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What Have You Still To Do To Your Car


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Less then 6 months to go till the start at Knebworth for the much anticipated, delayed 2021 RBRR.

So what have you to do to your car yet?

Here's mine.

Triumph Spitfire 1500, Car No. 5:

Fit brake servo unit.

Re-torque head and change oil after engine rebuild.

Fit relay for lights, uprate bulbs and fit new chrome bezels.

Small amount of bodywork repairs - small bubbles at bottom of driver's door, spot of rust on bottom of sill below the passenger door and a few scratches and stone chips.

All the major work had been done previously before lockdown such as the engine rebuild and then it sat in the garage for months.

Looking forward to better weather and the chance to rack up some decent mileage before October.

So, what about the rest of you?

Jim.

Edited by McJim Too
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Items on the to do list for my Spitfire 1500 are:

Replace front disks 

Change Head gasket

Service and possibly change gearbox but not sure if I’ll leave that until after the event.

 

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Hi all. A short list which requires a lot of work on my mk3 Spit, hopefully enough time though. 

1. Rebuild engine following rebore

2. Rebuild gearbox with 'new' overdrive

3. Stick 1+2 back in car and run it in. 

4. Get plenty of sleep in week before RBRR!

Pete

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Pete,

Basically the big end bearings were on their way out with a fair bit of knocking from the engine.

Whoever rebuilt the engine had made a bog of it.

The bottom of the sump had a layer of sludge (the bearings presumably), the oil pump either wasn't working properly or partially blocked by the sludge.

The centre of the cylinder bores was wider than the ends necessitating a salvaged engine block.

Every time we went deeper into the engine, there were more horrors.

It was rebuilt by a race engine builder at McFaddens Classic Cars in Motherwell and is still being run in.  I got the car back just before lockdown.

Done about 500 miles on it since with no problems, so here's hoping for an engine event free Round Britain.

Might go back to the exhaust that came with the car when I bought it as the standard one is a bit weedy.

Jim.

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2 hours ago, McJim said:

Pete,

Basically the big end bearings were on their way out with a fair bit of knocking from the engine.

Whoever rebuilt the engine had made a bog of it.

The bottom of the sump had a layer of sludge (the bearings presumably), the oil pump either wasn't working properly or partially blocked by the sludge.

The centre of the cylinder bores was wider than the ends necessitating a salvaged engine block.

Every time we went deeper into the engine, there were more horrors.

It was rebuilt by a race engine builder at McFaddens Classic Cars in Motherwell and is still being run in.  I got the car back just before lockdown.

Done about 500 miles on it since with no problems, so here's hoping for an engine event free Round Britain.

Might go back to the exhaust that came with the car when I bought it as the standard one is a bit weedy.

Jim.

Fair enough Jim, sounds like it was well worth the effort. Mine was in need of a re-bore, was burning oil almost as fast as petrol. Otherwise was fairly sound but i've had the crank ground as it was worn slightly out of spec.

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On 15/04/2021 at 11:57, PeteStupps said:

@McJim what prompted your engine rebuild and how many miles do you want to get on it before October?? I've got a lot to do but hoping to have covered maybe 1000 miles on the rebuilt engine over August & September

@PaulB what's up with your existing gearbox? 

Pete

Pete

the gearbox is making a slight droning noise in first, second and third gears, so is on its way out and will need reconditioning. All gears work ok and noise is not too bad at moment so I think it will last for the event but if time and money permits I’ll see if I can change it before the event.

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My mk3 GT6 needs the newly rebuilt limited slip diff putting back in, the crank thrust washers need attention and the gearbox tunnel needs extending a little more to make a good seal on the bulkhead as the type 9 5 speed gearbox has been raised a touch to accommodate the new extractor manifold and 2 1/4 inch exhaust system. This means the tunnel doesn't quite fit anymore. Then just tidying the interior and I may put the original passenger seat in as the Westfield wide body seats I currently have in the car are pretty extreme for such a long drive. 

20190418_151504.jpg

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5 hours ago, TimW said:

My mk3 GT6 needs the newly rebuilt limited slip diff putting back in, the crank thrust washers need attention and the gearbox tunnel needs extending a little more to make a good seal on the bulkhead as the type 9 5 speed gearbox has been raised a touch to accommodate the new extractor manifold and 2 1/4 inch exhaust system. This means the tunnel doesn't quite fit anymore. Then just tidying the interior and I may put the original passenger seat in as the Westfield wide body seats I currently have in the car are pretty extreme for such a long drive. 

 

Hi Tim

 

What's extreme about the Westfield seats? Lack of padding perhaps? I am looking forward to sitting in your GT6 sometime to try out those seats.

Regards

Bruce

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36 minutes ago, Rubce said:

Hi Tim

 

What's extreme about the Westfield seats? Lack of padding perhaps? I am looking forward to sitting in your GT6 sometime to try out those seats.

