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My Spitfire Restoration


molten

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Thanks for the positive comments fella's. I need all the encouragement I can get just now - body prep is mind-numbingly tedious.
A little pic of whats under the quilt in front of the bulkhead - had to repaint over POR15, begining to react with UV...

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2875 wrote:
Just reading this entire thread in awe! Keep going! I'll raise a pint to you when you post the final pics! :)


Cheers Brendan
I hope to get it finished for next summer thats if it does'nt finish me first :-/
Must admit, I would not want to do all this again. This is my first resto and I feel that I have 'broke its back' just now.

Hit  a liitle concern today - when flatting back the guide coat on primer, I cut though the HB and exposed some of the zinc coat. Some of the primer must be a little thin in places and not sure if this is fine or should add more primer. Any thoughts on this gents?

Cheers
scott

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Alex wrote:
I'd be inclined to add more.....its alot simpler to do now than after you've painted the colour coat ;)


I agree Alex.
I will be priming the boot lid in the morning so think I will go over it a little - might mean a little more flatting though so think I will use 1.4mm tip to keep it to minimum  ;)

Cheers

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Now managed to prep and paint bonnet.
2 good coats of bonda zinc (1.5mm tip) & 3 good coats of High build primer (1.7mm tip)
This bonda stuff dries very hard and 800 grit bearly touches it when flatting. It also has a window of 6-24 to be topcoated with cellulose or you have to wait 7 days, not got that luxury.
Now waiting for hb to harden as I tried to flat off after 1 hr - no good need to wait.

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Hi
I sprayed cellulose finnish coat directly onto Bonda Zinc, and although I went over it with wet and dry to give what I thought was a good key, several years later the the top coat has started to crack and flake off in a couple of spots, but the Bonda primer is solid. This is where presumably I missed rubbing down. Like you say Bonda is hard and it definitely Helps stop the rust.

Mark

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93 wrote:
Hi
I sprayed cellulose finnish coat directly onto Bonda Zinc, and although I went over it with wet and dry to give what I thought was a good key, several years later the the top coat has started to crack and flake off in a couple of spots, but the Bonda primer is solid. This is where presumably I missed rubbing down. Like you say Bonda is hard and it definitely Helps stop the rust.

Mark


Hi Mark
Can you remember when appling the paint on top of the bonda, was it within the times mentioned above or before 6 hours?
Also, was the topcoat cellulose?
You got me a little worried now :o
Thanks
scott

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, got a little more progress today.
Sorted problems witrh my gun and got some colour on the tub & boot lid.
This is my first ever spray job and it is not perfect, got a few runs and seem some areas whith poor coverage.
Few pics to look at

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Make sure you put lots of colour on as the last thing you want when you cut it back is to go back to primer.This is what happened to me when I painted the saloon,I'm hoping I've learnt from my mistakes.
Mistake 1.Spend more time on prep.
            2.Put more paint on.
            3.Generally take more time and be in less of a rush.

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I think alex is right.
I have put a mist coat then 2 full coats on (data sheet says 2 full coats) and have done a little colour sanding on a test area and can see a little thin spot. So...

My plan is to get bonnet and doors sprayed on Monday, get them back on the car then use fine scotch pad over all the external surface of the car (except bulkhead) and apply a couple more coats, colour sand then apply clear laquer.
I know this might sound like overkill and a lot more work but it will give me piece of mind.

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2597 wrote:


Hi Mark
Can you remember when appling the paint on top of the bonda, was it within the times mentioned above or before 6 hours?
Also, was the topcoat cellulose?
You got me a little worried now :o
Thanks
scott


Hi Scott
Sorry for the late reply, I missed the thread somehow. I overpainted it with cellulose a good few weeks after the Bonda primer was applied. I have also used the Bonda on the Vitesse I am rebuilding at the moment. It adheres well to the bare metal and I can only think the reason the top coat has lifted in a couple of spots was because I didn't give the area enough of a key. What top coat have you used, cellulose or 2k? It's looking good.

Mark

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93 wrote:


Hi Scott
Sorry for the late reply, I missed the thread somehow. I overpainted it with cellulose a good few weeks after the Bonda primer was applied. I have also used the Bonda on the Vitesse I am rebuilding at the moment. It adheres well to the bare metal and I can only think the reason the top coat has lifted in a couple of spots was because I didn't give the area enough of a key. What top coat have you used, cellulose or 2k? It's looking good.

Mark


Hi Mark

It is cellulose. Delft blue - the ofiginal colour.
I put the celly primer on within 24 hrs as recomended so hope the celly primer 'sank' in ok then left a week to harden off properly.
Gloss coat approx 4 wks later.

Cheers
scott

Cheers
scott

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bonnet now painted and doors. Put drivers door back on and protected.
Unfortunately, I ran out of paint when getting second coat on doors so will def be getting more paiint in few weeks to blow over 2 more coats over all car with  other door on and boot fixed in position.

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cheers Alex
As I say, not perfect but for 1st paint job - not bad. I managed to get the best finish on the near side bonnet area when I decided to get a little closer about 4 inches - hardly any orange peel unlike other side. At least I will get is right when I blow it back over.
Thanks
scsott

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