mark spit Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Don't think it matters wether rack or roll bar nut as long as it's to the chassis somewhere, unless it's for concours originality.YoursMark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithy Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 I don't think it matters either, but it must be on, else one of the ignition wires may fry, and a small fire ensue, producing a lot of smoke and excitement. Ask me how I know. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 Been some time since I posted on this thread but I have some excellent news.I started her up tonight on third key turn ;-) Not had a running engine for 16 yrs so a revival indeed. Thanks to all the forum members that posted help over the last couple years.just need a few tips to fine tune timing.Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967 MkIII Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Excellent news indeed! always great to keep an old girl alive :)I'm no help at all on timing I'm afraid, mine's gone all modern & electricked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 SPITTING FIRE INDEED!!!Car has stainless 4-2-1 manifolds that are heat-wrapped. I was almost frightened to death when I noticed the manifolds literally glowing bright red all way to single pipe. The heat wrap was also glowing bright red!!Is this normal?Despatately need someone in the know to reply here ASAP please.Thanksscott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Doesn't sound normal. Are you sure the ignition and valve timing is correct?Can you check the idle advance with a strobe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 1381 wrote:Doesn't sound normal. Are you sure the ignition and valve timing is correct?Can you check the idle advance with a strobe?Hi rickYeh, gonna do that tomorrow. Would even incorrect idle advance have such a drastic effect?If valve timing was wrong would it make the pipes glow so hot?Not a clue on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 2597 wrote:[spitting fire indeed!!] Car has stainless 4-2-1 manifolds that are heat-wrapped. I was almost frightened to death when I noticed the manifolds literally glowing bright red all way to single pipe. The heat wrap was also glowing bright red!!Is this normal? Despatately need someone in the know to reply here ASAP please. Thanks scottBeen there, mine glowed in the dark and it wsn't the reactor next door.Ignition is retarded too far.Fuel is burning as it leaves the chambers - it should have burnt before that!John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 I was going to suggest running a bit weak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted April 28, 2013 Author Share Posted April 28, 2013 JohnD wrote:Been there, mine glowed in the dark and it wsn't the reactor next door. Ignition is retarded too far. Fuel is burning as it leaves the chambers - it should have burnt before that!JohnThanks johnso not likey to be anything to do with valve timing then? As that was my grey area?If fuel is burning as its leaving the pots, VT may be in error-yes?Is it a case of simply turning the dizzy- basically (not that simple).?I was thinking same as mikeb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 Unless something else is wrong (points, dizzy drive etc) then you are right, it should just be a case of turning the dizzy (after slackening the clamp!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted April 28, 2013 Author Share Posted April 28, 2013 Sorted. Big thanks gents. No longer glowing. :)Noticed that the throttle return spring is missing too and the throttle not returning quickly enough. Any tips for ballancing carbs?Thanks johnd.mikeyb- where is the damned fuel mixture screw?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 Noticed a little oil puddle from the bottom of the rear engine plate :(Dont want to have to pull the gearbox off to tighten the plate bolts (hoping gasket not need replacing). Obviously this only occured during the last couple days when engine began running (under pressure). Is it likely that the plate bolts would need further tightening of more the gasket failure or anything else?Great to have the car running but dont like to see it 'bleeding' :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 2597 wrote:Any tips for ballancing carbs?I used one of these on the GT, nice bit of kit.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dellorto-Weber-synchrometer-carb-balancer-tool-made-in-Germany-not-China-/290682796527?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43ae0b79ef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 Well filled up new brake lines with dot5 fluid today and the clutch.piped up the fuel tank and poured some fuel in the tank. Clutch worked fine and I actualy drove the car (albeit only a few yards)forward and reverse. Great feeling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Ignitiion timing was my problem.Too weak more likely to get detonation - your engine will survive redhot runners!JOhn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 2597 wrote:Noticed a little oil puddle from the bottom of the rear engine plate :(Dont want to have to pull the gearbox off to tighten the plate bolts (hoping gasket not need replacing). Obviously this only occured during the last couple days when engine began running (under pressure). Is it likely that the plate bolts would need further tightening of more the gasket failure or anything else?Great to have the car running but dont like to see it 'bleeding' :(Oil puddle sorted. Seems the oil cooler hose was a little loose on the sandwch plate. Seems to be ok now. Will keep checking to see.MOT planned for end of may ;D cant wait. Will still need some work after MOT but at least I will be able to drive it ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 Preparing for MOT on Saturday.All seem to be working fine although a littlr rough running until car has warmed up (carbs not equally ballanced and jetted properly yet).Received new period number plates this morning so only got saturday morning to put them on.If all goes well I will be driving it to Tatton Park classic car show on sunday :) :)First time its seen a road in 15 years.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Well done, Mr. Molten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nilfisken Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Looking forward to hear some good news later tonight then :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 Whohoooooo. Passed MOT :)Sounds great down the streets. First time on road in ten years.Noticed a few anoying problems though. The untested d-type box works but seems a bit loud so may want strip and service! Just as well as there is an oil leak on the back plate so g/box will need to come off again to sort that. Will prob leave that for winter project or put original box back in!! DAMB!Other thing is that brake mater cylinder seems to be leaking too despite new seals! But its great to drive (heavy on the steering :-))and a milestone. 3 yrs in the restoration and loved every minute of it. Might drive it to tatton classic show tomorrow :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Very good news !! Hope mine is on the road around this summer ;)And please do post pictures !! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 4526 wrote:Very good news !! Hope mine is on the road around this summer ;)And please do post pictures !! :)Will get some pics tomorrow ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 Well the time has come to get ready to put the spitfire up for sale.Hwere are some photos of what the car looks like now:http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C420964Thanks to all on the forum who helped and advised over this restoration.Big Thanks to Craig Clavin (GT6Craig).Cometh the Mustang Fastback ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_w83 Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Hi could you recommend any good guides for learning how to paint at home? I have a compressor and spray gun that came with it, just don't know how to use them!ThanksAndy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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