Matt306 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Has anyone dabbled in the dark art of D Type OD rebuilds.I am stuggling to find etched lines on the planet gears.My annulus seems to have a bush as opposed to a needle roller, one less thing to disintegrate I suppose. Does this indicate early/late OD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 I rebuilt a couple many years back but I don't remember too clearly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicmk1est Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 this post might be better in technical section,more responce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Quoted from nicmk1est this post might be better in technical section,more responce I thought that after... perhaps a nice kind admin will move it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicmk1est Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 give these lot a ring,they are very helpful when i had my od problems http://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 The marks are not very clear, a short etched line on the carrier and a etched or a small dot on the end of the tooth, a good dry clean and mag glass may helpif the planet assy has been replaced then I dont know if spare parts are marked for best running there marks are there to make each pinion take the same load or one can seemingly do all the work and the other 2 take a bit of a rest.pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 you are sure its a D type solenoid O/s not J type solenoid N/s as J types planet gears are not marked justa thought Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Deffo D type... just trying to remove the pump. Manual says Churchill tool one assumes someone has managed it by other means. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 I've definitely done that - the one I rebuilt from Toby's original box (to go on my brother's Mk2) had a broken pump, which I successfully replaced. I don't recall what (if any) complex tool or method I needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Theres a screw from the front face? That locks it in place, need to make up a threaded drag to pull the assy outyou can fit a higher capacity pump done thatpete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 I am trying to remove item 24 here http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiii-d-type-overdrive-internals as it appears that needs to come off then i can screw in a bolt and use a nut to pull it out.However the bit i am trying to get out requires a churchill tool. Manual says;Unscrew the non return valve body using tool L.213.... Then it goes on to explain screwing in the thread to remove the pump body. The non return valve body looks like it is a circle with flatted off sides. Only snag is I cant find anything to fit over this and get the torque on to it to remove it.Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Don't remember how i took that part out, think i may have left it in actually. I did have to change the plunger as that was square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 After much trying to fabricate a tool i gave up. AS the whole unit is a press in fit I did this... Undid screw on front face... bashed plunger down, eventually the 40/50 year old stickyness gave up and it slid down and out. The plunger was broken anyway so not worries at all it needs to be replaced.Next is trying to remove the speedo drive from the rear, thats stuck to Think this is the joy of disassembling a 40/50 year old overdrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Quoted from RedRooster Don't remember how i took that part out, think i may have left it in actually. I did have to change the plunger as that was square. Square? Pah! The one I took out had broken in half. 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Remember making a steel spacer tube , which flattened to make a crude removal socket,the speedo should pull out when the locating spigot screw is removed ifs anot a press fit but does have a o ring which may stickpete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 Quoted from Pete Lewis Remember making a steel spacer tube , which flattened to make a crude removal socket,the speedo should pull out when the locating spigot screw is removed ifs anot a press fit but does have a o ring which may stickpete Think that rubber may have got hard and stuck to the housing. I have had flats on the speedo drive and not movement, being brass cant put that much on to it until it rounds off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 You have taken the locating bolt out ?? of the casing pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Yes that's out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 this reluctance to exit has happened before but cant remember which forum Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Cured with heat, pedal spanner on the flats to get it moving, then cloth around the thread into vice and worked the casing up and off. Think the rubber had got solid and stuck to the side, only thing i can think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 may have been sealed with a loctite type product by a previous repair i like the stuff but it can be a sod if it glues removable parts into a leak free permanent fixingglad its out Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Could be who knows. I have the annulus out easy enough to clean all the bits out. Took the bearings to Wych Bearings in Bromsgrove and they advise they are perfectly serviceable so back in they go. Trust these guys as they could have had a sale, I did buy an oil seal from them as i felt i should. Bearings are so much cheaper at bearing factors I saved £10 on the price from a Triumph web site. As long as its a standard imperial bearing they usually have them, the snap rings on the main shaft of the gear box they dont do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 I have a member in SKF just at the bottom of my road, They dont like to the outer with snap rings these days Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Just a thought perhaps to save some money we could start a thread for bearing sizes. I have no trouble buying stuff from Triumph Specialists but bearings can be a lot cheaper from the bearing factor shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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