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There's always a balance to be struck here, weight of spares versus likelihood of failure taking into account the consequences of the failure all tempered by the crews ability to fix it!

I've often thought that lugging around weighty spares actually increased the stress on car - I've packed a car, fuelled it up, sat in it and thought, this won't do, it's dragging it's arse now! Then, I've stripped it out to get to the 'real' and viable spares and cracked on.

There's the question of tools, if you're taking the spare part, do you have the tools to fit it? Little point in taking half a job.

At the end of the day, take the best car you can - with the dodgy alternator replaced and the intermittent faults fixed rather than a ropey motor with a boot full of spares 🙂

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1 hour ago, mole42 said:

Nuala's and my DNF in 2021 was due to a failed rear wheel bearing in a new hub on the Stag. Even if we'd carried a spare rear hub, I don't think I'd have wished to change it at midnight at Gledrid. There are limits!

You just carry a complete shaft with a saloon or stag. Not handed so simple, not so easy on a small chassis. 

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17 hours ago, PeteStupps said:

Pedantic Pete here: you would of course have to put your meter in series with the fuse, rather than across it, to measure the current 🙃

Come on John, it's a 48hr endurance event! And an alternator takes up less space than a spare windscreen, as mentioned elsewhere... 

This year's run was the first of my 3 attempts which didn't result in a dead dynamo. I've always carried a spare in the boot since it failed on a holiday in Wales in 2017. I'm still not going to convert to an alternator though - too stubborn and have built up a collection of dynamos now. 

Thank you, Pete!   Electrical numpty, me!

But it's not just the alternator alone that concerns me.   Some have posted prideful pics of their "comprehensive kit of spares", filling the boot and back seat!   Even those can't deal with every possible failure, as Mole's post shows.     

John

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On 12/10/2023 at 12:14, Shynsy said:

Ours was very minor.  Near the end of the run our stag seemed sluggish to start. In fact it would not start at all when we ran the starter but would instead start when the key was moved back to the ignition position and the inertia of the engine rotating allowed the car to start.  After a bit if head scratching we diagnosed a failing battery which meant the volts dropped to low when the starter was running for the electronic ignition to fire. Once the starter was de-energised the volts popped back up and the ignition fired and the car started..

We also noticed this was a lot worse with lights, wipers etc on. Stressing the battery further. So from bude starting was like that scene from apollo 13. Everything drawing current was turned off, even phone chargers and then wang the starter and hope. 
 

annoyingly i had a new battery ready to fit back in the garage

on a previous run we were saved from a broken throttle cable 20 miles from home by a modified bike brake cable  i always carry one..

 

tim

I had a similar issue years ago and after changing the battery and still having the problem. I eventually found I had a bad earth. In this particular case it was the negative cable to battery terminal connector. Changed that and everything was fine with both old and new batteries.

After all that rain and the position of the Stag battery it could be that you have corrosion on one or both of the terminals.

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5 hours ago, Alex said:

You just carry a complete shaft with a saloon or stag. Not handed so simple, not so easy on a small chassis. 

Having changed dozens of rear drive shafts on saloons and Stags I know that, on the lift in my garage, it's a simple operation. But at midnight, in the dark, in a fuel station forecourt, tired and cold - and angry because it was a new, reconditioned shaft that failed - it's not so simple.

bearing remains.jpg

Edited by mole42
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2 hours ago, mole42 said:

Having changed dozens of rear drive shafts on saloons and Stags I know that, on the lift in my garage, it's a simple operation. But at midnight, in the dark, in a fuel station forecourt, tired and cold - and angry because it was a new, reconditioned shaft that failed - it's not so simple.

bearing remains.jpg

We did 2 this year …. Long story and I say we loosely 🤣

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In 2021 we heard the ominous sound of failing UJ in a 2000 driveshaft.

we voted to ignore it until it got worse, it didn’t. uJ was utterly mullered when I investigated post event. 

Same co-driver and I changed a drive shaft on his TR6 on an10CR in high 30’s heat. 

Recon hub and the wheel started to come off, tightened and it came loose again.

I always carry a drive shaft, have 3 of the varying lengths ready to go at home.

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Back to 2023, we had total failure of the rear dampers as we went across the top of Scotland, became slightly bouncy, but much more comfortable in the back.

