Raider Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 I have fitted an upgrade to my Mk2 2000 which isa braided clutch hose kit but I keep losing the fluid. It's not from the connection at the master cylinder and the second picture shows the pool of fluid on the car port floor from around the slave cylinder area.It's a new slave sylinder and I think the leak is from the connections but I can't tghten them any more than I have. See first picture for the connections which are between the oil filter and sump.Now, there were copper washers supplied but they seemed too big and I still had leaks then so I have removed them.Any ideas? Should I get new copper washers and exactly where should they go if I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Try some PTFE tape around the threads?MUT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikew Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 The input pipe to the slave needs a copper washer. The ID is not too important, providing the washer forms a circular seal under the fitting.Maybe you need to anneal the washer - if its been used once it will harden and be of no use. ALso check the depth of the threads and the hole in the fitting, its possible the fitting is bottoming out in the hole and cannot compress the copper washer enough - do you have any gap between the fitting and the slave if there is no washer fitted.the final check is to see that both the face of the slave and the fitting are smooth, and also that the bore is parallel to the face of the slave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 mikew wrote:The input pipe to the slave needs a copper washer. The ID is not too important, providing the washer forms a circular seal under the fitting.Maybe you need to anneal the washer - if its been used once it will harden and be of no use. ALso check the depth of the threads and the hole in the fitting, its possible the fitting is bottoming out in the hole and cannot compress the copper washer enough - do you have any gap between the fitting and the slave if there is no washer fitted.the final check is to see that both the face of the slave and the fitting are smooth, and also that the bore is parallel to the face of the slaveCorrect....and also it has been known for the two mating surfaces to have different angles on tapered fittings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 The short union that goes into the slave is not really of the type that seals using a copper washer - it should have about 1mm reduction machined on the hexagon bit where it butts against the slave itself. It is possible that the mating faces as Mike suggests are not true and I would recommend the thread where it goes into the slave is sealed with PTFE.Then are you sure that the tapers are all correct because you have two different unions - the short one into the slave and the extension one with a short length of pipe. As VR says these could be to different specs.As a matter of interest where were these unions sourced and are they recommended for your hose. I have a CW hose like yours and there are no sealing problems but I have only the one short union presumably matched by CW for the hose.MUT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Hello Raider, "Now, there were copper washers supplied but they seemed too big and I still had leaks then so I have removed them."The adapter that screws into the slave must have either a copper washer or a dowty washer to get a seal. The copper washer should have a bore that is fairly snug over the threads of the adapter otherwise it will not seal. as you say the supplied ones were too big, that seems to be the problem. See if you can get a washer of the correct size. I don't understand why the supplier doesn't provide the correct attachment to the slave cylinder directly instead of having to use an adapter? Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 Thanks for all your help. I can't remember who supplied the kit as I bought it some time ago ahead of needing it.It will have been either Rimmers or Chris Witor tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 Thanks for all your help. I can't remember who supplied the kit as I bought it some time ago ahead of needing it.It will have been either Rimmers or Chris Witor tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Raider wrote:Thanks for all your help. I can't remember who supplied the kit as I bought it some time ago ahead of needing it.It will have been either Rimmers or Chris Witor thoIf you have any problems we have a hydraulics specialist down the road from us, who make these things up......I dont mean stories, but the hose kits! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted December 7, 2014 Author Share Posted December 7, 2014 Thanks MIke, I'll bear that in mind.I have now tracked down the fact that I bought the kit from Rimmer Bros back in 2012 with some gift vouchers I had been given.This is the kit http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-153671GRI think it's clear in the picture that the washers seem larger than would be expected.Meanwhile Chris Witors equivalent also shows at least one washer but this is more the right size and in situhttp://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=153671RMMaybe next weekend I'll get round to looking at this again and go with the Chris Witor example of where to fit a washer as that looks right to me - it's at the slave cylinder end where I am having the leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 Hello Raider, seeing the Rimmers picture it seems the copper washers are not needed. The adapter should seal on the conical part, not on the hexagon. However, your picture shows that the hexagon is hard onto the face of the slave cylinder, that is not how it should be, there should be a gap. Either the adapter you have is not conical where it goes into the slave cylinder or the thread is too short.A snug copper washer may work as long as the diameter of the hexagon is large enough, i.e. there is enough land for the washer to seal on.PS, just had a thought, if the adapter has unequal length threads, possibly you have it back to front, long goes to the slave cylinder and short to the flexible?Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 How much....? ??)I have the brake hoses made up at around £11.00 each so for another foot I`m sure it would`nt be an additional twenty odd pounds....In fact I think we have a clutch hose made up like that one.......you could have had for a few beers.......oh, bearing in mind Philip`s thirst Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted December 7, 2014 Author Share Posted December 7, 2014 michael_charlton wrote:How much....? ??)I have the brake hoses made up at around £11.00 each so for another foot I`m sure it would`nt be an additional twenty odd pounds....In fact I think we have a clutch hose made up like that one.......you could have had for a few beers.......oh, bearing in mind Philip`s thirst That's the thing tho when people buy vouchers as presents.This year we are giving cash so we can spend the gift wherever you like ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shed 1969 Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 I agree with the above- I fitted one on my 2000 it required a washer as the fitting supplied "bottomed out" before sealing if you see what I mean - so use a decent washer and dont forget to anneal it .......it could also be arse about tit as Alec says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 How do I anneal the washer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Bringing to red heat allowing to cool is sufficient for copper as it will only be work hardened, if hard, so it is just stress relief that is required.Rate of cooling is not critical for copper annealing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Raider wrote:How do I anneal the washer? As I teacher I always taught that it should be heated to a cherry red and plunged into cold water. When I used to run JAP and Matchless engined Morgan three wheelers we only ever use copper head gaskets and this was the way we annealed them.MUT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shed 1969 Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 I was always taught cherry red dip in cold water..even cold water with a bit of oil in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bxbodger Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 That braided thing with adaptors and washers looks like a right lash up! Your best option for getting something that actually works without leaking, having to anneal washers, etc?Throw that thing in the bin and take the original pipe with its unions down to any half-sensible spares shop, they'll make you another with the correct unions for under a tenner, it'll take them no time at all......fit and forget! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 I replaced my plastic one with a bit of copper pipe . Just flared the ends as per original.No problems since.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hello Tony, are you saying that you have no flexible pipe in the line? I would expect that sooner or later it will crack, even if you have a loop at the slave end?Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 The small chassis cars only have solid line. I've never seen why the big saloons are different from them or lots of other cars on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hello Ferny, I wasn't aware of that but most of the cars I've known have a short flexible hose between the slave and the solid pipe, it just seems sensible?Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Hi Alec,Had the copper pipe on for about 3 years. Got a much better clutch release since I binned the original red plastic one which I suspect expanded when it got hot. No clutch drag now cold or hot.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Hello Tony, I agree about the plastic pipe, I have copper also, but with a short hose at the slave end.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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