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Easy way to add headlight relays


Andy Borris

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There is little point in the extra harness no matter how cheap it is.

The whole point of using relays is to take the switch out of the power line -  which it does but it  adds even more cable in the power line so there could easily be added volts  drop.

Usually adding a relay is to remove the standard power cable and get some better in to give the lights as best chance as possible.  Or have I missed something.

It is easy enough to break into the normal loom and use the blue/white, blue/red cables to power the relay and a more substantial cable coming from the battery/s/Solenoid etc direct to the lights via the relay contacts.

Roger

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Hi Roger,

I think that is exactly what this harness does.
It does not split into the wires from the light switch to the headlights, but uses one of the headlight connectors to switch the relays.
One of my concerns would be the lenght of the harness with only 1,5m

Harry

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Lots of people have little understanding of car wiring and although they know that adding relays is a "good thing", they have no idea how to do it.

Here is an answer, at a reasonable price, it's plug and play and plus because it's non-invasive, it's easy to reset the car to original specification.

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Bought one,(not sure what I'll do with it), couldn't resist it at the price. NZ $11.50 and free postage.   Years ago I fitted something similar to a Toyota but it cost a lot more than that.
As has been said couldn't buy one relay for that price. Will report back.
Tony.

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I've just spent a good 10 minutes looking at that to see if it actually did ANYTHING at all...

I can confirm after studying the pictures lower down the listing that YES it DOES do what you need to add an extra power feed 🙂

The top listing picture doesn't show it (due to camera angle) but in one of the lower pictures you can see a pair of red cable coming from the fuses to a ring connector. That is to connect direct to battery (or wherever) so the dash switch is only supplying power to the relay contacts (exactly as 'modern' cars do).
Why on earth they have terminated the quite short feed cables in a ring connector is a mystery, black ground wires yes, but power where you will have to extend them?!!

Pity the main listing picture isn't great.... 😉

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I suspect the ring terminals are there as many cars have a suitable bolt connection on the starter or even alternator (as pointed out earlier)
Not a biggy to extend the wires, or even place all the loom in the bonnet and just add a nice chunky feed to the bonnet. Which is what I have done on my spitfire with a fair bit of faffing.

I have ordered 2 sets, one for the Toledo, one for the Mini. Worth buying IMO having done it the manual way....

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mine have just turned up.
Relays look typical, with plain black case rather than see-through as per listing. Standard, so easy to swap if needed. Cables feel fine.
There is only one "trigger" connector, which is obvious now I have though about it. Good length between the H4 plugs, approx 1500mm (that is 5ft to the dinosaurs!) Downside, as noted earlier the paower supply cable is short, alll in only 600mm to the relays, so will probably need extending for many of our cars (dolly/saloons may be ok though)and teh H4  plugs need individual earths, they are on a ring terminal on a 400mm lead (16") I guess they could be connected to teh original earth though.

Wire colours are wrong too, earth is blue! But the cables seem well terminated, and the cables to/from headlamps are in black protective flexi tubing.

Pleased 🙂

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I'm with VR, it's too cheap, £5.66 from China, free postage? Don't get me wrong, I've bought stuff from China and I've got a reasonable price but they can't get around the postage. This £5.66 includes postage. I don't like the look of the connectors, is the wiring crimped or soldered? How old were the people that put this together?

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I purchased a couple as well. Yes, £5.66 is very cheap.

They turned up in about 5 days, having been shipped AirMail. I will see if I can find someone who can read Chinese to tell me how much it actually cost to ship. I suspect not much. Other items I have bought (from Hong Kong) have cost less than a first class stamp in teh UK to ship over. We do pay a lot (comparatively) for our postage.

The connections all seem well crimped, and have been heat-shrink where needed.

The metal of the connectors seems a little "tinny" and I would replace the ring terminals intended for supply and earth.

The wire seems good quality. The plastic trunking is very "plasticky" and light, not like the stuff in my modern car that has a more "quality" feel.

The Spitfire will get an upgrade first I think.

Cheers

Colin

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The connector that is used as the trigger feels a bit thin, but then I looked against normal male spades and it is pretty much the same.
Remember all connectors on the Triumph looms are crimped, not soldered. So these should be fine. Will be fitting to teh Mini tomorrow. Unless I have paid employment....

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Quoted from DougBGT6
How old were the people that put this together?


Probably best you don't ask that sort of question about almost anything you buy. Even the food you eat, even if things are made in the UK, chances are materials/components have been sourced from places that we would rather not know about.  At least this stuff is honest enough, unlike Apple et al who try to disguise where/how stuff is made.

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  • 2 months later...

I know this thread's a few months old, but has anybody fitted one of these to a Herald yet?  Does it need much modification (power cable lengthening etc.) and where's the best place to fit the relays and fuseholders - does it come with mounting brackets for them?  Any other gotchas before I place an order?

Thanks,
Dave

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I relay for dipped, one for main. But assuming both pairs are main, and only one pair have dipped, then using a pair or relays for main would be better.

I guess ultimately you could run a total of 1 relay per main or dipped!

On my spit (before these looms were mentioned) I put the relays all behind the ns headlight, ran a beefy power cable via a 25A fuse to them, and then picked up all the connections of the bullet connectors in the middle of the bonnet. That seems to have worked well.

I also have spotlamps that were run on a separate circuit, again via dedicated fuse and relay.

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