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Cheapest High-Torque Starter?


Rumpith

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Quoted from MarkDeTriomphe


I fitted mine with no skimming at all.  Just used the mounting plate from a saloon - seems fine so far.


It fits with no skimming, and will start the engine, but when I measured the throw on the pinion and the distance to the ring gear, it showed that the pinion was only meshing about 5-6 mm into the ring gear.  A sure route to early failure of one or both components.
  
I cannot remember how much I got removed from the spacer but it was enough to ensure that the pinion would be fully meshed into the ring gear.

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Quoted from ferny
What was the skim/finishing size?


Can't remember.
I applied power to the solenoid and measured the fullest extent of the pinion, then measured the distance through the starter mounting hole from the engine back-plate to the ring gear, and then calculated how thick the spacer needed to be to make sure the the pinion would be fully meshed into the ring gear.

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Honest question (as in, not trying to stir anything up) but why?

The original starters on these were more than adequate and you can get a full service kit, that takes about an hour to fit, for a tenner or so which will restore full power.  If there's still a starting problem after that then surely you're just masking some other issue by cranking it harder?

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Quoted from spunkymonkey
Honest question (as in, not trying to stir anything up) but why?

The original starters on these were more than adequate and you can get a full service kit, that takes about an hour to fit, for a tenner or so which will restore full power.  If there's still a starting problem after that then surely you're just masking some other issue by cranking it harder?




They weigh a ton, draw a huge amount of power and are big buggers.  Fitting a shiny manifold is simpler with the extra space.

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Fair one - although only the weight really makes sense in my case (although I'd have to leave the pies alone to make a few lbs under the bonnet count 🤔 ) .  

Power draw shouldn't be a problem if the battery / charging system works and the engine starts as it should cos even a 200 amp draw is only .05 AH per second - that's a nominal 10 minutes or so from a 35 AH battery* and if it hasn't started by then.... 😀

As for the size and manifold considerations, they don't really hold for the FWDs cos who wants a manifold pointing out the front of the grille anyway? 😀




* yes, I know the battery rating won't hold at that sort of current draw but the point is there's lots of safety margin in the original design!

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Quoted from spunkymonkey
Honest question (as in, not trying to stir anything up) but why?


Fair question.

The reason I switched to a high torque starter is for cold starting.  My cold start routine is to crank the engine until the oil light goes out, then give it some gas and a little choke and fire it up.  I do this simply to preserve the engine because I cannot abide the rattle of a triumph engine running with no oil pressure for a second or two at cold start.
My engine has a higher than standard compression ratio.  The Lucas starter used to struggle a bit in this scenario.  It was probably on its way out anyway, so a switch to a cheap high-torque starter was the way to go for me.


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Quoted from bodders1


It fits with no skimming, and will start the engine, but when I measured the throw on the pinion and the distance to the ring gear, it showed that the pinion was only meshing about 5-6 mm into the ring gear.  A sure route to early failure of one or both components.
  
I cannot remember how much I got removed from the spacer but it was enough to ensure that the pinion would be fully meshed into the ring gear.


Did you start with the 1500 spacer or a saloon version which is quite a bit thinner?

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Quoted from bodders1


Hi Mark.  I used a 1500 spacer.  No idea what size the saloon spacer is.  I don't have a barn full of donor cars like you


That would explain it - with a saloon spacer, the pinion meshes almost all the way so there seemed little point in skimming.

Unfortunately, it makes using one of these starters on a saloon a bit more difficult.

BTW I'm hurt that you think I'd use any of my cars as donors 😉

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Quoted from Richard B
Toyota Carina & Corolla from the 80's with the Canley conversion kit.

or the Isuzu Trooper with a bit of machining.

9 teeth and make sure it rotates the correct way!




Something like this



Take care ...

Corolla starters can be too big for the standard conversion kit (mine was) - although I believe it is possible to get the larger parts machined - hopefully Dave could confirm.

Also, note that starters from the likes of Suburu and Rover may look similar but will turn the wrong way and may have the wrong number of teeth.

As stated above, you don't actually need to do any machining with the Isuzu Trooper motor and neither does it require a conversion kit - so if you can find one in a scrappy it's probably the best bet for 4 cyl cars.

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