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My GT6 restoration thread -updated 7/3/08


byakk0

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Did some minor sanding and installed the bonnet again so I can really start the bodywork. Also put on one of the doors (still need to rebuild the other one). The two doors and bonnet are off my donor GT6 (which was originally dark green, then blue, then white, then silver judging by the paint layers)

The black sections are just to prevent rust spots from getting worse until I get to them...

As had been predicted here, the front SU carb is a bit too tall and is hitting the hood, so I'll have to take the shims out of the engine mounts to get an extra 1/2" or so hopefully. If that doesn't work, I'll either get Dolly Sprint tops or will cut the front down just a bit.

Also today picked up a new throttle cable for the Mk3 accelerator that I'm switching to. Got the cable off a Toyota Tercel at a junkyard and it looks like it will work perfectly. Might have to shorten it a bit, but we'll see how I decide to route it.



Here's with the front left spring seats at the lowest (slammed) setting. And keep in mind it's this low without any interior/seats/bumpers. Clearance is tight, very tight. Should be better after I adjust the camber up front to more negative. Also will raise it up about 1 1/2 inches once I get closer to the car being ready to drive...

keep in mind here that the hood still is about 1" open (sitting on some towels to keep it off the carb top).....

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timbancroft61 wrote:
I don't think you will have any space to lower the engine, it would sit on the steering rack.

I think Dolly Sprint dashpots are necessary.

The car is starting to look good.


there is almost 1 inch of clearance between the oilpan and steering rack right now...so I'll see what happens and go from there!

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took out the engine mount shims today and raised the hood to the highest setting on the front hinges. As of right now with the SUs the hood closes and latches fine, but there is only about 1/8" of clearance with the top of the dashpot on the front carb at the moment. I'll probably cut down the top another 1/8" or so and that should be enough.

Also hooked up the new throttle pedal (From a Mk3) and cable (from a Toyota) and everything moves smoothly, so very happy about that!

Happy Independence Day from you blokes! :) j/k

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some new pics. Made some progress over the last week:

finished off the driver's side door sanding, priming, and installing new window runnrs and weatherstripping



installed windshield frame with new seals, etc...



as some may remember me saying earlier, at some point about 20 years ago the metal dash backing frame was cut out of the car (don't ask me why...). So, I had to replace it using the frame cut out of my parts GT6. I was going to weld it in, but as it turns out using several through-bolts seems to work fine (and will allow me to take it out if I ever need to). I may eventually weld it, but don't have the equipment right now..



did a few other things, but the interior still needs a ton of work



overall, it's starting to look like a car again!





the great black fleet...

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more done today:

- put oil in the engine and Redline MT-90 into the transmission
- did about 50% of the wiring for the car (fun fun) including all engine bay wiring and most of the dash wiring.
- installed part of the dash (it's not pretty, but I'll make a nice new one this winter)
- finished the "stuff" on the engine firewall platform (clutch/brake MCs, new cable throttle setup, relocated coil, installed starter solenoid
- ordered an Optima Red Top battery, new carpeting, and new weatherstripping for the entire car (and some other parts)
- test-fitted transmission tunnel and dash center console/radio bracket
- the new exhaust arrived. I would have liked one of the stainless setups, but with the exchange rate (GBP/$$) that will happen at another time. I went cheap and just picked up a Monza straight-through setup. I plan to cut off the dual tips on each split and just have single chrome finishers, one on each side...

also started prepping the engine to start...fluids, opened up the plug holes and sprayed some liquid wrench into the cylinders and throughout the day slowly turned the crank by hand. Turned over easily and smoothly, I'm happy to say!

AND....drove up to Annapolis to pick up a NOS cylinder head that I got for an absolute steal! Over the winter this will go to the machine shop for some...er..."modifications" including a shave  8) For the time being I will keep the original (all stock) head on the car while I get it running.

all in all, a productive day!

the engine bay with more stuff installed



the interior at the moment. Before you ask...yes, most of the floorpans are fiberglass. This car once had terminal rust and drastic measures were taken. Now I never have to worry about that again! And since this will be a "fun" car and occasional racer (no concourse) I'm not real worried about "authenticity." i'lll look the same under the carpet :)



the exhaust



new engine head, still in the original cosmolene wrapping

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doesn't seem too bad, there are a few videos on youtube of GT6s with that exhaust (the guys misspelled it "Manza" in the title). Sounds almost like a Harley, actually, lol..

