mpbarrett Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 As part of my plans to cure the fuel vaporisation that we suffered from on the 10CR (*) I am going to put an electric pump at the rear of the car, under the car behind the rear out rigger. I am thinking of using a Facet 25 gallons per hour pump (6-7psi) with a pressure regulator in the engine compartment. I think Toby uses something similar in his GT6. I am also adding a traditional air filter box and feeding that from cold air from in front of the radiator. I am thinking of keeping the K&N filters but putting them inside the filter box not sure if that part will work yet.Lossing a bit of power is fine if it means we can use the car on a hot summers day without worrying about it cutting out....Any comments or suggestions welcome (Nick: yes injection would be nice but not this year :)) )Also any suggestions for suppliers welcome (by private message if you would prefer).cheersmike* during the 10CR we ended up fitting a "water cooling" system so that Libby could pump water over the fuel pump to keep it cool and stop the vapourisation... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyW Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Mike,Not sure if you've done this already but have you thought of wrapping the manifold in exhaust wrap. I believe that its quite cheap. Alternatively if you've lots of spare cash you can get the manifold ceramic coated. These would both help reduce temperature so reducing the possibility of fuel vapourisation. Other options would be to fit a heat shield (not sure if they are any good).cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Don't route the fuel pipe round the engine as on the standard set-up, which seems specially designed to heat the fuel, but pass it round the back, over the bulkhead, away from heat sources.Cool air to the carbs is good, you can probably get the K & N elements into the original airbox with a bit of tweaking? Heat shields on the carbs is also good.....Was reading something recently that suggests that although ethanol is less volatile than straight petrol on it's own, when combined in proportions of up to 10%, the mix becomes more volatile. I think this was proved empirically by several cars last September!CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Would be interested to see how you route the fuel pipe in the engine bay as I'm contemplating adding one on my 1500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Some pumps push and some pull , how do you tell . that is mount by engine or tank . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Thanks guysAlready have a single plate heat shield between the manifold and carbs, I am planning to add a second layer with an air gap to improve this.The pump is a 'push' pump so needs to be close to the tank. I have tried a 'sucking' pump (Huco) in the engine bay but this only lasted about a month before it stopped working.... I think it was faulty.Good point about the fuel pipe route, I plan to bring it into the engine bay on the normal route and then up and across the bulkhead into the regulator and then on to the carbs. Anyone know what the maxium inlet pressure an SU float valve will work with? Cheersmike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hello Mike, S.U.s don't want much above 2 p.s.i. , why not use an S.U. pump and that cuts out the complication of a fuel pressure regulator?Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Also Facet makes a cube pump at lower PSI that does not require a regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 mpbarrett wrote:Thanks guysAlready have a single plate heat shield between the manifold and carbs, I am planning to add a second layer with an air gap to improve this.The pump is a 'push' pump so needs to be close to the tank. I have tried a 'sucking' pump (Huco) in the engine bay but this only lasted about a month before it stopped working.... I think it was faulty.Good point about the fuel pipe route, I plan to bring it into the engine bay on the normal route and then up and across the bulkhead into the regulator and then on to the carbs. Anyone know what the maxium inlet pressure an SU float valve will work with? CheersmikeWhat type of feed pipe are you going to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 : the original metal pipe up to the engine comparment and then probably hose to the carbs inlet. I am hoping that the hose will insulate the petrol in the engine compartment.Have to have a look at the low pressure version, didnt realise they made one.Could use a SU pump but not sure what type I would need? Stag one? Where the best place to get them?cheersmike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Mike,I have probably mentioned before the 12V HUCO pump that I have on my GT6, its mounted in the engine bay on the engine valances and is a simple installation. No problem at all so far and as with the SU pumps, only pumps at low pressure therefore making the use of a regulator unecessary. Onl;y other item needed is a blanking plate for the camshaft drive hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Lots of SU pumps here: http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=2&pgCode=015&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Fuel+Pumps&agCode=0100&agName=SU+Fuel+Pumps&mode=car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 