CRAJ Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Just to muddy the waters, my Dad had problems with his mk1 2000 which were similar to yours Greeks, fuel starvation/vapourisation in hot weather, traffic jams on the M25 etc. Fuel visible in the glass bowl of the pump and nothing obvious. It eventually started happening when I was with him and we found that the diaphragm in the pump although not split was delaminating as such and there was fuel between the layers. This made the pump struggle to pump. One repair kit later from Fitchetts and it has been fault free since.Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Ahhh, so you can get repair kits for the pumps, I assume you are talking about the standard mechanical one Colin??I am on the third pump in 'Poo' I have found the fuel eats up the inside rubber and plastic bits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 Quoted from CRAJ Just to muddy the waters, my Dad had problems with his mk1 2000 which were similar to yours Greeks, fuel starvation/vapourisation in hot weather, traffic jams on the M25 etc. Fuel visible in the glass bowl of the pump and nothing obvious. It eventually started happening when I was with him and we found that the diaphragm in the pump although not split was delaminating as such and there was fuel between the layers. This made the pump struggle to pump. One repair kit later from Fitchetts and it has been fault free since.Colin That's a good point, Colin... now I think about it the diaphragm was separating, I was a bit fixated on the wobbly valve though so didn't pay too much attention at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Hi GuysWith our Stag and its standard electric fuel pump, when starting the car I let the pump prime the carbs before turning engine over. It usually catches first time. With the GT6, the engine has to crank over several times before the mechanical pump gets the fuel to the carbs. If I fitted an electric fuel pump to the GT6 would I get better starting as per the Stag?With regards to Huggo pumps, is the 133010 model the one to go for?RegardsBruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Hello Bruce, yes it should, if all else is good.Reliant Scimitars have the same problem, needing a lot of cranking to start if left for a while, many owners just fit an electric pump with a switch just to prime the carburettor, leaving the mechanical pump as a main.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Is there a difference between the HUCO front and rear mount pumps? I bought one for my Vitesse that I was going to mount on the engine block, but have since changed plans to mount in the boot along with a Malpassi Filter King and pressure regulator (This is a bit of future proofing as long term the car will go back to having Webers on), but will the HUCO pump be okay mounted at the back in the boot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Cant see a problem Jon, it will probably work a little harder mounted at the rear but its a quality pump and its still pushing 2.2psi and more importantly good flowrate mounted at the tank according to this, no need to regulate tho, leave it fully open:http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/HUCO.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Quoted from piman Hello Bruce, yes it should, if all else is good.Reliant Scimitars have the same problem, needing a lot of cranking to start if left for a while, many owners just fit an electric pump with a switch just to prime the carburettor, leaving the mechanical pump as a main.Alec So, perhaps I'm way off here, but I thought a bit of cranking was a good thing in that it allowed the oil pressure to build up before giving any revs. 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Thanks for the link Gaz, I had not seen that before.As I said, having the pressure regulator is future proofing for when I get the new engine in on the triple Webers, without having to change the pump set up (hopefully). I already have the HUCO pump, but I have got the Malpassi Filter King with built in pressure regulator and a removable dial as well for accurately(ish) setting the pressure. I have a fuel tap too so I can cut the fuel off at the tank so I can help stop the fuel syphoning back etc.I'll stick some photos up when I get round to it!Quoted from uksnatcher Cant see a problem Jon, it will probably work a little harder mounted at the rear but its a quality pump and its still pushing 2.2psi and more importantly good flowrate mounted at the tank according to this, no need to regulate tho, leave it fully open:http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/HUCO.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Hello Jonny, I think that, like the S.U. pump, you need to pick the right one depending on front or rear positioning. (They look like an S.U. copy?)Greeks, I only worry about that after an oil change, otherwise I see no problem.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Hmm, I'll have to see which one I bought, I'm 99% certain I bought a front mount one... which is damn annoying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin M Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Hardi, fit forget and much cheaper than Facet.http://www.ebay.de/itm/Elektri.....l363w#ht_1661wt_1102No problens in feeding triple weber in Summer in stuck traffic with 38 degrees outside.Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo Hmm, I'll have to see which one I bought, I'm 99% certain I bought a front mount one... which is damn annoying. It wil be perfectly fine mounted at the back Jon, bung it on.Quoted from Greeks So, perhaps I'm way off here, but I thought a bit of cranking was a good thing in that it allowed the oil pressure to build up before giving any revs. 🤔 Yes it is, thats why peeps fit oil retention filters IE Mann with double anti-drain valves or an oil purge tank that pre-loads the oil system when stone cold and when you have electronic ignition and elec fuel pump that fires on the first crank.The first few secs of cranking from cold is refilling the oil filter and filling the galleries hence a bit of cranking is always good, unless your starter is knackered... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Hello Gaz, I think it is a bit overstated and I certainly do not worry about a quick starting engine as mine is. It's not as though the bearings are dry. I remember being astonished by a test conducted by a magazine, when Molyslip first came out. The idea was to take two identical cars, add Molyslip to one and run it for some miles to circulate the additive and let it do what it was advertised to do. Both cars then had their engine oil drained and they were run on a track to see which lasted the longest. The Molyslip car went further but what was interesting the other car went about thirty miles before it stopped. So a few seconds or so doesn't worry me.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 That's difficult to believe, piman!Loads of videos on t'Net of engines being run without oil, usuallyy having their nuts revved off as well.This one is from one of our own UK RedNecks, and he runs it at 2-3K, with no sump, so really no oil.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WLOccckJ5oHow long before it seizes? Seven minutes.Still a lot longer than the cold start delay, but you only seize the engine once.You accelerate wear every time you do a cold start.JOhn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Flexney Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Quoted from JohnD TYou accelerate wear every time you do a cold start. but leaving the engine running all winter is not really economical although the garage would stay warm.AndyF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Hello John, your choice, but I really was surprised how far they went with no oil. I would imagine that they had to be driven quite gently to go that far.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Thanks gents ... I guess I won't worry that mine has always taken a fair bit of cranking to start, but not be smug about it either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I always leave the choke in for a few secs cold cranking so it dosnt start to quickly when left for a length of time, anything to save the big end bearings, made the mistake once of starting the car after a 2 week idle, waited to prime the carbs with the elec pump, full choke and it fired first crank...knock-knock-knock-knock...brummmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Hello Gaz, it just shows how your own experience puts a slant on your thinking. Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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