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Posted

Made the switch to Penrite 20w/60 before the 10CR.

Even after the 36 hour stint through France in the heat it was still holding over 20 psi at tickover and 60psi at 2500 rpm
and the same readings are still being seen on the gauge after the return home.

So far it has done about 3000 miles and holding up well. though I will change it soon, in my little world oil is cheaper and easier to change than engines
(or diffs & gearboxes) no point in penny pinching.

Posted

Valvoline VR1 seems pretty good in the PI.  Comma 20/50 seems ok too though I usually fortify that with a can of Wynns to stop the Vitesse turning it all to smoke in a couple of thousand miles!

Nick

Posted

I have only ever used Halfords classic 20/50 or Comma 20/50 in all my Triumphs and it is also what I put into the Austin's I have been restoring.

Another very important thing is to us a decent oil filter with a non return valve.





Posted

Halford classic AKA re-packaged Castrol GTX and Comma sonic (both well tried and tested) they both die after a good thrashing IE loose viscosity/pressure very quickly after getting hot and bothered, cheap but not that good.

Valvoline VR1 20/50 mineral now in mine for a few oil changes and will stay, stands getting hot and keeps its pressure, easy to get at about £25 for 5lts from local Euro Car Parts.

I concur with Tiggr, the Penrite 20/60 is also superb and both the Penrite and Valvoline VR1 have 'correct' & optimum amount of Zinc or ZDDP in it to keep the cam/followers protected. (ZDDP... kills the catalytic converters in moderns so that's why not used in non classic engine oils)

The Penrite 20/60 oil is well priced for 5lts at £25 and the 20/50 is £22 ...that's delivered to your door too..! (just untick express delivery for free delivery..:) ) from James Paddocks:
http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?searchtext=engine%20oil

Mineral oil is fine for normal/spirited use, oil/filter change every 6 months IE summer and winter, more expensive synthetic oil is long life oil so filter change at 6 month, oil/filter change at 12month.

Difference in mineral oil is the filter picks up all the deposits, synthetic oil holds and breaks down the deposits with less filtration needed.

Semi synthetic oil is neutral and the best of both worlds, you can mix mineral oil if needed and is probably the best oil you could add but there dosnt seem to be an afordable product around that suits our engines.
This is Millers classic semi oil and very expensive: http://www.minisport.com/mil2050c-millers-classic-mini-semi-synthetic-sport-engine-oil-20w-50-5-litres.html

Problem with expensive classic synthetic oil on old engines is leaks, you need to keep topping up, that get expensive as you can't mix mineral and synthetic oil, so that's why the cheaper mineral oil is a better choice for most Triumph owners. ;)

Posted

Addition to my info if fully synthetic engine oil is your choice its available as Mobil 1:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOBIL-1-RACING-4T-15W-50-Motorcycle-oil-/271269779210?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f28f0570a

I belive a 20/50 flavour is available but cant find it...

but suggested Zinc additive is recommended for adding to modern oils, interesting vid from Moss:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ciOBt9sALQI#t=70

Posted


Thanks all for your varying observations    ;)

I'm giving Valvoline VR1 a go and have also fitted a spin-on adapter today  :)  Got to look after that bottom end   ;D



Posted

As you are doing Jim, its VR1 and a decent filter.

The engine in my saloon has done some serious mileage now and still holds good pressure after a good caning. £25ish ain't a bad price for such an important part of an engine.

Posted

Up until about 5 years ago I used Duckhams 20-50 on the GT6 but it's now no longer available. Nowadays I tend to use Halfords Classic 20-50, for the last oil change though I used Morris Golden Film classic 20-50 which seemed pretty good. I change my oil in the GT6 annually though with an additional change if I'm doing the RBRR which means there's only about 2,000 to 3,000 miles between oil changes. I always change the filter at the same time as well and use a quality filter with a non return valve as I have a spin on adaptor. I managed to get a job lot of Unipart filters a couple of years ago from ebay which was helpful but I think I'm down to my last one now...

Posted

cook1e wrote:
UI managed to get a job lot of Unipart filters a couple of years ago from ebay which was helpful but I think I'm down to my last one now...




Use WIX. Big following in the street racer scene. Class leading filtration and flow.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just filled the Toledo with millers css20 60
Oil pressure is similar to vr1 s far, but not been driven hard yet. Roll on the autosooo and trackday :)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just found some Valvoline VR1 on ebay buy it now for £24.55 with free delivery from a BMW place in Swindon., ebay user bmwmotormec.  Just ordered some for a service I'm doing on the Dolomite, the listing says "More than 10" available so worth placing an order if you want some.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271249905266?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3322wt_1399

Posted

892 wrote:
Also the filters are mounted vertical- I think I need to put a check valve into the hose that connects to the oil pump so I will have zero drain after extended stoppage.

Cheers,
Iain.


Just a quick detour from the original thread, but have you seen this thread Iain? uksnatcher came across this, and did a wee bit of research into filters which you may be interested in:

http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1373532310/s-0/

Cheers,

Phil

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