timbancroft61 wrote:Mike,I have probably mentioned before the 12V HUCO pump that I have on my GT6, its mounted in the engine bay on the engine valances and is a simple installation. No problem at all so far and as with the SU pumps, only pumps at low pressure therefore making the use of a regulator unecessary. Onl;y other item needed is a blanking plate for the camshaft drive hole.Tmthats what I fitted about month before the 10CR. lasted about 3 weeks and then started to fail (intermitten stopped pumping...) and now does not work at all. I guess I was probably unlucky... I am beginning to think that a low pressure pump is the way to go and do away with the regulator.cheersmike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Here's the selection of Facet cube pumps:http://www.facet-purolator.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=category§ionid=7&id=16&Itemid=31I have a sort of thing about SU fuel pumps, in that I pulled over on the interstate so many times behind so many stopped MGBs with the owners looking under the hood with a perplexed expression. About the third time, I just automatically got the big screwdriver out of the back of the GT6, and banged on the MGB's SU fuel pump with the screwdriver handle.To be fair, the SU on my XK140 never had a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Mike,I'd have returned that pump to the supplier, the one in my GT6 has been excellent!Timmpbarrett wrote:Tmthats what I fitted about month before the 10CR. lasted about 3 weeks and then started to fail (intermitten stopped pumping...) and now does not work at all. I guess I was probably unlucky... I am beginning to think that a low pressure pump is the way to go and do away with the regulator.cheersmike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarryH Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 SU pumps in MGBs had and have a history of failing (mine went in the offside of a six lane autobahn kreuz at Hochenheim, quite entertaining cruising to the hard shoulder) and if you are adventorous and look on MG web sites you will see that they now fit with electronic parts to elimanate the old mechanical points. Speak to someone like Brown and Gammons parts dept they will sort you out and tell you the history. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 What about this one?http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/facet-solid-state-fuel-pump-40171-ktm950-1046-p.asp2-3.5psi, and stops the fuel supply when off so fuel can't be siphoned by someone cutting your pipework. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Those facet pumps work fine, I have one in my Spit, but they are rather noisy. I'm thinking of going back to standard. (Why did I fit an electric pump again?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Hi i too have the Huco pump. Its been great, you can hear it prime when you turn the key and is a suck and push pump so i mounted mine in the engine bay. No problems in traffic or at high rpm for long time. If yours is not working then send it back as usually they are bomb proof. Id also check what power your alternator is giving out just incase.Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 I have a facet redline pump only gets noisey when the tank is running low.Superb and never had a problem with it, Never even run a filter before the pump, I run it after (for some strange reason) and never had a prolem. (new tank) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 timbancroft61 wrote:Mike,I'd have returned that pump to the supplier, the one in my GT6 has been excellent!TimTimyou are right I should return it to the supplier. If we dont complain about poor parts we will never get better stuff. Some times its such a pain, you pack the stuff up send it to the supplier, the supplier says there is nothing wrong with it and then grudgingly return the cost of purchase... This has happens so many times over the last couple of years with stuff from some of the big Triumph suppliers. I would love it if the suppliers were to say 'very sorry we will sort it out for you' instead of what you usaully get "no one else has any problem, never had any issues with that part etc...". If you buy something from some of the computer supplies (DABS, Ebuyer etc) anything wrong they arrange to pick it up, change it and then check that you are happy! Sorry this has turned into a bit of rant!Anyway thanks everyone for all the usefull suggestion, keep them coming!Cheersmike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Charlie & Rob, do either of you have photos of the boot fitment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Sorry about the quality: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Fantastic Charlie thanks! Thats clear enough. Looks like it might be a tight fit there with the rubber anti-vibration mounts if I still keep the board (the one with the boot light on) but definitely seems to fit tidily as you've done it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I think I replaced the anti-vibration mounts with rubber grommets, the board does just fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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