Loud exhaust drowns out all the body rattles, haha. I have other cars to drive if I want peace and quiet!

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The wiring is more or less done (a few loose ends to tie up, but nothing significant), and I picked up a new battery today. Got an Optima Red Top (25 series), which has some serious cold cranking power (which this car needs!).

After hooking everything up I did a few quick tests. Not much to test yet since most of the lighting is not installed yet, so I tested the windshield wipers and also a quick hit of the new starter button to click the solenoid and make sure its getting power...

I think, though, that I might junk the original Lucas alternator, which takes alot of power to crank, and switch to a NipponDenso unit (from the 1989 Isuzu Trooper) that supposedly is a direct bolt-on.



Also installed the gas tank and finished running all fuel lines. And hung the rear section of the exhaut....man I hate the 4 tips. That will be remedied as soon as I can drive the car to a muffler shop!

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Why is your coil on the bulkhead?
Where'd you get the stub stacks for the carbs?
What that with the red metallic band around the wiper motor?
Why don't you get sbarc to find you a radio?
Where is the intake manifold vacuum line going?
Whey don't you like the back of your car to look like a harmonica?

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rotoflex wrote:
Why is your coil on the bulkhead?
Where'd you get the stub stacks for the carbs?
What that with the red metallic band around the wiper motor?
Why don't you get sbarc to find you a radio?
Where is the intake manifold vacuum line going?
Whey don't you like the back of your car to look like a harmonica?


slow down chap!

- coil is on the bulkhead because....ok to be honest because I've seen alot of GT6s with it there and thought it looked good. I imagine that it also maybe a little bit helps the weight distro, getting everything away from the front of the lump (the battery will go to the rear eventually)
- stub stacks came with the carbs that I bought off a local GT6er who changed to PI. Also have the really big stacks (posted a pic farther up this thread). I can check where ge got them, but I'm thinking Triumph Tune perhaps?
- the red band is just the stock metal band. It was pitted and rusty so I didn't want to paint it with silver where all the pits would show up. So I used some dark red pearl stuff that hides the pits :)
- I have the original radio, which will be mounted in the original spot. I might remove the "guts" and just put the faceplate there, and mount a modern radio head unit elsewhere (hidden)
- The IM vac line isn't going anywhere right now...it's just blocked off. Trying to decide whether to keep the crankcase breather or re-install the silly diaphram emissions valve thing (I don't have emissions inspection for this car)
- I'm thinking of adding two more tailpipes :)

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My Mk1 GT6 threw a wobbly last summer and cut out on the motorway all due to the coil being in its original position by the engine and getting too hot.

A damned sensible decision to place it on the bulkhead.  My one is there now and the car has been happy since and runs much more smoothly on hot days because of it.  Did a 100 miles on Sunday and 50 on Monday in it, both hot days, happy as Larry. ;D

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the new tires came in today. Not alot of selection in the small sizes for these cars, but the upside is that you can get a reasonable-performing tire for a whopping $30/tire  :X

These will do the job until I upgrade to a 14x6 wheel over the winter and a more aggressive tire..

as you can see in the background, also coming along on some of the bodywork, paint, and interior. A full-car new carpet set also came in, but that won't go in until I get some of my soundproofing/heatshielding material installed. Most of the interior will be getting b-quiet soundproofing...basically dynamat made in Canada and waay less expensive. Thanks to Andre's excellent site for that tip....



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  • 3 weeks later...

moving along with some interior, carpeting, got one side of the car sanded and rattle-canned, put some trim and lighting back on.....

Once I rebuild the clutch m/c and bleed the brakes I may be ready to take it around the block (fingers crossed)

interior as it looks at the moment, inluding the radio bracket, transmission tunnel, and new "parcel shelf" installed



some exterior shots on the "good" side of the car. The other side and hood are still primer and have more sanding to do on them...







bought a new toy the other day too, since my Aluminum race jack is broken and my other floor jack is just too puny!
This monster weighs a hefty 99lbs!



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irish44j wrote:
moving along with some interior, carpeting, got one side of the car sanded and rattle-canned, put some trim and lighting back on.....

some exterior shots on the "good" side of the car. The other side and hood are still primer and have more sanding to do on them...





Very nice.....but those front marker lights just won't do....   ;)
Come on....you know you want to....

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