Nick Jones Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Have spent this afternoon rounding up a pair of PI engines. One complete less PI gear and manifolds, one about 2/3 complete.Complete one has engine no. MG 77XXXE and partially stripped one, MG 22XXXESS, which I think means it's a service exchange one. It has the late block with extra longitudinal rib.Anyone know if the MG77..... one is early enough to retain the "real" PI cam? I'd think the other one is anyone's guess and it's largely irrelevant as the cam is one of the missing parts.Currently debating whether to take a chance on the complete one and just sling it in. It's been standing a very long time (in a dry garage) but turns over fine.Regarding engine swapping, what are the pros and cons of Engine and box removed as one from the topEngine and box removed as one from the bottomEngine only removed from the top (is this even possible)Car is a Mk 2. I have no car lift, limited headroom in the garage and a sloping driveway. Not ideal! I have been reminded again today just how bloody heavy these engines are :oCheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I think that will be a 125bhp cam in the later engine.My method is more time consuming, but easier.Drop the gearbox, off of the engine. Then a straight lift up of the engine with a hoist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I do the same as Richard. my shed is high enough to lift motor out with a chain block.Mind you I only do it when absolutely nessessary. They are bloody heavy things. (woot)(woot)I once took a motor and auto box out this way but as I was stripping the bits from a tired body I wasn't worried about damage.Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I lift engine and box out together, undoing the 4 (or is it 6?) crossmember bolts so it springs away from the body gives enough room to turn the sump "around the corner" and lets the car still roll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Never taken a 2000 engine out the top with gearbox attached so can't comment, but only guess this would need a bit of room. As for the other 2 ways, labour wise probably not much in it - if you take out upwards it takes a little while to remove the gearbox, but also takes a while to remove the front crossmember and bleed brakes on reassembly if you drop.I prefer to drop engine and box. Don't need as much height, pretty basic lifting arrangement works ok. Don't have to worry about damaging car and funny angles of withdrawl so possible to do on your own (although I'd recommend having help). Makes gearbox much easier to line up and bolt together when out of car. Only thing is dragging the combined unit out from under the raised car. Luxury would be a strong board with castors and hole for the sump! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAJ Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 If you undo the struts at the back of the hub and undo the calipers and tie to the struts on their flexis you wont need to disconnect any brakes or rebleed. You could also seperate the bottom arms from the subfarme and leave the front suspension in place on both sides.Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Engine out the top, leave the gearbox behind if it doesn;t need to come out,Undo the subframe and bounce the front up on the front springs. Allows sump to clear.Bonnet off obviously.Did it in the Mk1 last year (or was it the year before)Need long extensions to do top nuts on bell housing, but you don't need to lift it so high.CheersColin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigT-DK Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I pulled my engine / gearbox out - by dropping it down.. didn't take to long to remove subframe etc...I reinstalled from the top (as I had already refurbed/mounted the suspension)... engine and gbox already assembled... I used a crane for both jobs.... I prefer option 1... don't like engines dangling in mid air :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Drop it all out below then split the gb from engine - if you have a vehicle dolly or similar that helps or lower onto baking tray so the sump doesn't get hurt when you drag it about - car does not need to be very high and refitting you can lower the body to the engine to a degree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB_Harvey Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Andy's method is the one I use , it's safe and "Do able " on your own if necessary . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 When I had to remove an engine with Tim about a year ago we did it upwards but was a right pain because the engine had to be angled so steeply to clear the cross member. When I have to do this again I will be trying the downwards removal because I am sure it will be easier.Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Used to take me 1/2hr to remove motor and box complete, angle grinder down the leading corners of each front wing, then pull engine/box out in less than 10 minutes ;) Only recommended for front end collisions and spare parts cars ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radders Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I've found Mk2's easier to remove from underneath. There's very little room to get the engine between the bulkhead and over the front cross member if you take it out through the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 that's why you unbolt the crossmember and bounce the springs! You end up with the car still sitting on its wheels but gain an extra 4 inches or so clearance as the crossmember moves away from the body . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 MikeyB wrote:that's why you unbolt the crossmember and bounce the springs! You end up with the car still sitting on its wheels but gain an extra 4 inches or so clearance as the crossmember moves away from the body . . .I like this one apart from the bit where I have to get at the top bell-housing bolts, access being remarkably poor! Andys' will also work if I resign myself to working out doors and the profile of my drive will help give good clearance under the front valence without lifting car especially high. And I'm not at all jealous of your workshop or the fact you are working outdoors in shorts and T-shirt and probably cursing the heat..... (ok, I'm lying!). Looking forward to hearing about the new engine too!I have taken the engine out of a saloon just once before - using Peters method - but it was in a scrapyard.On the cam profile subject, according to Chris Witors information (which I belatedly thought to look up), the change was at MG 75001......... So it's just a little too late - poo! (Unless anyone knows different - he says hopefully). Could whip the rocker cover off and measure the lift I suppose.Thanks to all for their advice!CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Access is not as poor as you think.there is a large rubber bung that you can remove in front of the gearlever.That is where the long extensions I mentioned come in.CheersColin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Been looking inside the less complete of the two engines today as the bores looked very good and I have a spare early cam.Initially all was looking very promising with the engine still quite clean inside, pistons in good shape, bearings hardly marked etcThen I noticed thiswhich became thisPoo! Scrap the quick hone, re-ring and re-shell idea on that one then!Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Nick did you get that engine from Jason.....he does that ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Oddly enough, no :)Have seen this happen on small crank 1300s but not on a six until now. I did know of Jasons though. This looks to have failed due to a poor regrind leaving a sharp edge on no.1 BE fillet radius. The crank is a .010/.010 regrind and the engine a factory exchange one. Dunno if the regrind was a factory one or another done later.You have mail btw....CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Alex wrote:Nick did you get that engine from Jason.....he does that ;DOut with the welder? ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikew Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 That'll polish out ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 They make very good CT Area Winners trophies.. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 thescrapman wrote:They make very good CT Area Winners trophies.. :-)The short bit presumably? The other bit would be a bloomin' heavy trophy!Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Nick_Jones wrote:The short bit presumably? The other bit would be a bloomin' heavy trophy!NickIt is f**king heavy.I bolted it to a length of 6*8 timber as a plinth.It would have been even worse if it had been a 6-pot... :-)I'll see if I can find a picture.CheersColin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 From this http://triumphandadversity.blogspot.com/2011/01/proper-broke.htmlto thishttp://triumphandadversity.blogspot.com/2011/03/club-triumph-annual-dinner-and-awards.html:-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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