Dipped in green glass

[GT6 M]

I think Tims is Mallard,  Tim confirm, with pic

[Paudman]

Quoted from sprtz

Beats a set of minilites anyday 😀   they look like the old American Racing Libre wheel as used by Cas Castner on the gt6's

Did they put the '44' on the rear backwards so other drivers can see it in their mirrors when it reverses up behind them?

[TimW]

Quoted from GT6 M

I think Tims is Mallard,  Tim confirm, with pic

Yes mine is mallard.  Great colour!!  My laptop is down at the moment so i'm using the wifes.  No pics of my car on the wifes pc sorry

[GT6 M]

Quoted from TimW

  My laptop is down at the moment so i'm using the wifes.  No pics of my car on the wifes pc sorry

Tim,  You need to ..Infest it..  [ wifes comp ] with all things GT6 ish, just as a back up, then you always got some info .

[Royboy66]

Quoted from GT6 M

I think Tims is Mallard,  Tim confirm, with pic

Heres a couple! 😀

[Royboy66]

2. 😎

[aar0sc]

You know how Aston Martins have that kind of vent, but with a chrome 'arrow' running through it with the Aston badge on it?
Do the same, but with 'Triumph' or 'GT6'

[TimW]

Thanks Roy

[Docman]

The pictures of the body panels in the spray booth has made up my mind for which color to use for my respray!

[Nick Moore]

I posted a few photos on my blog of the GT6 outside the paint shop. My brother was passing through Mackay and stopped to see it. The photo was taken on his phone, and he says the camera doesn't do it justice. Joe the painter wants to have it finished by Christmas, and I've got a trucking firm lined up to bring it down to Brisbane.

First step - install a winch in my garage! My drive slopes up steeply from the road, and I've bought a 12V winch to bolt to the garage floor. And because the garage floor also slopes toward the road, the car will stay hooked up. If it starts moving, it'll be across the street in about five seconds  

The final spec for the car keeps changing. At one point it was going to be 2L and Sapphire Blue. After my trip to the UK last year, it changed to 2.5L and Mallard greenish.

Another detail I've decided to change is the gearbox. Gearbox Plan A was a Ford type 9. They feel nice and conversion kits are easily available. But I'm in Australia. Sierras were never sold here, Ford instead built Cortinas with 4L straight sixes (dizzy) So I picked up a Sierra 'box in New Zealand, carried it back to Oz and bought a conversion kit. I've now found out with Roy (Scottie)'s help that my Sierra box has a short input shaft and will need to be rebuilt with a longer one. Which I'll have to get from the UK, and then find a gearbox specialist to swap them.

Gearbox Plan B is to fit a J-type overdrive box from a saloon. Pros - they're strong, it retains more of the Triumph pedigree, and it's nice to flick in and out of overdrive. Cons - there are varying reports of how much chassis choppage is required, the ratios might need changing to Dolly Sprint, and I'll need a TR6 engine backplate and flywheel. As I haven't started building the engine yet, this is the time to make the decision.

Time to decide. Hmmm....

[Nick Moore]

I'm loving it Nick looks fantastic the colour and those 4 spoke wheels black center and polished rim look is class mate

Cherrs mate all the best
Hugh

[Sheepy]

That looks gorgeous!

I think those wheels set it off nicely.

Cheers
Shaun

[Alex]

Looks lovely.....and I echo the comments on the wheels!!

[Richard B]

Depends on the spec of your engine.

If you are staying 2litre you could rebuild your gearbox with an uprated GT6 mainshaft from Canleys and fit a J'Type OD unit from a Saloon/Spitfire/Dolly etc.

With the 2.5 PI engine, I've got an 1850 Dolomite J Type gearbox fitted at present (reverse by 3rd), its an 1" longer than a GT6 unit. Although the plan is to rebuild this into a GT6 casing with a CC adapter. Means I can keep reverse by 1st and it will then be a standard length.

[Nick Jones]

Really lovely 🙂

Just to add to your gearbox choices...... you should seriously consider a Toyota W series, the W58 being the pick of the bunch ratio wise.

Dellow (in Oz) and Conversion Components (in NZ) both do kits for the TR6 which would get you a bell housing and clutch sorted.  I also suspect that if you can find a bell housing for a 2WD petrol Hilux (late 80s early 90s maybe) with 21R petrol engine and W series box, you'd be able to make that fit just by modifying the backplate.

The W58 will fit with chopping anything but you may need to bend the inner chassis flanges downwards a bit.  Good ratios, nice change and should be unbustable with a Triumph lump.

If you do talk to either Dellow or CC I'd be very interested to hear what they want for the bell housings as I got so bored with waiting for them to answer my emails I made my own......

James Beaumont (Jango) has one in his GT6.  Pretty sure that's a CC kit as a friend of his imports them to the UK.

Returning to the type 9, there's a company called HI-Gear Engineering here in the UK who make  a T9 conversion for the TR5&6 using a specially cast bellhousing rather than an adapter plate.  
http://hi-gearengineering.co.uk/content/view/18/33/
This might use the short input shaft?  Though if you've already got the other kit it's probably cheaper/easier to swap the input shaft.

