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Mark 3 GT6 restoration - here we go!


Rubce

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Out and about around the farmyard today 8). Engine was up to full temperature and everything seemed water tight. There was a fuel leak from adjacent to the front carb but I traced that to the main fuel hose which wasn't full home on the metal pip protruding from the carb. After pushing it a further 5mm all was sorted!

Bruce

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7952 wrote:
Impressive work Bruce, Where how you found the time in space of a year to do this project? I'm lucky to spend a full day in two weeks, if I get an hour.


Hi. Several late nights per week starting at 8.30pm ish after putting our son to bed and working throught to midnight. Plus half a day per weekend when possible. Balancing working on the car, with my real job and raising a young family is a challenge!

Regards

Bruce

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Hi.

I am puzzled and frustrated in equal measure >:( This evening I had another go at getting the brakes to work effectively. With the help of an assistant the brakes were rebleed and yes lots of air came out. Eventually we came to the position where no more bubbles were appearing at any of the four wheels. This was after using nearly two litres of brake fluid. Despite this the brake pedal is still soft. Repeated pumping does not make it go harder. With the engine running the pedal does harden slightly but not greatly. With the engine running a hissing noise can be heard coming from the servo when the pedal is pressed. If I switch off the engine and pump the pedal I can hear hissing from the servo. This lasts for a few pedal pumps and then stops. There are no visible brake fluid leaks anywhere.

Does the hissing mean the servo is knackered?

Any suggestions as to why the pedal is soft and not hardening up?

Help!

Thanks

Bruce

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Bruce,
While I have not done this myself I have read a number of threads that confirm it works most of the time, that is to pump the brake pedal until firm then wedge it with a suitable piece of wood in the depressed state and leave overnight, it would appear to be something to do with new fluid and master cylinders drawing fluid back.
worth a try!

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junkuser wrote:
If the hiss is only for a short time when the pedal is depressed, then it could just be air being drawn out of the Servo, so normal.
Usually not heard over the background noise level whilst driving.


Hi

Thanks for the reply. The windscreen has yet to be fitted hence the ability to hear the servo.

Regards

Bruce

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5926 wrote:
Bruce,
While I have not done this myself I have read a number of threads that confirm it works most of the time, that is to pump the brake pedal until firm then wedge it with a suitable piece of wood in the depressed state and leave overnight, it would appear to be something to do with new fluid and master cylinders drawing fluid back.
worth a try!


Hi

Thanks for replying. The pedal won't go hard so I am unsure how I could attempt this idea.

Regards

Bruce

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I can vouch I've had that work, but yes not being able the achieve step one does limit it's use to you lol.

If you can't pump it up hard at all I would haven to think faulty master cylinder or badly bulging flexis. I bloody hate brakes that won't play the game fairly! Last trouble I had was with a bulging flexi, I had visually inspected them with an assistant pumping before, but this time ran my hand along them when under pressure and found I had missed it by eye but once I knew it was there it was really obvious  :B

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2806 wrote:


Hi. Several late nights per week starting at 8.30pm ish after putting our son to bed and working throught to midnight. Plus half a day per weekend when possible. Balancing working on the car, with my real job and raising a young family is a challenge!

Regards

Bruce


I'm in the same boat. I just won't let my wife know you did yours in a year while I am passing the the 17 year mark. ;)

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The painter called round today to remove a few bits of dirt and a run from the paintwork, followed by wet sanding and mopping the entire car. It gleams now 8)

I just need to sort out the tracking now. The adjuster nut on the nearside is seized at the moment.

Regards

Bruce  

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Just realised that I never posted this photo of the drivers door hinges. The door kept dropping as all six of the thread holes in the two captive plates were knackered. I had forgotten about this whilst the car was a bare shell which of course would have been the perfect time to fit some new plates! Anyway, when I came to hang the painted door onto the painted shell, I remembered about the problem with the hinges. DOH!

What was to be done? Well the original holes were 5/16" so I tapped them all out to M10 and fitted new setscrews. I cut a small hole in the A post so I could get access to fit a nut onto the leading setscrew of the top plate. I also fitted a nut onto the leading setscrew of the bottom plate. The four holes nearest the door had to have caphead setscrews as there was insufficient clearance for the normal hex head type. Not original but I am not bothered as I am the only person who will see them.

Situation recovered!

Phew

Bruce

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Hi All

Time and weather permitting I am hoping to put a few miles on the GT6 this weekend. Its new and last tax disc arrived in the post today. Come next April it becomes tax exempt like all other Gt6's.

I need to richen the mixture up somewhat as it was only registering 0.1% on the emissions where it should be between 0.5 and 2.5%. I would have adjusted at the MOT but I didn't have the carb tool with me. Anyone know many turns I need to make to the needles to move it from 0.1% to 1.5%? They are 1.5" emissions Strombergs where the adjustment is down through the dashpot.

Regard

Bruce

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Hi All

Yesterday I took the GT6 out for a local shakedown run after undertaking a few adjustments post MOT. Whilst zipping along a local lane at 50mph on the way back to the workshop, there was thud followed by the engine revs going 4,000+.  ??) I quickly switched the ignition off and coasted to a stop. After popping the bonnet I couldn't see anything immediately wrong so I turned the engine on again and the revs went sky high again instantly :-/.

So after getting her towed the 1/2 mile home I investigated further. I found that the accelerator cable had popped out of its mounting cup on the throttle linkage. Upon looking further I discovered that the right hand side engine rubber mount had sheared ??) thereby allowing the engine to drop by approximately 10mm which is presumably what had allowed the throttle cable to jump and hence cause the engine revs to go skywards. The rubber has completely detached from the steelwork.

I didn't replace the engine mounts when I did the resto as they were new two years ago. Oh fool me! I hate rubber items on classic cars.

So, a new replacement pair of mounts are now on order for fitment later this week.

Bruce :(

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