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marshman777

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I am starting to piece together a list for a full restoration on my 13/60 convertable, its a 1970 with a spitfire 1500 engine and gearbox.
Has anyone doen a check list for things to check as i start to strip the car. I know all projects are unique, but if anyone can give me a helping hand with a list/spread sheet of things to check or a to do list to help me start the project it would be welcome.

Thanks

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Any parts you remove, keep the nuts / screws / bolts with them. You’ll save a lot of time trying to remember how parts were attached, and with what length or size of screw or bolt. I’ve just spent ages trying to locate the screws for the door striker plate and when I finally identified one I realised I had quite a few, but just didn’t recognise them in my assortments.

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As already mentioned take lots of pictures when dismantling the car.
Make sure you have enough (labelled) boxes etc. to store all parts ...





Also find a parts manual and make a few (paper) copies.
Very handy for making notes while you progress and a good reference.

Ooohh ... and good luck with the project  ;)

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I have had the car since i was 17 (first car) and i am now 43, it has had a basic respray and new roof 20 years ago and has been rearly used since. It was garaged for 12 years and stood the test of time well. i recomisioned it 5 years ago but didnt need any bodywork and it has been outside for the last 3 years under a cover. My biggest worry is the chassis and is the first thing i need to check. I would love not to have to take the body off but until i look at the frame i wont know. I have some ramps due in the next few weeks so that i can lift the car up and see.

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2370 wrote:
I have had the car since i was 17 (first car) and i am now 43, it has had a basic respray and new roof 20 years ago and has been rearly used since. It was garaged for 12 years and stood the test of time well. i recomisioned it 5 years ago but didnt need any bodywork and it has been outside for the last 3 years under a cover. My biggest worry is the chassis and is the first thing i need to check. I would love not to have to take the body off but until i look at the frame i wont know. I have some ramps due in the next few weeks so that i can lift the car up and see.


Even if you can't see it, there will be rot there ready to show itself at the most inconvenient of times. But, if you take the body off to do a "proper job" it'll take six times longer than you expect. If it all goes smoothly.

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To do a proper job and make sure everything is sound (Body mounts, hidden Chassis area's, etc) you really need the body tubs off the Chassis?

Trouble is, as stated it will end up taking far longer and costing loads more than you think! (Tell me how I know :B)

However you will end up knowing there are no hidden area's of rot and have a better Car, that if repaired and painted/Rust proofed properly will last :)

(PS It looks like Beans and his family like Icecream for pudding!! ;D ;D)

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A deadline is a great way to get things done. Mine's a similar story, a re-spray and then garaged for 20 years until, my daughter wanted it for her wedding.  ??) Took me 7 months solid but I made it with a month to spare and, as a bonus, it got me out of the wedding planning.

Oh, and I bought my car in 1978.  8)

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Well I started last night, i thought i would start at the rear and empty the boot and see whats there. Amazing how much crap you throw in the boot over the years.
Anyway striped all carpets out and took fuel tank out and generally all looked well until.... i spoted a small patch of rust at the rear of the boot just as the curved ribbed section starts. Needless to say this hole is now around 4" x 6" on either side of the wheel well. All other areas are good and seem to be very solid? Looks like a body off is the only way. I will post pictures after the weekend for advise on repair.

Andy

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don't move house!! misplaced numerous bits somehow  :-/

Make a list, it'll give you a good to do and a mojo boost as you tick things off, also don't get hung up on doing one area, a change is a good as a rest and have a plan for winter for stuff you can do indoors because going out to a sub zero garage will not be nice, when you have cleaned and painted something wrap it up and store it somewhere else like the loft so they don't get dirty in the garage.
But my bigest advise it don't get disheartened with the pace of the restoration, it could take years, and even if you only get an hour to work on it it's still an hour off the build.

Good luck ;)

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A good day on the strip down on Sunday, all interior trim and carpets removed as well as all seatbelt fittings and the like.
Nothing bad found, a couple of pin holes that need work in the foot wells and one of the bolts that hold the seat frame to the floor has become un attached under the floor pan.
So all in all quite happy with what i found. Checked a bit more of the chassis and found it to be solid again. Obviously i will not see the full extent until the body is off. I will try and upload some pictures when i figure out how to do it.
Andy

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You can't leave the handbrake on once you've removed the handbrake lever. It's only the ratchet that holds it on and that's part of the lever.

Check that the handbrake cable between both brakedrums is slack and try moving the levers at the end of the handbrake cable on the back of the brake drum towards the drum as they could be seized. If this doesn't free it, adjust the square nut on the back of the drum to slacken the brake shoes as much as possible and give the brake drum a good clout. The brake shoes/linings could be stuck to the inside of the drum. If that doesn't free the brakes, you'll have to strip down the rear brakes, an easy job once you've managed to get the brake drum off! Copper grease is your friend when re-assembling.

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