ?Thanks very much for helping !I'm posting in the 1300 and Spitfire section.Gilles from Dieppe (FR) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 How old is the oil? What type? Has it been in for HARD HOT driving? It's possible the oil is past it's best. (the "ok when cold, not when hot" made me think this)It's also possible (but not likely) that the pressure sender is at fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hammond Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 I'd also check the oil pressure switch and if ok arrange for a bottom end overhaul as it is unlikely to be pump alone. Sorry to be bearer of bad news.Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trubac Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 mmm ... thanks for the answers ...1- I will do an oil change first (20W50) with a new filter.2- I Will order a new oil pressure senderPressure releif walve can be faulty to, no ? how to check that one ?THXG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Ideally you want an oil pressure gauge. See what is happening to teh pressure.however, if the sensor etc is OK, my first guess would be worn crank bearings. On most of our cars this can be done in situ by dropping the sump. the relief valve is on the block, near the sump, roughly under the oil filter. Looks like a big and long nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Second Clive, most likely big end bearings. Did this on my S a couple of years ago. Copper was showing on the shells. Unfortunately shaft had to be ground too.Recommend fitting an oil pressure gauge first to see what is happening.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 I am also of the school of first getting an oil pressure gauge, to get some idea of what's actually going on. I've had instances where exactly what you describe happened; subsequently the oil light would stay on for higher and higher rev's...and then it decided to spring a leak, which pretty much made me decide to change it out. Oh, I'd already had an oil pressure gauge, so I knew what was actually happening! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Does the engine rattle on cold start? If not (or not much) I'd try in order- give the oil a good sniff - does it smell strongly of petrol - has the level gone up? Split fuel pump diaphragm can dilute the oil.- new pressure switch- investigate the relief valve and check for broken spring or other obvious damage- If problem remains- Fit a proper mechanical gauge so you can see what is really happening. Doesn't have to be a full, permanent install.- 5 - 10psi hot idle is not ideal but not catastrophic either so long as it quickly climbs and makes 40psi by 2000 rpm. Can likely be improved with decent oil or a can of Wynns but is probably telling you that there is a bottom end rebuild in your future.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 As a short term fix try adding a can of STP oil treatment. It won't do any harm and helps protect worn engines with oil pressure issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Buy some decent 20/50 or 20/60 first. a 1300TC is working very hard and hot on a motorway, so give it the best you can to start with.CheersColin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancepar Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 My pressure relief valve some times sticks on cold start up and I know because the oil light doesn't go out. I remove it inspect it for wear, clean it and after refitting and starting engine, oil light goes out.No problem with a hot engine however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Quoted from Howard As a short term fix try adding a can of STP oil treatment. It won't do any harm and helps protect worn engines with oil pressure issues. I had an engine with rough bearings (so rough, I doubt it had any). My solution was to throw in any oil I found as it was going to die at some point anyway. It mostly got 10w/40 diesel oil from cars we collected. It got worse and to solve that I started putting in STP. It must have been running on that neat in the end. Oil pressure issues went for quite some time, too! I've used it to help troubleshoot more modern cars with suspected low oil pressure a few times. If you know the cause and effects of problems it's a handy tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodders1 Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Had this problem in my first Spitfire. Before panicking about oil-pump or bottom-end rebuilds. try replacing the oil pressure sender.When they fail, they have exactly this pattern of flickering oil light on hot idle which gradually gets worse. Then they start a tell-tale trickle of oil out the back of the sender.An oil pressure gauge will give you an absolute view on what is really happening, but replacing the sender first is a quick and potentially cheap way to peace of mind. (£5.10 from Canleys, part number GPS117) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trubac Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 Thanks very much for all the answers ! sorry for late reply I'm away from wifi here ...Quoted from Nick Jones Does the engine rattle on cold start? If not (or not much) I'd try in order- give the oil a good sniff - does it smell strongly of petrol - has the level gone up? Split fuel pump diaphragm can dilute the oil.Nick Pump diaphragm ? on a 1300TC ?Yes it seems that oil level gone up ... not sure if it is because I ad some also ...Engine doesn't rattle anormally on cold start, it sound very smooth, it rattles hot but it was there before and I think it is a deflector problem (special on the TC)I will try to sender first, and the valve (doesn't look good at all)ThxG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trubac Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 I received the parts and put them on as well as a oil pressure gauge, everything is fine ! very happy got 20/30 at idle and 70 when running.Thanks very much for helping !need to take care of the tak tak at the front but I'm sure it is this strange 1300TC oil trower that got some play... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Good news - simple, cheap fixes are the best!Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver clasper Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 HiI have heard that a bit of knock/rumble on cold start is normal on Triumph engines and not a problem if not revved.Can anyone clarify this please.Cheers, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 I wouldn't call it normal but it is common. It's a sign that the bearing shells and crank journals are wearing and make a noise until the oil arrives. Unfortunately the oiling system design means that the oil takes a little while to arrive. Can be helped with alternative filter arrangements and the right type of filter canister but not always completely cured.Engines can survive a good long time after they start making the cold start rumble if treated with respect during the first few seconds of running.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 If the cars been standing some tome it's good if you pull the HT lead out of the coil and just spin the engine on the starter to get the oil pressure up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Wots needed is a pre fill tank.get till an mek yer self oneM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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