Mark 3 GT6 restoration - here we go!

[Rubce]

Work has progressed this week with the rear section of the chassis de-rusted and primed. Rustbuster epoxy mastic paint has been applied since the above photo was taken. I have also been busy bead blasting the various suspension components and then priming them. About two thirds are done and hopefully I will get the other bits finished off this week. The underfloor heating in the kitchen is great for drying out paint on suspension items ;)

Bruce

[Rubce]

After a gap of a couple of weeks whilst I did some running repairs to the Stag, work on the GT6 has recommenced. Yesterday I finished the weld repairs to the chassis, which consisted of inserting repair sections to the two front outriggers and fitting new bolt tubes. The tubes are actually brake disc mounting bushes used on railway rolling stock which I had salvaged out of the scrap bin.

Bruce

[ferny]

You'll hate me for saying it, but from personal experience I'd now only ever replace the whole outrigger rather than repairing. Especially if the body is off the car. If that edge is weak from jacking then inside the box nearer the chassis will also be full of corrosion. Also gives you a chance to brace it. In fact, I'd go as far to say that if you've got the body off and there's any doubt in your mind about corrosion then get it off as it's the only time you have good access to be able to weld properly. Here's what I did to my Herald ones;

[Rubce]

Hi

I borrowed an endoscope and had a look inside the box section and it appeared fine. Put it this way, not bad enough to warrant spending 110quid on a new pair of outriggers. The repair section I have inserted is thicker plate than on a new rigger and the new tubes are actually solid bar drilled through which gives a wall thickness of about 8mm which will be fine to use as a jacking point and again way more substantial than the tube on a new rigger.

Hey ho

Cheers

Bruce

[Rubce]

A friend of mine made a spring compressor unit which would be both suitable for his motorbike and the GT6. Note the subtle addition of a clamp to enable the tool to be held firmly in a vice.

Bruce :)

[Rubce]

No more rolling around on the floor ;)

When I took the second unit apart I discovered that the damper has lost all its oil and was doing sod all which goes some way to explaining why the car was bottoming out at the front end for the month before I took it off the road for its resto.

[Sheepy]

Sometimes it's the simple ideas that work the best!  :)

It's progressing well, good work.

[Rubce]

Hi All

After cleaning up the lower wishbones I noticed that the nearside one has suffered some damage :(. It appears to have been dragging on the ground at some point in its past life ??) This is not something which has occurred during the four years we have owned the car.

Bruce

[thescrapman]

2806 wrote:

Hi All

After cleaning up the lower wishbones I noticed that the nearside one has suffered some damage :(. It appears to have been dragging on the ground at some point in its past life ??) This is not something which has occurred during the four years we have owned the car.

Bruce

Front Trunnion or vertical link failure. Part of the history of the car.

[JensH]

Take a look at the mounting points for the lower wishbone, could have done some damage on your frame.

[Rubce]

JensH wrote:

Take a look at the mounting points for the lower wishbone, could have done some damage on your frame.

Hi Jen

I have had a look and no further damage is evident.

Thanks

Bruce

[Rubce]

Hi All

Work progressing with the running gear. This morning I fitted polybushes to the wishbones, assembled the springs to the dampers and fitted new seals and bearings to the diff output shafts.

Regards

Bruce

[Rubce]

Evening All

Can anyone give me some guidance on how to go about replacing the front and rear oil seals on the gearbox. It is a 4 speed with D type overdrive fitted.

Thanks

Bruce

[Rubce]

Hi All

I continued work on the diff this afternoon with a new pinion oil seal fitted and new polybush rear mounts. Hopefully the new input and output oil seals I have fitted will eliminate/reduce the oil loss. I have ensured the split pin hole is clear of muck. All that is left to do is apply some rust killer and paint, mount onto the chassis and then fill with oil.

Regards

Bruce

[Rubce]

Comparison shot of the old rubber mounts and the new polybush type.

[Rubce]

Hi All

Started work at the weekend  on cleaning up the engine. The clutch is all oily so I am going to replace the rear crank oil seal and the gearbox front oil seal.

[Rubce]

The sump had an inch of sludge in it. YUK! This is despite me changing the oil every 3,000 miles. I have no idea when the sump was last off the engine. Looking on the bright side the next lot  new oil I put in should stay cleaner for a lot longer.

[Rubce]

There was evidence that the exhaust manifold gasket was starting to blow on the middle four cylinders.

[Rubce]

The crank shaft end float was excessive and when the thrust washers were removed and measured they were oversize ones which had become worn. After doing the calcs, fitting a new pair of 5 thou oversize will bring the crank end float back into the permitted range.

[Rubce]

The pipe adaptor and banjo bolt situated underneath the heater valve in the end of the inlet manifold were looking very corroded. The banjo disintegrated when I came to remove it today :-/

[Rubce]

Given how much crap was inside, it was amazing the heater was still functioning!

[Rubce]

I now have to work out how to remove the remains from the inlet manifold. Can anyone advise me of the thread size so I can run a tap down the hole?

[Rubce]

The pipe at the other end is not looking to healthy either. Can anyone tell me if this is a push in or press in fit?

Regards

Bruce

[Rubce]

Diff refitted to the chassis today.

[Rubce]

Thrust bearings renewed, engine block cleaned and painted, sump cleaned and painted.