Cheers

Nick

[Nick Moore]

Just rang Joe the Painter to get an idea when he thinks the GT6 might be ready for shipping south. He refused to commit to a date (typically), as he's fighting with the bonnet. He's got a perfect 1/4" gap around the rear edges and bottoms of both doors, which is about what they were before. For a car with a lot of dents, it still had good panel gaps. However, while the gap between the front edge of the left door and bonnet is 1/4", the gap between the right door's front edge and bonnet is 3/8", which offends his sense of order. The bonnet may have been twisted slightly when he was straightening out the dents. I tried to reassure him that Triumph were happy with 3/8" panel gaps but he insists that he can do better.

The joys of hiring a perfectionist!

[GT6 M]

Nick, the adjustment of the bonnet cones does have a bigg effect on the gaps around the doors, / bulkhead.

the new bonnet I got was so out of shape i had to  stretch it wider along the top with a ram bar.
as bonnet end was sitting too high above bott of wind screen panel, and ends of bonnet were catching on the corners of windscreen panel.
even then the ends were not, and still are not right, in the corners by the windscreen bottom / door tops
the  soft cones  that I had on did after a short time , did twist,go out of shape so altering the settings of the bonnet.
so made up some really stiff ones frae a screw driver hard plastic handle , wid a bolt running thru them for the strngth needed.  This was just cos bonnet was so out of shape, brand new as well ,

I hope he is trying to set every thing up with the cones in  a place where ..side ways tension.. is not on them, or they WILL deform and alter all gaps.
so ask him this, just to save you trouble later on,

can also adjust the side to side orientation , by moving the front adjusters back and forth, BUT this will make an uneven gap along the windscreen fram,if used to just sort out the door gaps, follow,!!
Car could have sagged a little whenst of chassis as well,
and chassis may have sagged a little of twisted.
Very very hard to get it perfect.
rgds M

[Nick Moore]

Thanks Marcus. He doesn't have any cones yet, so that may be causing some of the problems and letting the bonnet move around. Still, I would have thought that it is better to set the panel gaps without cones, so that the panels aren't being twisted, and then set the cones to locate the bonnet in the 'relaxed' position?

Hopefully the body and chassis haven't sagged (although most bodies seem to after 40 years). I'm blaming the extensive straightening that every part of the bonnet required. Poor thing had been bashed, dented and bodged  

[Nick Moore]

I dropped in to Joe's yesterday to see how close he's got the various panel gaps. Close, but not there yet...

The gap between the bulkhead and rear edge of the bonnet is nice and even, but the gaps between bonnet and doors are a bit wonky. On the left side, the wing behind the wheel arch is a bit flat. That'll be easy to sort out once he fits bonnet cones and latches, as the latches should push the wing outwards slightly. On the right side, the gap is larger, and the wing may need some reshaping. I warned him not to close up the gaps too much as there's a danger of the door hitting the rear edge of the wing. It doesn't help that he's been using the wrong bolts in the front hinges 🤔 I've got new hinge bushes on order.

I'll be flying back up in January, and will take up latches for the doors and tailgate, bonnet catches and bulkhead locating plates for the cones (I'd forgotten that unlike Heralds, GT6 cones mount in the bonnet and need locating plates). But it was the first time I'd seen the body tub in colour, and even under the dust, it looks pretty good. Once the panels have been cut back, it really will look like green glass.

[GT6 M]

Nick loooking at the gap,and also the wheel arch bottom lip to sill, it looks as though the bonnet want to go back wards.
as it is sitting forad of the sill.

As said in message ,  FIT, the cones and catches first, before any thing else is done.
they doo have a profound effect on alignment

Marcus

[rotoflex]

Also he should have the H-piece radio surround under the dash, to put the scuttle where it's going to wind up.

[Nick Moore]

Good point Bill, more hardware to carry north on my next flight! So that's one H bracket, two cone locating plates, two bonnet latches, two latch hooks, and two hinge bushes. Until they're fitted we won't know where we stand. Now I've seen the panels for myself, I'm starting to see how the cones and catches change the shape.

[JensH]

... and don't forget alu spacers at the engine side of front outriggers?

[Nick Moore]

Right, I've been sent back to summery, humid tropical Mackay for a week, and squeezed an hour in at the paint shop last night. Joe's fitted the door latches and striker plates and the doors close beautifully - much better than the Herald's. I've fitted the bonnet latches and cone recess plates, and it's starting to take shape (literally). Fitting the 'H' bracket under the dash didn't seem to alter the bulkhead position much.

I also gave Joe some new bonnet hinge bushes, so he can set the alignment properly and make any last tweaks to the shut lines. Getting close now!

It's nerve-wracking to go anywhere near the repainted shell with tools though, as I'm constantly worrying about hitting a panel with a spanner or ratchet. I'll probably end up wrapping my tools in foam rubber!

[JensH]

Give it a "ding" - and get started! 😎