Spider Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Is it possible to remove the sump from a GT6 without removing the engine like it says in my Haynes manual. Reason for removal, stripped thread in the front alloy sealing block, that's why I have a large oil leak, the bolt dropped out. How do so called engineers who rebuild engines manage to strip threads? The engine in mine had been rebuilt by an "engineer" before I bought it. I have found two stripped threads so far, one in the front plate/timing cover (short screw) and now one in the front sealing block. I know the sealing block is aluminium and care must be taken not to overtighten the bolts but that is what torque wrenches are for. I have not stripped or cross threaded a nut or bolt since I was about 14 years of age,(35yrs ago) and I would not dare to call myself an engineer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 well you're obviously more of an 'engineer' than the other guy. ;)but yes you can remove the sump in situ,lift the engine as much as required after undoing the front mounts and it should come out,don't forget to remove the dipstick and the oil pickup may require some orientation of the sump to get round it.i've done it this way before with a 2.5 in a spit chassis which had bulges to accomodate the extra throw of the front conrods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 You don't need to remove the sump. This is quite a common issue and my Vitesse suffered the same fate.What I did was to fit a 5/16" UNF Helicoil to the damged thread. It can be done with the sump in situ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 Thanks for the info guys. I have replaced bolt and put threadlock on it for now in the hope that it will last until I have thrashed it up the hill at Prescott.I will take the sump off later just to see what other nightmares the "engineer" who rebuilt the engine has left for someone else to sort out. l will helicoil.the sealing block and fit studs, also weld up stripped thread in the front plate and recut a new thread Many thank'sSpider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 tssc are in the process of getting the sealing block made in steel,don't know if they are ready yet but may well be worth getting one if you are taking the sump off anyway.fit and forget. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcro Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 esxefi wrote:tssc are in the process of getting the sealing block made in steel,don't know if they are ready yet but may well be worth getting one if you are taking the sump off anyway.fit and forget. :)Yes I have seen their catalogue and it's in their now in steel. Can't remember if it's for the GT6 specifically or are they all the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithy Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 esxefi wrote:tssc are in the process of getting the sealing block made in steel,don't know if they are ready yet but may well be worth getting one if you are taking the sump off anyway.fit and forget. :)Pretty sure this is also available elsewhere - I must go have a look. Stoopid bit of design, wasn't it?Spider - you're going to lay a trail of oil right up Prescott Hill? Right-o, I'll be going ahead of you then. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 esxefi wrote:tssc are in the process of getting the sealing block made in steel,don't know if they are ready yet but may well be worth getting one if you are taking the sump off anyway.fit and forget. :)will almost certainly be cheaper to helicoil the ally one you already have - lighter too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 TSSC block is £30 plus couple quid P&P for members (it weighs 150g). Cheaper than the other ones available I am sure, as I think they were overseas, but much more expensive than a helicoil.Fit and forget? undoubtably. I am lucky enough to have a few spare alloy ones in the cupboard so will stick with them for a while.I am also lucky enough to know that I am the only one to have taken the engines in all but one of my cars apart, so I know no-one has butchered the block. CheersColin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 smithy wrote:Spider - you're going to lay a trail of oil right up Prescott Hill? Right-o, I'll be going ahead of you then. :) Smithy the oil will have all drained out by then! Oh just make sure you don't leave a trail of wax and polish when you go up the hill at Prescott. ;) I think the replacing of the bolt covered in loctite threadlock has stemmed the flow of oil for now. I will of course be checking it frequently between now and Prescott as the crank pulley chucks oil over the front offside disc, side engine covers not fitted. I will have to change pads as they are likely to be the cause of the brakes pulling to the nearside because of oil contamination. :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 thinking about it,if it was made from t6 billet alloy it would probably be strong enough anyway. :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 the main reason for the stripped threads is by fitting too long setscrews, these bottom out and a light nip pulls the threads,many repair with M8 or up to next unf . this applies to the timing cover and the sump screws,If you do take the sump off on car , should you have difficulty getting a sump to clear the suction tube , you can get to the 3 oil pump bolts through the gap and unscrew to let the pump drop into the sump, all depends on pump / tube design and splash gauze aperture .Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
100+ Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Bet that's fun trying to re-assemble it through the same gap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 My thoughts exactly.Pete is correct, do ensure when fitting the setscrews and cheese heads that they are fitted in the correct order-ask me how I know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyScrumpy Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 well I've tried and failed to get the sump off mine with the engine lifted as far as I am comfortable lifting it and it still won't clear the bellhousing.the chassis crossmember is in the way, as is the steering rack.it's the chassis crossmember and bellhousing that are the problems though.I am SERIOUSLY annoyed!How far can you lift the engine without causing problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt6878e Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 i could't get my sump off no matter how high i jacked the engine up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 5458 wrote:well I've tried and failed to get the sump off mine with the engine lifted as far as I am comfortable lifting it and it still won't clear the bellhousing.the chassis crossmember is in the way, as is the steering rack.it's the chassis crossmember and bellhousing that are the problems though.I am SERIOUSLY annoyed!How far can you lift the engine without causing problems?It will come out provided you remove the lower bellhousing bolts, also a bit of leverage with a bar or lump of timber. Perservere.And you can jack the engine till it contacts the bulkhead.I do'nt think anybody said it was easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 It will come oot, just got to jack it as high as it can go.I did a mod on mine,so it comes of even easier, :) :)also lets engine go in / oot easier too. :) :) :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 The engine mounts will need to be unbolted, but doesn't the transmission mount need to unbolt also so that it bends at the propshoft U-joint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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