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Uprated Front ARB


Matt George

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Hello all,

I'm considering fitting a stiffer front ARB to my 2000, however I don't fancy paying £250 for a new 1in version from Monarch.

So my questions are two-fold…

A – Has anybody got a seconfdhand item they'd be prepared to sell?
B – Has anyone out there fitted an uprated bar from a different source/come up with something of their own design?

Cheers in anticipation,
Matt

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Out of curiosity, I take it that the one Monarch sells is originally intended for Stags?
And, what have you got fitted at the moment?

I ask as one day, hopefully, I shall get myself another Saloon and would very much like to fit an ARB but would like to know what is ideal for general road use.

Julian

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Quoted from StagNL
Out of curiosity, I take it that the one Monarch sells is originally intended for Stags?
And, what have you got fitted at the moment?

I ask as one day, hopefully, I shall get myself another Saloon and would very much like to fit an ARB but would like to know what is ideal for general road use.

Julian


Hi Julian,

I've currently got a standard Stag/2500 bar fitted at the moment. I believe they're both the same rating and definitely fit the same crossmember. Mine being a 2000 it didn't have a bar originally, so I swapped the crossmember and TCAs accordingly.

With uprated dampers and springs all round the car corners nicely and certainly digs in/holds the road well. i'd just like to try and flatten it out further,a thought that occurred to me while attacking the mountain passes on the 10CR, hence why I'm considering a stronger ARB. Yes, all the Monarch stuff is technically intended for a Stag, but will also fit a saloon. So I've also got the uprated GKN driveshafts for example.

Cheers,
Matt

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Ive got the 1 inch lowering coils from Chris Witor, Koni shocks all round and my lovely new contis. At no point on the 10CR could i get it to understeer or oversteer, even when being downright silly.

Bear in mind that if you have too much bar, it may well corner flat but you might get more understeer if you cant load the front tyre enough. And you will also reduce compliance on poor roads.

I was very pleased with the simple mods on my stag, and, after the 10CR, cant see any reason to change it. And thats from a born tinkerer! Dont under estimate how much of a difference a decent set of shocks can make. The Konis ARE expensive, but they are good.

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Mine has the std arb from an S, & superflex bushes, these c/w progressive fronts 205/400 lb and 475 lb rears means the car handles very well. Turns in very well and does'nt suffer from excessive roll.

About to fit the Konis I bought from James S at the start of the 10CR and will be changing the front strut shockers as I think the KYB units up front have had their day.

One of the great things about big saloons is that stiff shell (well, for the 60s & 70s) enables the suspension to be relatively compliant to aid traction.

Clive's Spitfire is a bloody fast, yet the three of use following him (Leighton Ball's 2.5Pi mk2, Roger Key's Stag and my mk1 2.5SU) were able to keep up as they handle and ride so well.

I'd look at reducing the ride height a little and take some weight out of the car. A bigger dia front bar will result in more understeer.

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Quoted from thescrapman
I'll throw the cat amongst the pigeons..

Are you sure you actually need an ARB???


I was expecting that....
On my bog standard 2000 the road holding was relatively good but then I never really pushed it that far.   At least nowhere near the way I push my Stag - which has Monarch 1" lower uprated springs, Spax shocks and poly bushes but otherwise standard.  There are some with stiffer 1" ARBs on Stag but I reckon that is going too far as right now there is neutral handling on mine.  A Saloon would handle similarly I would think.  I'd want mine to feel similar anyway....

Julian

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Matt I have the standard ARB on the estate along with standard fr springs and CW uprated 520s on the back, the Pi has no ARB on the front and 205/400 fr springs and 575 rears. The PI (imho) not only rolls less than the estate but also rides better, as the front wheels are still fully independent  of each other, something that an ARB removes!. So my question (along with Colin Wake it would seem) is, do you need an ARB?
perhaps it's a Colin thing?

Colin

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Quoted from timbancroft61
A bigger dia front bar will result in more understeer.


for the car to under steer surely it means that the tyre is loosing grip or running at its limits,uprating one component only will transfer the load to the next component in the chain that being the tyre.

the car will roll a lot more when cornering without an arb fitted and it may 'feel' to be cornering better but with a standard profile tyre energy is lost in tyre deflection and slip angle.

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My personal experience is that the standard ARB does improve things in competition with nice flat neutral handling. What also helps (and I don't know why) is 1 inch lower uprated on the rear but standard uprated on the front. Also after trying all types of shocks KYB are brilliant. The worst of the bunch is Spax, complete and utter crap, both fronts failed within 9 months went back to standard KYB.

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All,

Thanks for the replies, certainly some food for thought here. I have CW 205/400 springs on the front and 575s on the back, Konis all round. As hinted at originally, the car does handle very well and surprised on the 10CR in terms of how far we could push it. Certainly didn't experience any understeer or oversteer.

Perhaps I am actually trying to address the wrong issue/an issue that isn't actually there… Taking some weight out of the car is definitely on my list of things to do, but might be worth running the car without the ARB to see what difference that makes.

Thanks again,
Matt

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