marshman777 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 I am starting to piece together a list for a full restoration on my 13/60 convertable, its a 1970 with a spitfire 1500 engine and gearbox.Has anyone doen a check list for things to check as i start to strip the car. I know all projects are unique, but if anyone can give me a helping hand with a list/spread sheet of things to check or a to do list to help me start the project it would be welcome.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimp my vit Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 If it takes as long as my resto, then take digital photo's of every component and label every single part, you will be amazed how many bits you can't remember which way up they go or the exact location.Good Luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Any parts you remove, keep the nuts / screws / bolts with them. You’ll save a lot of time trying to remember how parts were attached, and with what length or size of screw or bolt. I’ve just spent ages trying to locate the screws for the door striker plate and when I finally identified one I realised I had quite a few, but just didn’t recognise them in my assortments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman777 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Will try and post pics of the current state for you all to see, no time scale so wont be a quick restoration. I have no garge so weather plays a part as well as time and money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 As already mentioned take lots of pictures when dismantling the car.Make sure you have enough (labelled) boxes etc. to store all parts ...Also find a parts manual and make a few (paper) copies.Very handy for making notes while you progress and a good reference.Ooohh ... and good luck with the project ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Don't leave the battery sitting there with no trickle charger for too long. Batteries don't last long sitting around in a discharged state. :'(Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 .. but at least it’s off the cold concrete floor which will kill a battery very quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 My advice would be to get the restoration done as quickly as possible, for two reasons.The longer it goes on the more likely you will be to misplace partsThe longer it goes on the more likely you are to lose heart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman777 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 I have had the car since i was 17 (first car) and i am now 43, it has had a basic respray and new roof 20 years ago and has been rearly used since. It was garaged for 12 years and stood the test of time well. i recomisioned it 5 years ago but didnt need any bodywork and it has been outside for the last 3 years under a cover. My biggest worry is the chassis and is the first thing i need to check. I would love not to have to take the body off but until i look at the frame i wont know. I have some ramps due in the next few weeks so that i can lift the car up and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Oh dear - this is becoming a competition. Got my Vitesse in 1981 aged 15. I'm now 48 and I've never had it on the road. Closer now than I have ever been though. Still a year off though I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 2370 wrote:I have had the car since i was 17 (first car) and i am now 43, it has had a basic respray and new roof 20 years ago and has been rearly used since. It was garaged for 12 years and stood the test of time well. i recomisioned it 5 years ago but didnt need any bodywork and it has been outside for the last 3 years under a cover. My biggest worry is the chassis and is the first thing i need to check. I would love not to have to take the body off but until i look at the frame i wont know. I have some ramps due in the next few weeks so that i can lift the car up and see.Even if you can't see it, there will be rot there ready to show itself at the most inconvenient of times. But, if you take the body off to do a "proper job" it'll take six times longer than you expect. If it all goes smoothly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyf Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 To do a proper job and make sure everything is sound (Body mounts, hidden Chassis area's, etc) you really need the body tubs off the Chassis?Trouble is, as stated it will end up taking far longer and costing loads more than you think! (Tell me how I know :B)However you will end up knowing there are no hidden area's of rot and have a better Car, that if repaired and painted/Rust proofed properly will last :) (PS It looks like Beans and his family like Icecream for pudding!! ;D ;D) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougBGT6 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 A deadline is a great way to get things done. Mine's a similar story, a re-spray and then garaged for 20 years until, my daughter wanted it for her wedding. ??) Took me 7 months solid but I made it with a month to spare and, as a bonus, it got me out of the wedding planning. Oh, and I bought my car in 1978. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman777 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 Well I started last night, i thought i would start at the rear and empty the boot and see whats there. Amazing how much crap you throw in the boot over the years.Anyway striped all carpets out and took fuel tank out and generally all looked well until.... i spoted a small patch of rust at the rear of the boot just as the curved ribbed section starts. Needless to say this hole is now around 4" x 6" on either side of the wheel well. All other areas are good and seem to be very solid? Looks like a body off is the only way. I will post pictures after the weekend for advise on repair.Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Are you in Burtonwood? The Burtonwood between St Helens and Warrington? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elma fud Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 don't move house!! misplaced numerous bits somehow :-/Make a list, it'll give you a good to do and a mojo boost as you tick things off, also don't get hung up on doing one area, a change is a good as a rest and have a plan for winter for stuff you can do indoors because going out to a sub zero garage will not be nice, when you have cleaned and painted something wrap it up and store it somewhere else like the loft so they don't get dirty in the garage.But my bigest advise it don't get disheartened with the pace of the restoration, it could take years, and even if you only get an hour to work on it it's still an hour off the build.Good luck ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman777 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 Well no i am in Old Hall, warrington, i coach junior rugby at Burtonwood, are you local? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I am in Birchwood!! About 5 miles away, though my Vitesse is in Prescot but about to be moved to Birchwood. I'll send a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmosborneuk Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I'm watching this thread with interest as I'm about to undertake a full restoration of my 1969 13/60 convertible too :)I would also consider security while it's in bits, some unscrupulous scrap metal people won't consider that you might actually want the parts despite a little surface rust :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman777 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 I wish it was surface rust !!!. All removed panels will be going into secure storage elsewhere so hopefully wont be a problem.I have worried a few times when the eastern european scrap men have been seen looking around Ok Dave look forward to getting touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman777 Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 A good day on the strip down on Sunday, all interior trim and carpets removed as well as all seatbelt fittings and the like. Nothing bad found, a couple of pin holes that need work in the foot wells and one of the bolts that hold the seat frame to the floor has become un attached under the floor pan.So all in all quite happy with what i found. Checked a bit more of the chassis and found it to be solid again. Obviously i will not see the full extent until the body is off. I will try and upload some pictures when i figure out how to do it.Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman777 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Hope this works, some photo's of the strip downhttp://s1374.photobucket.com/user/marshman77/slideshow/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman777 Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 I have made a schoolboy error while stripping the car. i have removed the handbrake and left the brake on. Is this possible or are me brakes seized, If it is possible how d i remove the handbrake without the handle?Help needed, Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallyspit Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 You can't leave the handbrake on once you've removed the handbrake lever. It's only the ratchet that holds it on and that's part of the lever. Check that the handbrake cable between both brakedrums is slack and try moving the levers at the end of the handbrake cable on the back of the brake drum towards the drum as they could be seized. If this doesn't free it, adjust the square nut on the back of the drum to slacken the brake shoes as much as possible and give the brake drum a good clout. The brake shoes/linings could be stuck to the inside of the drum. If that doesn't free the brakes, you'll have to strip down the rear brakes, an easy job once you've managed to get the brake drum off! Copper grease is your friend when re-assembling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toledo Man Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Here are the photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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