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Mark 3 GT6 restoration - here we go!


Rubce

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93 wrote:
Looking really good. One day I will start on my GT6. which has a 'rat' look at the moment, part primer part faded paint. What paint did you use for the primer,etch and finish?

Mark


Hi Mark

I used Etchweld and 2k high build primer and 2k top coat. If you want the specific brands of the 2k I can have a look at the tins when I am next at the workshop.

Regards

Bruce

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Hi All

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

This evening I connected up the battery, primed the engine and turned the key and it started. I heard that lovely sound of a 6 pot for the first time in 354 days. I started her again a few minutes later and she fired on the first turn of the key. It was also the first occasion that current was flowing around my home made wiring harness. There is a small water leak from one hose and an oil leak from where the spin on filter adaptor meets the block but nothing serious.

Another milestone passed. Now to put some brake fluid in and perhaps go for a drive around the farmyard this weekend.

Bruce

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Hi All

After filling the brake system with fluid I went for a short drive around the farmyard this afternoon. It was great to be driving it again after a a gap of 357 days! The front carb started to flood but a few lusty blows with a rubber mallet cured that problem. The other problem is that the brake servo is not functioning ??). This is an unexpected blow as a replacement is in the region of £140 and I will have to re-bleed the brakes :'(.

So three steps forward, one back.

Onwards and upwards

Bruce

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Start the car, let it run for a minute, switch off!

Then pump the pedal until it goes hard!
While keeping the pedal pressed, start the engine

You should feel the pedal depress further! If not then the servo is at fault, perhaps an internal leak!

It's difficult to hear with the engine running, but does it hiss at all around the servo? Try listening to it, as you get someone to switch off the engine.

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Hi Shaun.

The brake pedal has little or no resistance. The master cylinder and front calipers, pipes and hoses are all new. The rear cylinders are only 18months old. When I filled the system with fresh dot4 I believe I got all (most) of the air out.

The only way I can get the pedal to go hard is by repeatedly pumping it with the engine running.

Regards

Bruce

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Are the brakes adjusted up correctly?

You say the master cylinder is new! Why? Was the old one leaking?
I ask because if you have a leaking master cylinder, and the fluid leaks into the servo then the diaphragm could be perished! New servo time!

Is the new master cylinder ok? It could be faulty!
Turn off engine, press pedal until it goes hard, sit and hold pressure on the pedal, see if it creeps down! If so, then fluid is leaking past the seals!

Is the engine crating vacuum? Pipe not blocked?
If you run the engine, then switch off, pull off the vacuum pipe, it should hiss as it sucks in the air?

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Hi Shaun

Thanks for your suggestions.

The old master cylinder was not using brake fluid but when I came to refit it I noticed that the front seal was weeping so I decided to replace the cylinder. I will repair he old at some point and retain as a spare.

The rear brakes are set up correctly as I simply removed the rear hubs and refitted during the resto as I had rebuilt them with new bearings and shafts early last year. The front calipers and pads are self adjusting aren't they.

I will try the vacuum pipe check tomorrow evening plus check the new master cylinder for signs of leaks.

Regards

Bruce

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Yes fronts self adjusting.

Another quick way we had to test if the rears were adjusted enough (without jacking up and spinning the wheel)
Pull on the hand brake, then release a few clicks so its still on but not binding, then pump the pedal a few times.
This lets the wheel cylinders take up the slack, and it acts like the shoes are fully adjusted, then when you press the pedal it will feel like it should when it's adjusted.
If it still goes down, and you need to pump, then (is it spongy?) that's air in system, if not and it goes down then it could be a servo fault.
(it would be so easy if I was there to see and diagnose the fault!)

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Hello Bruce, I must apologise, this is the first time I have read your thread due to being busy doing a bit of restoration work myself, it was nice to see my old workshop and even nicer to see how your car was coming along, I think I'm a bit behind you.

I was going to ask if anyone had made a wiring loom for a GT6 as mine is in a very bad condition and see that you have already done that, do you have a readme on how to do it or could you write one, I would rather replace mine as the wires are to brittle in my opinion to put back together and I would like to replace it?

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Quote:
Hello Bruce, I must apologise, this is the first time I have read your thread due to being busy doing a bit of restoration work myself, it was nice to see my old workshop and even nicer to see how your car was coming along, I think I'm a bit behind you.

I was going to ask if anyone had made a wiring loom for a GT6 as mine is in a very bad condition and see that you have already done that, do you have a readme on how to do it or could you write one, I would rather replace mine as the wires are to brittle in my opinion to put back together and I would like to replace it?


http://www.mygt6.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/GT6MkIIIwiring.jpg

If you havent seen this before Benny it may be very useful when creating a loom.

I have found it most useful when carrying out electrical work on mine...

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