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What have you done recently or are planning to do soon to your Triumph?


Tim Bancroft

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17 hours ago, iani said:

plan B is to go for a bolt sensing unit. 

That`s what I used on my Vitesse with a Saloon O/D box, I made a bracket that bolts on the back of the O/D unit and holds the sensor which points at the propshaft bolts, works great.

Steve

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9 hours ago, Steve P said:

That`s what I used on my Vitesse with a Saloon O/D box, I made a bracket that bolts on the back of the O/D unit and holds the sensor which points at the propshaft bolts, works great.

Steve

Do you happen to have a pic Steve?

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  • 2 weeks later...

2000 Mk1 Estate - my door seals are in a poor state, the drivers one being particularly bad and frankly embarrassing with bits hanging out when the door was closed. I had bought a couple of seals from CW a few months ago but kept putting off fitting as I knew it wasn't an easy job. In the end it took me two hours just to do the drivers door, it wasn't easy but more fiddly than anything, I now need to do the others, just not today, one a day is probably about the right pace for this job.

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1 hour ago, Baldry1500 said:

Spitfire - New 1500 engine built by James Godfrey-Dunne fast road cam, new head, stainless 421 exhaust, 123tune+ ignition.

GT6 MK1 - Purchased yesterday. Collected from St. Austell

20230729_131514.jpg

So will there be a car change for the RBRR? Cracking choice of new car but I’m a bit biased 🤣

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1 hour ago, Baldry1500 said:

Spitfire - New 1500 engine built by James Godfrey-Dunne fast road cam, new head, stainless 421 exhaust, 123tune+ ignition.

GT6 MK1 - Purchased yesterday. Collected from St. Austell

20230729_131514.jpg

Are you going to ask for a change of username on here now James?

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On 30/07/2023 at 19:14, Nick Jones said:

Mr Atkinson is driving in the UK…..

Which proves the problem is not in the technology but in its execution. I believe you are at about where Germany was beginning of 2022 so there is hope for you....! While we were waiting for our EV to arrive I was hearing similar horror stories and was very scared it would be a pain. By the time the car arrived things had gotten much much better.

I did the same trip this past Friday and Saturday. Shaved about 30 minutes off by optimizing my charging.

It was a piece of cake again.

Sadly, after 2200 KM of traveling to Bremen I took the fiberglass hood/bonnet to the body shop in Stuttgart. We fitted it to the tub and it was awful. Not sure if the support rods moved during transport but it was still about 1 cm too high on the passenger side and the back of the fenders/wings foul the doors.

The headlight surrounds still had large gaps and did not match the curves at all.

This was heartbreaking because in the shop the guy fit it to two other Spitfires and it looked OK.

No clue why mine is so different.

It is all manageable but there is no one in the area I trust to do it.

As the body shop that has the car wants it out I had to decide to go with the original steel hood/bonnet so the project can move forward and I will prop the fiberglass one up in the corner until I feel like driving to Bremen with the Spitfire and get the fiberglass to match my car.

Luckily the trailer was borrowed and the car was a company car so apart from a few hundred € I am only out my time.

Still, part of me is almost happy the project is moving forward albeit not exactly as I wanted it to. He claims it will be sent off in 2-3 weeks` time and back in 3.4 weeks after that. So hopefully in September it will be home and I can start on the mechanical stuff that I can do in my own garage.

I reckon I will get the suspension up to snuff, then the brakes.  Putting the windows in and then the new (custom) wiring loom.

That should only keep me busy for what, 3? 4? years? 😄

 

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Lots of recent work done to my cars...no pics though:

TR6: Fitted a TR GB sytec fuel pump, this is now positioned between the rear LHS wing and the boot wall, I have built a shield as I am worried about water and debris damage. Fitted the pre pump filter in the boot though. New Prestige Injection PSV in the boot as well. Whilst in there, I used the old cardboard boot wall between the boot and the fuel tank as a template to make a new one, then covered with some black carpet, surprised how well this has worked out. Intending on fitting a new light in the boot as well, that will be the same as the type fitted to the prop tunnel in TR6s. 

Looking at the car, I am surprised at how much work I have now done to her in the 4 years I have owned her: Engine, gearbox, drivetrain and brakes have all be renewed plus MX5 seats. Its now a fast tourer and capable of long journeys. Using her for the forthcoming RBRR, should be interesting!

2.5Pi (SU) mk1: New engine this year, rebuilt by James Cooper and a very nice job done by him. I did not enjoy taking the engine out though, found the dropping of the suspension to then pull the engine and gearbox out from underneath quite stressful, oh for a two post lift! Whilst at it, I renewed the bushes in the drag struts and all the fastenings that bolt the crossmember and engine mounting crossmember to the car, this was worthwhile. Also fitted new end rear subframe bushes as one had collapsed.  Last year the car was fully re-wired with most of the circuits fitted with Lucas 6RA relays, something I may regret!  Just need to get the car aligned and fix a gearbox leak and she will be good for next years motoring.

GT6 mk2: Getting close to having owned her for 40 years...bought 5th December 1983. Drove her yesterday and I have a small list of work needed: fit the new leaf spring I purchased and sort out the header tank that I use in conjunction with the Golf radiator fitted to the car.

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What have I done? And am still doing?

