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Fuel tank leaking


gfiandy

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i think it's been repaired before .. but not really good  :-/ i used a de-ruster and a sealant .. hold on very when for now (did'nt fill up the tank to the top yet)

i've seen on whealer dealers (i know  :B)  last week that they welded or something with  tr6 tank that's had a small hole  :)

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If you can let the fuel out a bit, clean the tank area very very weel, then solder the offending hole up.
just by rubbing the solder iron about the hole.

most likely its coming frae ..inside.. the other repair,

for a better jobby, take off alltogether , clean, and re solder with a blow lamp.
as that will give you a bit more heat. { if ye aint got a wopping bigg solder iron }

just empty tank, leave cap off, let it dry for a while,  stuff a match or lighter owa filler hole,
it will go  whooof - bufff sound, and thats it, all fumes gone, so wont doo it agen.
then solder to hearts content.

im saying solder, as I fear that solder already on, and it will take some shifting to get a weld,or braze to stick
a good clean surface,and fluxed is whats needed, aint got it, it wont solder very weel.
M

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796 wrote:

just empty tank, leave cap off, let it dry for a while,  stuff a match or lighter owa filler hole,
it will go  whooof - bufff sound, and thats it, all fumes gone, so wont doo it agen.
then solder to hearts content.


Eeeek Marcus! By 'a while', I hope you mean a couple of weeks? Petrol takes a while to evaporate, and petrol vapour has a very large explosive range. The potential for this to, shall we say, blow up in your face, is huge. I'd recommend getting the tank professionally repaired, as the professionals will flush it with water or fill it with nitrogen before a flame goes near it. They can also test it to make sure it won't start leaking when it goes back in your car.

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No, just dry it out, or flush it out, and dry it.
done loads, always a bigg woooshhh, then its gone.
would no be saying it if I thought it dangerous. only saying from actually working on em.

cap off, vent  open, tank gauge out,if you want to be really soft. ;)
the more holes, the less the whoooosh

M

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The bulge isn't a previous repair it a paint blister caused by the leak.

Thanks for the tip on Anglian Radiators they have done great work for me in the past repairing an oil radiator and recording a radiator. I didn't know they could do a petrol tank so I may try them.

I have a very powerful Gas soldering iron but have to admit I am a bit worried about naked flames near petrol tanks. Even though the iron has a cat heat converter it still a naked flame.

Either way I will have to drain it first which I am not looking forward to as it is full to the brim. I am thinking of draining it into a plastic petrol can a bit at a time and transfer it to the modern Toyota. I guess it should probably go through a paper filter to ensure I don't dump rust into the Toyota.

Thanks for the ideas.

Regards,
Andrew

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my mate that drove my car home two years ago had a brilliant idea to fill the feul tank to max  :-/  and i was already  aware of that the fuel tank must come out ..

so after a few weeks we got it all out with a plastic hand pump, at least 30liters of petrol :-/

it's still in my garage now , the plan is to fill up my tank 3/4 or so and put some of the old fuel to fill it up  ;)
but i first filter it with 3 coffie filters because of the rust parts in it  :P

when i cleaned the tank out with a heavy duty degreaser , filled it up with water and .. it was leaking badly where the tank was spotwelded  :-/  then put a epoxyresin in it and all fine for the last 3 months  :P

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If there ever was a car part that is 'mission critical' it is the fuel tank.
And if it has a pinhole in one place, think how much internal corrosion must have thinned the metal elsewhere.
This is a replacement indicator, not one for messing about with risky repairs.

John

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Hi, well I have inspected the tank from the outside and even though it has fresh paint on it, it is clear that it has been rusty in the past. It has several areas with obvious thinning of the metal.  I know it was previously blasted as some of the media was found in the fuel filters.

Since a new tank is not impossibly expensive at £210 from Moss, the only company that actually appears to have one. So I think I will replace it rather than braze or seal it. I need to check the version I need so will order on the phone.

Many thanks for all the options.

Regards,
Andrew

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Forgot to mention, if work is justified on a tank, then high pressure steam cleaning will get rid of fuel residues and make it safe for welding.  Anywhere that runs lorries may have a suitable steam cleaner.

I've had my tank modified by brazing, and the brazer did fill the tank with water to make it safe.

John

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I have recently used a tank sealer from ebay, not cheap but the dogs doodars!

about 35 quid inc postage and seals 2 x tanks, did the job in one go, I drained the tank left it open for a week prior to adding the fluid and swishing it around, it not only seals but sticks all the bits of rust together and stops further rusting!!

Rob

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bobyspit wrote:
I have recently used a tank sealer from ebay, not cheap but the dogs doodars!

about 35 quid inc postage and seals 2 x tanks, did the job in one go, I drained the tank left it open for a week prior to adding the fluid and swishing it around, it not only seals but sticks all the bits of rust together and stops further rusting!!

Rob


that's what i did also  ;)

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