We had a “ failed to start” after filling up just before Popham, bump start and wiggle of wires on starter fixed it at Popham.

Other issues were a dodgy earth causing 1 dip beam to go and off randomly Friday night, didn’t do it Saturday.

Slight weep from water pump, blower on heater didn’t work (poor pre-event testing), centre prop bearing started to get noisy. Brake servo intermittently made brakes pulse.

nothing that needed major repair during the run.

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18 hours ago, Colin Cutts said:

It would be nice to find out what percentage of cars arrived back at Knebworth by model ie if 4 tr7 started out and only 3 finished that would equate to 75 percent or is this being a bit nit picking 

HI Colin, I am working on that at this moment. If you look at pages 19,21 and 23 of the Roadbook, you will see a chart that shows the completions from previous RBRRs for each particular Triumph Model.

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On 13/10/2023 at 10:58, JohnD said:

AndyA, put an ammeter across the fuse and see what current it's taking? If it's near the rating then you might need a higher current fuse, or better to split the circuit and spread the load across two fuses.    This site says that you should ensure that " the load current does not exceed 70% of the rated current"!   Fuse characteristics | Fuse outline | Automotive Fuses|PEC (pecj.co.jp)

My multimeter won't measure above 10A, but you may have a better one.

Well done, Team 139 and iani!   For common sense fixes, and respect for having a spare alternator!  But still, I wonder about the range, size and weight of the comprehensive set of spares that includes an alternator!  Normally a reliable ancillary, wouldn't a testing it before you go be a better way?   I'm sure that when ST did the run in the day (if they really did!)  they would test it beforehand!

John

 

HI John,

 

Last sentence querying if ST or BL did enter the event?

Yes, they did. They entered many a car in the early days of the RBRR. 2000 mk2 before it had been announced, Dolomite Sprints, TR7s, TR8s (these cars being used again this year) and Acclaims.

I can provide evidence.

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I doubt you in the slightest, Tim!

However, am I wrong in thinking that an inspiration for the RBRR was that ST had its own Round Britain testing circuit?  Or was that legendary?

If not, it's no criticism!  "When the legend becomes fact, print the legend.” (The Man who shot Liberty Vallance, 1962)

 

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No real problems for us im pleased to say. 16 runs completed now.

Though couldnt adjust the heater from the controls on the stag. Have to reach under the dash to adjust the valve directly. And avoid getting burnt doing it.

The cable clip had broken prior to event. Those who have a stag may realise that the car first part into a stag shell is that clip!!!! Still got that particular job to look forward to.

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5 hours ago, Tim Bancroft said:

Blasted water pumps that are being sold are not that good....generally the County ones.

Canley's one is good though, cannot remember the make of them though.

I intend to use my GT6 for the next RBRR.

 

Tim, I think with the County pumps it depends whether you get a 'good' one to start with or not. Have used them on my 2000 since 2010 and the TR since it went back on the road in 2019, no problems with either over many thousands of miles. 2000 has done 4x RBRR and 3x 10CR etc. So, I've probably jinxed it now!

Matt

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On 12/10/2023 at 16:35, GT64fun said:

Andy

Your luggage area was almost full of spares and tools. No evidence of luggage or food!

I think in 2016/18 we got the balance about right and luckily didn't have to use any.

Ian

The tools and spares were all stashed on the parcel shelf behind the back seat and under the parcel shelf around the spare wheel  except for a small trolley jack in it's box which was on the seat. The rest of the back seat was filled up with luggage for the Sunday night hotel stay, snacks, warm/waterproof clothing and drinks. GT6s have quite a bit of room in them, I've done two week camping tours in Europe with tools and spares as well as the camping gear and luggage for two in the past.

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On 14/10/2023 at 12:31, Andy Flexney said:

I had a similar issue years ago and after changing the battery and still having the problem. I eventually found I had a bad earth. In this particular case it was the negative cable to battery terminal connector. Changed that and everything was fine with both old and new batteries.

After all that rain and the position of the Stag battery it could be that you have corrosion on one or both of the terminals.

Thanks. Have just checked the earths. Cleaned the link to the chassis from the battery. Should sort any problems there.

Tim

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