Earlier this year, at Thruxton, I had an argument with the Armco.     The front chassis  end 'horns' that hold the bumper bar on SofS were bent back and up, forcing the radiator into the front of the engine.   My first thought was  to get them bent back again, and I consulted my local body building firm.     While they do this sort of work and have a proper jig to align the panels, modern car metal is quite different.     Boron steel and other alloys cannot be heated to soften them, and the shop doesn't even have a oxy-acetylene torch today!      Anyway, the Boss had been very familiar with the Triumph small chassis cars in the day, and said that replacement, rather than re-bending, had been the rule then.

The parts are not available, but I still have the chassis from Silverback, which has doubtful geometry overall, having span and rolled at the 'Ring, but the frotn end was intact, so I cut it off.      I did the same surgery to SofS's front end then constructed a primitive jig, to hold the transplant into place:

newfrontonjig.thumb.jpg.7ed763134f2688b8e7c7a8cc3372f691.jpg

(SofS is 'Son of Silverback', because when it came to me, it inherited so many of Silverback's parts.  It has even more now!)

After positioning the front end, checking by measurements from the workshop manual Chassis Dimensions Plan, I  welded it into place:

weldedon.thumb.jpg.603988f5e919fec169fe661130fc5021.jpg

To protect non-metallic parts  from welding heat, I stripped off the front suspension and steering, and now "reassembly is the reverse procedure", but Ive taken the opportunity to replace all the polyurethane bushings.   Wheels back on today, and all the bolts to be torqued with them on the ground.

Then, it's new radiators, water and oil, and bodywork.     Thanks to  RogerGuzzi (thank you, Roger!)  I have an intact bonnet to replace the shattered old one, and then it's the painting. 

IMG_20230729_102549.thumb.jpg.382937c49f6df66f9dc6bd938474b828.jpg

 But that's motor racing for you!

 

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Any further back along the chassis, and you're into the suspension mounts steering mounts and suspension turrets.  And the chassis rails are one piece, all the way back.

  No idea where you mean!  I think I cut at the right place.

John

 

bent bumper bar 1.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 30/07/2023 at 18:54, Baldry1500 said:

Spitfire - New 1500 engine built by James Godfrey-Dunne fast road cam, new head, stainless 421 exhaust, 123tune+ ignition.

GT6 MK1 - Purchased yesterday. Collected from St. Austell

20230729_131514.jpg

Wasn’t your Spitfire fast enough! 🤣 

Good choice of second car, so which one will be on the RBRR?

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Tim

I got fed up with the almost useless original boot light in my 6 and replaced it with an LED strip bought from a caravan outfitter.  A couple of supplied spring clips screwed to the card liner are sufficient to hold it in placeIts so effective that I’ve had to tape over the top part so that I can see past it. Really effective!  sorry no photos, but I’ll be at the RBRR send off in the 6, Pimento red, PJM746L

Edited by Pierre
Another typo correction
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Went on a roughly 100 mile trip with the Pfalz and Lake Constance Spitfire clubs...  had to follow in my Enyaq as my car is still in bits!

We also had a fairly rare 2500 LHD in the mix. We have some beautiful roads here in Southwest Germany. Did a jump over the border to Alsace and visited the Maginot line. Very enjoyable day and apart from a muffler bracket breaking on one car no problems!

 

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Tim

Now have a photo of my replacement LED boot light, installed and switched off TRBootlight-off.thumb.jpg.7098311e65f10b996aae11368983a9b3.jpg

Crinkly tape and scratched card readily apparent.  I tried a photo with the light switched on (it has its own switch as well as the TR switch) but the LED swamped the photo even with the tape in place!

Edited by Pierre
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1 hour ago, Wendy Dawes said:

Collected Mabel’s newly refurbished HS2 carbs from Andrew Turner of Turner Carbs in Colsterworth Lincolnshire.  A lovely job he made of them.   Now to get a mk2 spitfire exhaust manifold then to get them fitted during winter lay up along with the J type overdrive gearbox and replace the front trunnions 

IMG_1071.jpeg

IMG_1072.jpeg

Looking good 😊

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Planning to put my rebuilt alloys on the saloon.

They seem to be 15" X 5 so they'll come with 185 tires and see what happens with the offset (could be good).

My question is about wheel studs and bolts. If i measured well, it's 1.71 inch at rear and 1.38 inch at front

I thought buying 7/16 unf strud 55mm for the rear and genuine rear to put at front.

Is it ok?

Any link is welcome

 

20230914_183018.jpg

Edited by frenchiemk2
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16 hours ago, frenchiemk2 said:

Planning to put my rebuilt alloys on the saloon.

They seem to be 15" X 5 so they'll come with 185 tires and see what happens with the offset (could be good).

My question is about wheel studs and bolts. If i measured well, it's 1.71 inch at rear and 1.38 inch at front

I thought buying 7/16 unf strud 55mm for the rear and genuine rear to put at front.

Is it ok?

Any link is welcome

 

20230914_183018.jpg

They are conic steel inserts in alloy wheels

I spotted those studs, anyone could tell if they are the right ones exist in 55 and 45 mm ? https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/7-16-unf-wheel-stud-55mm-long-ws-7-16-2-1-4

avis.jpg

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