Rubce Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Hi AllI have been cleaning up the diff off our Gt6. It ha a serial no. FRI1141 stamped into the casing. I believe this marks it as a 3.63:1 ratio. When I checked this by turning the input flange, it took just under 3 turns to rotate the output flange once. I am confused as I expected it to just over 3.5 turns. Am I doing something wrong?I intend to replace the pinion and output seals. Does anybody have any advice for me regarding that task?ThanksBruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Numbers on casing don't necessarily coincide with contents which could well have been changed at some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Try turning both output flanges together, and see how many turns the input does? possibly a bit more reliable?If a 3.63 is is likely to have a collapsible spacer for setting the CWP. I believe the way to renew the seal is to count the EXACT number of turns to undo the nyloc at the front, replace the seal, and then replace the nyloc in EXACTLY the same position. If not the diff will need setting up. (by somebody who knows about diffs!)Do not try torquing it up, the spacer will just keep collapsing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share Posted December 12, 2012 HiThe diff still has the castle nut and plit pin arrangement fitted on the input flange. I suppose the idea of counting the number of turns could still apply though.RegardsBruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 2806 wrote:HiThe diff still has the castle nut and plit pin arrangement fitted on the input flange. I suppose the idea of counting the number of turns could still apply though.RegardsBruceIf it is castleated nut it is not 3.63. Those all had nylock and colapsable spacer the older version you have you has solid spacer on these you torque the nut up.Laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nilfisken Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Can I borrow the thread quickly and check one thing?When replacing the front seal on a diff with collapsible spacer is the Nyloc to be reused or replaced with a new one turned the same amount of turns as the old one?Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 3182 wrote:Can I borrow the thread quickly and check one thing?When replacing the front seal on a diff with collapsible spacer is the Nyloc to be reused or replaced with a new one turned the same amount of turns as the old one?Cheers!Old one, preferable with a drop of Loctite.Laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 dont try and count alone, indent wid center punch, then count and turn till indents match.In theory a collapsable spacer has a cover over it, but some one who has built it upwith out knowing this, may have got a C spacer with no cover,or wrong nut.unless its being stipped oot, then treat as an uknown itemM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Gt6s wrote:Old one, preferable with a drop of Loctite.LaurenceYou mean... the old Nyloc just Loctited in place?? Why not a new one? They should be cheap enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Because a new nut may have the thread start point at any position in relation to the flats, and it also may be deeper or shallower, in relation to the face of the nut, than the old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 sparky_spit wrote:Because a new nut may have the thread start point at any position in relation to the flats, and it also may be deeper or shallower, in relation to the face of the nut, than the old one.Correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 Gotcha now; I thought we were setting up from scratch and therefore a new nut wouldn't have made any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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