johnmosborneuk Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 How much force should it take? I took heed of all the warnings about using generic pulling tools and bought the pulling tool from Canleys.I locked the half shaft in the vice, wound the nyloc hub nut back to the end of the half shaft (leaving it on the end to protect the threads and stop the hub from flying off), fitted the tool with the wheel nuts then proceeded to tighten the tools bolt with a long breaker bar but then rather that the hub releasing from the shaft I got to a point where the bolt wouldn't tighten any more or loosen off!.I must be doing something wrong but I don't know what Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 apply Heat Lots of Heat.... Then get read for pop... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 me bouncing all my weight on a 3ft breaker bar, with a 2ft tube on the end was barely enough to shift it.And when it goes, be ready or it will hurt. A lot.Load it up and tap it with a hanner.CheersColin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmosborneuk Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Thanks guys, it sounds like the oxy-propane kit needs to come out to play along with a bigger bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 As the scrapman said (well almost) tighten as much as possible with a pipe extension on the bar and strike the bolt with a LARGE hammer hard. I'd try to avoid heat if at all possible. Easier to remove with the axle in place IMHO.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 or just leave ir under compression overnight, i may pop of when youre not lookingalways tap the studs out and run a flat file over the flange to make sure the puller has nor deformed the drum face , even with the dreanought puller it can still upset this face Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallyspit Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 FWIW, I recently had success (twice!) using the Churchill tool, tightening the centre bolt as far as possible and then putting my Clarke air wrench with the correct socket on the number 1 torque setting and just left it chugging over. It took about 15 minutes and the hub came off undamaged and without any drama. Only did it because I wanted to fit GT6 backplates. Always use a new nut on the shaft when you re-tighten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmosborneuk Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 Thanks for that, I'll try again at the weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James1500 Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 You'll need to give it a whack to shock it loose preferably with a copper mallet while it's under tension Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 Hello John, I agree with Tony:- " strike the bolt with a LARGE hammer hard. I'd try to avoid heat if at all possible."Personally, I wouldn't use a copper hammer as it doesn't have the same force as a decent steel hammer, I just dress the puller' screw head if it mushrooms.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmosborneuk Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 As things stand it seems that the threads of the puller are jammed inside the tool itself even with the tool completely removed from the hub the centre bolt won't budge at all in either direction I'm waiting for a response from Canley's about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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