LouisW Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 Welded in a sill plate onto the other side of the car now.I also started the rebuild on my front suspension but unfortunately no pics! I'll get some tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouisW Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Well I finally rebuild the front suspension on the passenger side with new bushes, bolts, refurbed calipers, new hoses and grease caps. Was I right in hand tightening the castle nut and then backing off a little bit? No wobble from bearings etc thankfully. I did notice however that the when I turn the hub, the disk rubs on the pads inside the caliper? I can manually "move" the pads off with my fingers. There is no brake fluid or anything in the system as I've only just put it back together. Is my TRE correct too? The seal seems a bit "squashed" to this side? Guess it will change when steered? My tracking is way out as well with the wheel straight inside the car too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 The upper ball joint is still loose.I check bearing play with the wheel on gives you more feel, nip it up just enough to take out the play then back off to next castlellation, there should be some play.Great thread, thanks for all the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Quoted from GT6 The upper ball joint is still loose, I check bearing play with the wheel on gives you more feel.Great thread, thanks for all the pics. That's right, when you adjust it Louis you can have that you don't feel any play.. But then when the wheel is on .. you can feel a lot 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Bit late now you have done it. But the OE sill end plate has a crease in it with a shallow bend. Proberbly why you found it difficult to make/fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouisW Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 I had tightened the top balljoint after this picture was taken! Needed the threads on the balljoint cleaning with a wire brush. I'll be sure to pop the wheel on and feel for play. Richard - I did add a crease into the sill end plate on the second one I made and it took a lot less longer to do. It still needs tidying up as its a bit messy with my welds but its strong. I'm happy to have made them myself as every little helps! Thanks again for all the comments. Louis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouisW Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 I've finally got her back on four wheels after rebuilding the suspension on the drivers side. It's nice to have her back like this! Gives me more motivation to keep moving forward but i'm going to uni next week so wont get any chance to play again until Christmas. 🙁I have also made a start on the rust at the rear radius arm bracket. Need to plug weld this part in to the boxed section behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouisW Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Well since I last updated I have welded in the rear radius arm bracket and cleaned up the radius arm itself putting in new bolts(Bushes looked fine). I also today welded up the hole near the rotoflex radius arm fitting on the body. I painted it all black today, and then put underseal on the underside. It doesn't look pretty but I just want to make sure it doesn't rust again. You wont see this anyway under the carpet so not to worry.I have oiled my trunnions at the front, and checked my wheel bearings and everything seems to be OK.Looks better than it was before, I'm very happy with this! I started painting the bonnet too and it's looking more like a car again. I am really happy with the fitment of the bonnet, aswell as the fitment of my valances which I tested today! Those valances are fibreglass aswell and cost me 99p on the Bay Also test fitted my bonnet latches which I'm happy to say also fit well. I also welded up the sheet metal inner of the rear quarters from inside the boot as when I did it, it hadn't been very strong as i'd struggled with the leaning over welding and lack of light. I proceeded to then put tetra schutz on the areas where I have welded (front bulkhead, rear radius arm, boot, inner sills) will this be OK? I had zinc primed first but I felt this just completely sealed any pinholes etc which existed. Was I wrong to do this?It's put my mind at ease really as it's one less thing to worry about and looks much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouisW Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 Not updated in a while as im away for uni and only get back at term times.Here's a quick photoshop of the look im hoping to go towards with the spitfire.Unsure on the black wheels but i quite like the colour and the stance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byakk0 Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 Fixing up a Triumph and doing school at the same time is a tough proposition. But, if you are away, then it can be even harder. 😉Good to hear from you Louis. I've barely made any progress myself, partly due to school. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 Quoted from LouisW Not updated in a while as im away for uni and only get back at term times.Here's a quick photoshop of the look im hoping to go towards with the spitfire.Unsure on the black wheels but i quite like the colour and the stance. I don't think I would be able to get that out of my garage let alone drive it on a road without smashing the underside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouisW Posted December 23, 2014 Author Share Posted December 23, 2014 Yeah its a little too low in that Photoshop, was just a play around really on the ride height. The main thing is colour which I'm focused on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Louis,It is going to take serious chassis frame mods to get the rear down near to that level without obvious negative camber. Alternatively you can go with Rotoflex type rear suspension, but I suspect that too will need some mods to work well when set near that level. Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byakk0 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 These are low enough as it is, let alone dropping them that far. If you are interested in getting it that low, consider steering, for one, as well as vertical tyre travel. You may want to install airbaga in liu of suspension, as per low-riders over here in the states. Looks like a lot of chassis modifications to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouisW Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Right, bit of a bummer of a day today to be honest. I crawled under the car today properly for once with a torch and have seen the full extent of rust. Fortunately there doesn't seem to be any structural rust underneath, just surface however it's ALL over the rear suspension, chassis, everything. I also noticed that the diff is moist at the bottom, so leaking some oil? It's put me down really seeing how bad it is under there and i dont know how to progress from here if i'm honest. Any help would be great. It would be best if i took the body off but i just dont have the space to do this.Pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Its not the surface rust that will give you problems now, its the rust between the panels, where they join.If you are not going for a frame off-resto, I would take off the complete rear suspension/diff and then get the car up on some better and safer ramps, than the small ones you are using now (bricks, wood etc - bring your friends, and lift it, its not that heavy, when the rear suspension has been removed.Then its just days (*edit*: Weeks...) of joy ahead with a grinder/what ever. And cleaning. And sealing. And painting ... You won't be able to do the frame on the top, but use some good wax oil or equal when dry.And. Don't forget to drill extra drain holes at the lower part of the main chassis rails and the box section behind the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byakk0 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Louis, build a support rack like mine. You can roll it out when you want to work on the car, and store the chassis underneath. Lets you stack them, essentially.Just be sure to have support rails under the car, and have your doors braced so you don't get your tub sagging. I just built a rotisserie, and made it the same way. Open on one end so it can fit over the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouisW Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Righto' making a start on removing the rear suspension. I am only at home until sunday so won't be able to get that far along but i can atleast get somewhere. I have made an order list and was wondering if you guys could say whether this is all the right stuff and enough for the rear suspension overhaul? I am also wondering how to remove the bolts from the drive flange? Do I have to get right under the car as it's quite difficult to reach from just under the arch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Louis,You will need two of 514370Cheers,Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 I would avoid new rubber bushes due to quality; reuse old ones if they are not to bad, or buy poly/superflex.Rear brakes: Shoes, springs, U-clamps for the slave cylinder + dust cap? hold-down-kit and all hand brake parts?Flat nuts and chock washers for brake hoses? Old ones not good for reuse.Studs for the spacer block?If you are taking diff out, you will need 3x jpr303... but make sure they are the correct size (don't know year of your car). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simo101 Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Any Updates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byakk0 Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I think Louis is off at university. He updates as he can. I'm eager to know myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simo101 Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Ahh okay fair enough! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouisW Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 Well i've pulled the whole rear of the spit apart, and found that the yolk on one of the flanges on the driveshaft was cracked so this means a new driveshaft... yawn. Going to get the hubs split, check the bearings if OK as the oil catchers had rusted through and im worried water has gone. I have also dropped the diff which has been wire brushed but still has surface rust. I think the I will replace the front seal on the diff as it's leaking (presumably from this). The oil which came out of it was like honey, and black so will also be replaced!It's not looking too good under the spit though, dont fancy going under there too much with a grinder though on my back... Advice?I also split the rear leaf spring apart and started painting it. White, as that's all i had at hand! Oh well, wont be visible once in so that doesn't matter Just need to replace the spacer tubes, bolts and buttons between the leaves. Not much else going on really as i've been at university. Hope to progress some more over the next few days, but wont be doing anything more for another couple of months unfortunately.CheersLouis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 You can replace the buttons with teflon ones - I just bought a set from a Czech guy on eBay. He sells them as either standard thickness or, for cars with saggy rear ends, thicker. A little bit of grease and Robert's your mother's brother! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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