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Electric fuel pumps


Greeks

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Facet Silver Red or Blue tops all shove out 6-8 psi.....great pumps but you will need a regulator to maintain 3 psi

http://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/facet-fuel-pumps/facet-cylindrical-pump-12v-24v/


Cube or solid state pumps don't need a regulator as rated 3-4.5 psi...just ok for SU's with good gaskets on the float bowls 😉

http://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/facet-fuel-pumps/facet-solid-state-pump-12v-24v/


Don't forget its supply on demand and the Facets flow very well IE cope with vapour lock on a hot engine, compare that with a mechanical pump that maxes out at 2.5 psi and pap modern fuel that evaporates as you look at it

I use a silver top and a regulator set at 3psi......no probs on a hot and sticky 1500 spit

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Great info, thanks.

Quoted from uksnatcher
Facet Silver Red or Blue tops all shove out 6-8 psi.....great pumps but you will need a regulator to maintain 3 psi

http://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/facet-fuel-pumps/facet-cylindrical-pump-12v-24v/


Cube or solid state pumps don't need a regulator as rated 3-4.5 psi...just ok for SU's with good gaskets on the float bowls 😉

http://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/facet-fuel-pumps/facet-solid-state-pump-12v-24v/


Don't forget its supply on demand and the Facets flow very well IE cope with vapour lock on a hot engine, compare that with a mechanical pump that maxes out at 2.5 psi and pap modern fuel that evaporates as you look at it

I use a silver top and a regulator set at 3psi......no probs on a hot and sticky 1500 spit


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Them links are just for info Greeks, as you will see some of the solid state pumps will offer way to much PSI for the SU's to handle. SU's are rated at around 4 psi max, my 5 psi silver top on max makes the float bowl gaskets leak, 4psi they 'sweat' with old gaskets....3psi no probs

Shop about and the solid state pumps designed for carbs are very affordable without extra expense of the regulator....I just wanted a bit of control of the fuel pressure hence the way I went

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Quoted from Nick Jones
Huco normally get a mention

http://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop.....2v-fuel-pump-133010/

Dunno what is available in Oz.  Why not stick with the mechanical one?

Nick


After 18 months of a continual problem (what seems to be fuel starvation in hot temperatures at high rpm and particularly when running up steep hills!) that I can't seem to rectify any other way, I figure it's the next option. My spare mechanical pumps are beyond economical repair and the electrical route seems as cheap as mechanical.

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My prob was standing traffic/hot conditions no airflow past carbs coupled with low revs with the mechanical pump, also sartup from hot engine. Double skinned heat shield helped but still had to fit elec pump.

Upgrading to an extractor/branch manifold created even more heat but i had fitted the elec pump, and happy days.....primes the carbs almost instantly,  i assume the saloon has the same heat issues?

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Is the problem affected by tank level at all - ie better with a full tank?  Modern fuel, especially that containing ethanol, which seems to be most these days, is very prone to vaporisation and the tank outlet can be restrictive.  Possibly the combination of temperature (worse in Oz than here!) and fuel volatility also cause cavitation in the valves of the mechanical pump, spoiling it's efficiency.  Doubt it's vaporisation after the pump when running hard.  It's not just running lean at the top end due to needle selection is it?

Lot's of folks had vaporisation problems in the mountains on the 10CR 2013, which seemed to be related to crap fuel with lots of ethanol mixed with highish temps and high altitude.

Nick

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hi ive fitted a facet posi flow 1.5 to 4psi model no 60104 in the boot of my mk2 2500 £30 ebay, admittedly i havnt driven it on the road yet as ive got more work to do. but it primes instantly no noise but you must use anti vibe mounts and fit it near the fuel tank, il see how it goes when the cars on the road

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Quoted from Nick Jones
Is the problem affected by tank level at all - ie better with a full tank?  Modern fuel, especially that containing ethanol, which seems to be most these days, is very prone to vaporisation and the tank outlet can be restrictive.  Possibly the combination of temperature (worse in Oz than here!) and fuel volatility also cause cavitation in the valves of the mechanical pump, spoiling it's efficiency.  Doubt it's vaporisation after the pump when running hard.  It's not just running lean at the top end due to needle selection is it?

Lot's of folks had vaporisation problems in the mountains on the 10CR 2013, which seemed to be related to crap fuel with lots of ethanol mixed with highish temps and high altitude.

Nick


There's no ethanol in the 98 octane fuel here ... apparently. But, the worst it's been was yesterday when my wife had the problem at high temps at 2,500 rpm up a very steep hill ... and fuel light was flashing.

I don't see how the needle selection would relate to heat and hills...?

However, this talk of float bowls reminds me the gaskets could definitely be replaced. Could they be leaking on hills?

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In the saloon the bottom of the tank is at a very similar level to the fuel pump, so when the tank is full the pump has hardly any work to do.  Perhaps more importantly it doesn't have to suck at all which makes it much less likely that the fuel will turn to vapour.  Also, warm fuel turns to vapour more easily than cool fuel.

The needle comment isn't directly related and is probably a red herring if the car has previously run well with the same needles fitted.

Nick

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As ever Don your kind and insightful advice is amazingly ... erm ... insightful. However, whilst perfectly sound from a technical perspective (and i've run this past a few mechanical engineer friends, don't worry) my back of the envelope calculations, rough as they are, suggest that a ~$100 electronic fuel pump, or even a $500 carburettor overhaul and a solemn promise to pay more due attention to maintenance, is considerably cheaper than a replacement wife.

Of course there's the exchange rate to consider, because it depends on where you source the new wife from, but regardless, what I discovered after perusing the normally closed books of the divorce courts, is that wives ... you won't believe this bit ... actually appreciate in value, rather than depreciate! And bizarrely, their value follows no normal economic rules. That is, when global commodity prices drop, spousal values actually remain exactly the same. When supply increases, no change. Incredible.

Nope. I'm stuck with a wife that first saw my car before she saw me and made a huge assumption that i'd be worth meeting, and then, once ensnared, let me buy another the same as soon as I arrived in her country ... even though I had no proper job 😎 (And she's even potentially entertaining CV axle and hub upgrades - for the car of course, not her... or me.)

PS - please send me your Huco - i'll PM my address to you.

Quoted from Don Cook
"...when my wife had the problem at high temps..."

Hi Graham, get a new wife if that's all the problem is.

I have a Hucco fitted to my GT6, fit and forget, no regulator required.


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Mr Reeks,

I second Mr Cook's advice (about the Huco), bless him eh!

Have a Huco on the Saloon and the GT6, no faffing around with regulators, no issues. The saloon's Huco is hung of the block, whilst the GT6's is hung of an engine bay valance. Both work very well, The Saloon romped up the Dolomites last 10CR!

As I said on another thread, good to hear from you.

BTW I understand Mr MacDonald is still on the planet!

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