Rubce Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 Bodytub and chassis separated for what I believe is the first time since the car was assembled in 1973. I suspect this because we struggled to find the 11th and 12th securing bolts. Eventually they were unearthed amongst the original factory fitted sound deadening pads on the rear deck. Our Scottish Terrier was supervising activities! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 The chassis appears to be in very good condition apart from the front outriggers which are deformed on their lower edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 We rolled the bodytub onto its side to allow good access to the underside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 The area around the rear spring had almost no paint or underseal remaining but so far I haven't found any holes in that area so it looks as if I have caught it in time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 2806 wrote:The area around the rear spring had almost no paint or underseal remaining but so far I haven't found any holes in that area so it looks as if I have caught it in time. mine was original factory color there :) also no underseal there , but the rest of the car has been undersealed many times before my ownership ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheepy Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 I think that's a common problem with the front outriggers, possibly due to people jacking them up there!Think you are fortunate that there is no more rot underneath, that's great news! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Bruce, thats the prob wid these old cars, its where ne one sees that ye got to look hard at.you gotta get as much as ye can out,or as Nick says,it,ll come back.the bonnet has got a few dubble panels,or folds, same as doors,tail gate, its where thees folds are, moisture gits in,and starts to play,wid the results shownon the bonnet ends, you can chop it all off,and weld a thicker bit of stip steel in, this will add strangth to this areathen weld sheet steel to it, and fill, but,the flat panels warp like mad when heat gets on em.Whilst ye at it, I would be looking very very closely at the screen pillars, they rot frae inside to oot, and ye prob fin a big rust patch at bottom inside corner where rubber hides it.and there is very little strengh left in the pillar, I pushed a Spitty one day Dad had got, shoulder on the pillar , and the pillar bent, as there was nothing left of it.the rear hatch, will have rust on the inside,inside the rubber area, try and fill the whole thing up wid a rust killer,and let t soak for ages,then fill wid wax oil,keep it warm, and see it ooze thru places., then drain, and it should be ok. dont drain it off, then it runs oot when sun heats it, and it come oot the two open holes at top, all owa what ye got inside, how doo I no this, !!!Also have a good look INSIDE the heater box, in the engine bay.this is known for rotting thru at the bottom,and then wata gets into car.mostly over looked this bit.you say chassis looks ok, dont look, bang, wid a big ammer, as this gives a good indication of the steels health.look closely around the dip where the drive shaft is, water collects in this dip,and rots it awayBang chassis all over, and then shake,or turn upside doon, and listen to the rust running aboot, cut hole in rear end, where tow eyes are, and stand on end, and bang away some moer,this will loosen o the scale rust,and it will fall oot the wol that you made.its a real night mare, but rust in hidden places takes some getting out, its a constant fight,if any left to carry on playing. good luck.M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Massive respect Bruce, this looks like a huge undertaking.That photo of the rear heelboard / radius arm bracket reminds me of something: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 2806 wrote:The chassis appears to be in very good condition apart from the front outriggers which are deformed on their lower edges.I agree that it's common, & a little weird come to think of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 rotoflex wrote:I agree that it's common, & a little weird come to think of it. One of mine outtriggers is also like that .. even weld a plate on to it (by one of the previous owners) :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 HiThe top edge of the outriggers seems flat enough and I simply thinking of trying to straight out the bottom edge. Perhaps welding on a strengthening plate is the way to go? I am also considering fitting new tubes as both bolts were seized into position and required their heads cutting off to enable the bodytub to lift off.RegardsBruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Considering what it does, if only support, it seems like this element should be more truss-like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Replace. But avoid a 'pattern' one.I always chop them off, as you newer know what is behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Hmm, I will set the grinder ans wire wheel onto them and see what turns up. If they have not been patched before I will attempt to straighten the bottom edges. I want to avoid changing them if possible as my budget could do without the hit!Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 I spent a few hours this afternoon dismantling the suspension. All the rear end is off, as is one side of the front. The only issue I came across was the bolt passing through the lower offside front trunnion refusing to come out despite a few hefty blows with the lump hammer :( I left it soak with some penetrating oil and will have another go tomorrow. Is the trunnion simply screwed onto the bottom of the vertical link? Anybody got any good tips for their separation?RegardsBruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Trunnion should just screw onto the vertical link, but bear in mind they are handed, to the best of my knowledge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 having just been putting mine on, the wishbone at the bottom has a slightly oval shape to it. If you were to release the ball joint at the top and unscrew the hub/upright assembly away from the trunnion at the bottom you will probable find your able to tap the trunion up and down a small amount to break it free... It is a tight joint and you may find the trunion metal seals have deteriated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 The chassis is now stripped and I have started to clean it up with the use of a grinder and wire wheel. A large proportion of the filth was successfully transfered onto me and I ended up covered from head to foot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 The grinder and wire wheel uncovered a few holes. :( This is the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 This is the underside of one of the front outriggers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 And after I cleaned it up a bit. This is not the first time that section has been repaired as indicated by the twin thickness section and the drain hole being blocked up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 The garage now contains a giant Airfix kit ;DOh, for a larger workshop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Bruce, thats what I was saying about the inside of chassis be full of crap.that crap hold moisture,so adds to prob.bang all owa with a hammer to get it off, then get it out the chassis,bet ye did nae think it going to be as bad,!!!M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 Hi MarkusActually the chassis is much better condition than I was expecting :). That nasty section on the bodytub was not!!!!! :'( I will be doing your hammer banging suggestion at the weekend when I have it dangling off my crane. ;)ThanksBruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 Hi AllEtching primer starting to go on the chassis. :)Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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