molten Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Alex wrote:Scott are you going to go over it with a bit of 800/1200 or something before you blow it over again?Just thinking you could remove some orange peal that way......Yes Alex, (think 800grit whilst I will go over again) thats the plan anyway :oThen 2000 grit before and after laquer. :'(Thanks for the encouragement Roy. I want to do everything posible myself on this car, with the exception of some powder coat in severl bits.Cheersscott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Scott, really man am quite impressed. I really need to get myself to a panel beaters course and painting. It really has saved you a fortune and at the end you can say that you did it.Keep up with the photo's, looking forward to the completion.Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 2402 wrote:Scott, really man am quite impressed. I really need to get myself to a panel beaters course and painting. It really has saved you a fortune and at the end you can say that you did it.Keep up with the photo's, looking forward to the completion.Chris.Many Thanks Chris.I went on a med cruise on 2nd aug - just back this aft. This is my first project, have never attempted something like this before. In fact before this project, I couldnt even weld. Taught myself on this project. Never painted before neither so just speant a lot of time researching how-to. You're right about saving money mate, I couldnt affort to pay someone to do it and I thought well I dont think its beyond me but I have to say a thanks to forum members for advice and tips.Thanks again for your encouragement chris and I will inded keep the photo's coming.Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkB Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 Hi ScottLooking really good. I Don't understand the need to laquer over the top coat. As long as you have put enough paint on, the cellulose paint will polish up like glass.Keep up the good work.Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 Superb work mate, I can weld, but I would never attempt my own paint job. Good on you mate.ROb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 93 wrote:Hi ScottLooking really good. I Don't understand the need to laquer over the top coat. As long as you have put enough paint on, the cellulose paint will polish up like glass.Keep up the good work.MarkHi MarkYou are quite correct here mate but celly paint fades quicker than 2k, the laquer is simply so that the inevitable fading effects the laquer only and not the colour. There may be flaws in my logic but this method seems good for my needs. The only problems may be if stone chips do through to the colour otherwise only future repairs will be to laquer only - i hope ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James1500 Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Looking good, everything's a learning curve when you attempt it yourself, Don't worry too much about the orange peel, you can flat and polish the majority of that out afterwards :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simo Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Wow you guys realy geting on with it lookin god , i am just cutting outm my boot floor and chippng away loads of filler in the iner wings and repair the inner boot floor lips , i have a questiona bout the tub how do you manage to support it when you flip it over i realy wanan have it on it's site or upsidedown how did you do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 3155 wrote:Wow you guys realy geting on with it lookin god , i am just cutting outm my boot floor and chippng away loads of filler in the iner wings and repair the inner boot floor lips , i have a questiona bout the tub how do you manage to support it when you flip it over i realy wanan have it on it's site or upsidedown how did you do this? Hello SimoI made a rottiserie to mount it on and rotate it.[Sorry, link no longer available]Failing this, you could turn it over onto some tyres - onto its side.Cheersscott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simo Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Wel i have acess to a engine stand and some srong tube so will knock something up , how heavy is the tub can 2 people pick it up? i have to put boot floor in first and repair the passinger floor and inner sill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Garvey Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Simo - two people easy...wife at the back...it's lighter... ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Lacquer won't really protect against fading as it's clear - so light gets through it, although the lacquer itself won't fade. What tends to happen is that over a long period of time, the lacquer turns yellow - which will change the colour of the car a bit. Modern cellulose is a lot more resistant to these things than it used to be, so it would be a long time before you had problems. If you use the car plenty it'd be up for another resto/respray by then anyway.One advantage you will have is that putting lacquer over it gives you a lot more breathing room to get a fantastic shine (you can cut it deeper), and also when the car gets scratched, if it's light then colour matching is a non-issue - you just fill the scratched area with clear lacquer and it matches perfectly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Cheers Bainzy - a couple of good points there. Already got the laquer so might as well use it - or not - hmmmmmm :-/Anyway to relieve some of the monotony, and whilst I am not a million miles away from getting interior back in, I thought I would turn to interior - door pads in particular. The original crappy hardboard ones are well past their best so I decided to remove the old vinyl and foam and use the cardd as a template to make new ones with 3.6mm ply. Far more superior to h/board and more rigid. I have bought a cream/white with burgundy piping used seat covers. Thought it would look good aginst the dark blue. Not everyones cup of tea I am sure but didnt want the run of the mill look. I plan to make my own door pads including two-tone (cream/white & burgundy) vinyl covers for door pads - burgundy at bottom. My new carpet is beige in colour with maroon piping so should look ok together - I hope.Anyway pics for you, 1 of old card & of new door card below. Will do other during the week.Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 That looks so tidy, it's almost a shame to cover it up with vinyl! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 1381 wrote:That looks so tidy, it's almost a shame to cover it up with vinyl!yeah - vast improvement. I am sure that with a bit more thought (maybe a second layer) a wooden door card could be made and veneered. Hate to catch it wi mi boot tho :(Put window mech and lock levers in that door tonight for trial run. All went well but the glass track looks to be sticking up a bit high. Apart from that it was pretty simple. I was putting it off as I thought i would have some trouble with glass carrier. Surprising how easu things are when you do them the correct way isnt it? Not like when i took them out! >:(Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teq Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Wow ....Great thread, keep up the great work, fantastic job you have been doing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Thanks teqBeen skiping from one area to another between fund-raisers ;) When the money runs dry (which it tends to until payday comes) its suprising what else you can get on with until monthly funds arrive again ;))Just had another batch of paint delivered so will be wet-flatting with 800grit to prep for a few more coats and get good even shade all over. With enough paint on I should be able to flat back with some 1500 before some clear laquer (I know its not needed but I already have it so might as well use it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 Been a while since I posted any progress on this so here are a few more pics for youFlatted paint back and gave couple more full coats.Tried l/h 1/4 light in to see how it looks. Looks good.Installed front brake lines (dry run). Can anyone say if they are routed correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 pic of brake lines. Think they can be routed a bit neater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Scott your brakes are different to mine mine are dual circuit but otherwise it looks the same.Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 just wondering if anyone has a photo of that top brake line (across bulkhead) routed a better/neater way than in the photo above?Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Yeh there's a factory way of doing it that looks really neat, will try find a pic for you Scott.Edit: PM sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Mine aren't bad, here's a pic of the car shortly after I bought it:This differs from the factory method a bit in that the pipe goes almost straight to the P clip after leaving the master cylinder.As you'll see in the photo I sent you, originally the pipe ran flat along the bulkhead for about 2 inches (past the rubber boot for the cluch MC), THEN turned at a 45 degree angle right before the P clip.I think mine also leaves the bulkhead later than the factory installed pipes did, yours looks about right as it is now in where it drops down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 Cheers bainzythat is a big help. Ignore my last question on PM. Photo above answers that.Much obligedScott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hi AllThought I'd post an update as its been a while since I posted on this thread.AnyhooooooooooWith a BIG thanks to Bill (Rarebits), I managed to sort out bulkhead parts in place with grommets and blanking plugs added too. So with the exception of a couple of small bolts, throttle cable and speedo cable, bulkhead is complete.Moved on to recovering dashtop which turned out acceptable but not perfect and today made some windscreen surrounds and glued them in position then fitted the dashtop. All looks so much better.New veneered dash panels fitted back in complete with instruments and electrical conections refitted. Tomorrow is planned to complete electrics and test circuitry with new spade terminal fusebox fitted. Next will be locate drivers glovebox and passenger glovebox support rail. Then carpets install. Few pics for you...ThanksScott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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