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My Spitfire Restoration


molten

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After an experience like this, rewarding as it is in the end, you look longer and harder for something requiring less body repair next time.  It just goes on and on.  Mechanicals are one thing, rust repair is something altogether different.  For those of us who've been there we feel your pain.  Stick with it.

Once again, outstanding work!

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Stripped vatcan off undercarriage and paint to metal. Not pretty to look at but all metal is solid and all seam welded.
Took scroll sander to it with pleasing results - the surface rust came off. Will need to continue removing as much as I can before treating with phosphoric acid. A few pics for you:

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3155 wrote:
ok here an update on my 1500 , just one prob cant get drivers floor to get down enough to line up with sill and a post ? wish you could get hold of new bulkhead too



Hi Simon
If you look on page 5 of this thread you will see a photo of a similar problem. I noticed from you last photo that the floor pan is not there. Am I right?  I cannot tell properly but can see the chassis outrigger so presume to be right. If so you are best to set f/p in position 1st with support underneath. Then inner sill and so on. It may be that a previous f/p had been fitted but jacked up too high - now you will struggle to line anything up properly.
I had to add extra curvature to the bottom of the outer sill so as not to open up the gap under the door when fitted. Bulkhead repair - been there done that. Can be tricky with the radius.
If you can confirm that the floorpan is too high - you may have to weigh it down, but dont forget to use timber and jack under it to make dure it is well supported.

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Just noticed in other pics that the front bulkhead is not secured. This should have the correct shims etc under it to raise the tub slightly. Of course your new mounting bracket is not yet welded in so not possible. With these cars its always best to do all structural metalwork whilst the tub is bolted to chassis with correct body mounting kit - in an ideal world!!
If it was shimmed it will give you some etra room to weigh the floor pan down to a workable (checked) level and tac sill materials to.

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Hey ok well thanks for info there  i guess i should have porvided a better description as to what i am doing, i removed floor, inner sills, because of rot but i am hoping to kep the sill in place to give me some refrence, ok  
it has had a nwe floor at some point and was welded over top of original one witch took time to remove and was confusing
I got the 2 spacers from the buld head mounting so thats ok in process of welding it on , so that be ok and measuer form other side so that should be ok
the outer sill does have to be pushed up to fit the inner sill ok it spings out , maybe tack the inner sill and a post lower in place first then know there the right distance then make floor fit?
it not easy to get it all to lign up and the bulkhead if a difficult job to get looking good

a lot of a blabble hope you can understand some of this
i got a new bracket for the floor to outrigger too old one was reel bad nto fun fitting that

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well progress is very slow at the moment (as usual) but finally removed all accesable rust - tedious repeated applications of phosphoric acid/wire brush.
Finally managed to get some paint on underside:
1st coat bonda rust primer (to deal with any rust that i may have missed / cannot get to.
Then PU sealed all weld joins, seams to sills- boot- vallance etc,
Then installed blanking plugs and PU sealed then in.
Then 2nd coat of primer.

Now need to decide if i will stonechip or not??????????? :-/

Cheers

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Hi Simo
Glad to see your getting on with it. Few quids worth of floor-pan & inner wheel arch there  :'( big hole in yr pocket now!! Looks like your tub had gone in exactly the same areas as mine. Be making sure of full weather protection on metal..

I made a simple rotisserie to rotate the tub - http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1298228615/

Just ready to get some colour on underside + wax then turn back over and bolt down to chassis. Then the tedious bodprep begins  :'(

Cheers

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Molten - Great work....just started a mark 3 project myself I have stipped the tub and its being blasted as we speak so am sure there will be some work to do just not sure how much.

Quick question on the chasis I assume you completely stipped this. How did you take it back to the bare metal want to save myself the expense of getting this blasted as well

Regards

Rich

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Having spent a looong time with the grinder/wire brush on my chassis, I reckon blasting is good value. Likewise all the small stuff, it takes forever to get it all clean, and then not as good as blasting. I live and learn, but rather slowly.

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3515 wrote:
Molten - Great work....just started a mark 3 project myself I have stipped the tub and its being blasted as we speak so am sure there will be some work to do just not sure how much.

Quick question on the chasis I assume you completely stipped this. How did you take it back to the bare metal want to save myself the expense of getting this blasted as well

Regards

Rich


Hi Rich
I used some twist-knot attachments on angle grinder to strip chassis. As for the upper & lower susp arms, I just rubbed the paint down as the paint was quite reasonable here. I would have had it blasted but did not have the funds at the time.

Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

A bit further forward with the resto (not much though).
Managed to get a coat of delft blue chassis paint (enamel) on underside and will need another coat tomorrow. A few pics below.
Also repaired & refurb'd the door window mechanisms - alfter some minor rust removal I cold galvanised and sprayed with clear wax protection ready to refit.

Next is to fit the new O/D mount plate to chassis, turn tub over and bolt down before doing a dry run of doors on, bonnet on, h/top on so I can prep the exterior body for paint.

Seems to be taking an eternity this car.... :'( I just want to drive the blasted thing. Long way to go yet...

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  • 1 month later...

OK, took a while to get here but finally managed to get some paint on the spit.

2 coats zinc and theyn 3 hb primer. Just wainting now until mid-week fore flatting back (and filling the pin-holes I missed before paint).
800g w&d to flat off, but still need to prime boot & bonnet so will get that done wid-week.

Back soon (hopefully)

Scott

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