Regards

Bruce

They are very narrow Bruce. The kit car community call them kidney crushers! Padding isn't bad. I think mine could do with a little more in the base but I've no idea how old they are or how much use they have had. I have seen another set that are the same as mine for sale except they have yellow piping and he wants £350 for the pair 

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My 4A needs absolutely nothing apart from normal service items as usual, just increasingly regular use in line with the progressive and hopefully 'irreversible' lifting of travel restrictions. I am sure that the more often our cars are used the better they run and the more reliable they remain. 

Tim

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3 hours ago, Tim Hunt said:

I am sure that the more often our cars are used the better they run and the more reliable they remain

I'm not sure, my 1300fwd breaks down every time I drive it but never seems to break down if I leave it gathering dust in the garage for 6 months... 🙂

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Well on the blue barge - there's a bit to do!

The loom had to be replaced as the old one just melted a few too many times ! So as you know it was a full interior strip out - then the new loom had to be tweaked at the back for the estate.

I'm currently sorting all the woodwork so it should be great when it's done - probably a few months off getting her back on the road but looking forward to the event !!

Cheers,

Pete

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Well we have an MOT which covers the event, most of the suspension has been replaced, several holes welded up. But the paint needs plenty of work, carpets are ordered and need fitting.  

 

 

TR7 should be a nice cabin to be in then.

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Well as I have offered to Marshall at the start, and I am coming down in the Herald, I think I can comment here :)

Started and driven for its MOT in Feb, which it passed. 400 miles last year, 4000 the previous year. EFI mapping needs a bit of a tweak as it's hesitating at low revs and the modified dash needs finishing,but basically just needs to be used!

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Our ‘67 Herald 1200 Estate is a a rolling restoration project that My 15 year old son and I are working on.  He wants to go into classic car restoration or motorsport engineering as a career,  so this is a learning platform for him.

Jobs in progress at the moment:

Gearbox removed for clutch replacement (noisy release bearing) and replacement of gearbox gaskets and seals.  The box looks to be in good shape otherwise.

Make up a new loom for the overdrive to incorporate the inhibitor switch and new relay,  had been fitted without either in circuit.

Rear crank oil seal, sump gasket, timing cover gasket and timing chain / tensioner and front crank seal.

Carbs removed for overhaul, rear hs2 developed a leak after fuel pump rebuilt.

New manifold gasket, weld small strange hole in side of extractor manifold previously covered by a jubilee clip!...

Fuel line replacement and rerouting to original spec,  the float lids have been put on opposite and fuel pipe zig zags across the top of the twin SU’s - not ideal.

Replace diff mounts and gearbox mounting.

Fit new polythene gearbox tunnel.

Refurb rear seat base - its lost most of it padding and is like a medieval torture device to sit on !

Other plans:

Fit new N/s A pillar drip channel and deal with corrosion in pillar.

Bonnet front corner repairs and new D plates

Fabricate and weld in repair section to n/s rear pillar.

Fit repair panels to both lower door skins.

Deal with terrible paint job (peeling a flaking off).

Refurb rear spring, fit lowering block

Fit solid rack mounts.

Fettle fibreglass valances to fit better.

Should keep us busy for a while...

 

 

 

 

Edited by RichC69
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Quite a comprehensive list RichC if all this to be accomplished and the car shaken down by 1st October for the 27th RBRR. However, be encouraged that some have overcome bigger challenges in 5 months or so before previous Runs. It's good to know you have a keen young assistant and even better to hear he may consider classic restoration as a career. There is a definite future need for such skills and some excellent apprenticeships available.

Just a point on the o/d. I think your Herald has a column switch like the TR4A. If the circuit is similar be aware that if one of the leads to this switch shorts to earth then the inhibitor switches will be bypassed and o/d will be permanently engaged in any gear (INCLUDING REVERSE) whenever the ignition is on. Be sure the leads are well insulated where they are routed down the steering column. I think you will notice an improvement from the a solid rack mounts in reducing float and sharpening response. When I fitted such mounts to the TR I had to take a little off the mating faces to ensure they actually clamped the rack securely (without crushing it of course). You should check this point.

Tim

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16 minutes ago, Tim Hunt said:

Quite a comprehensive list RichC if all this to be accomplished and the car shaken down by 1st October for the 27th RBRR. However, be encouraged that some have overcome bigger challenges in 5 months or so before previous Runs. It's good to know you have a keen young assistant and even better to hear he may consider classic restoration as a career. There is a definite future need for such skills and some excellent apprenticeships available.

Just a point on the o/d. I think your Herald has a column switch like the TR4A. If the circuit is similar be aware that if one of the leads to this switch shorts to earth then the inhibitor switches will be bypassed and o/d will be permanently engaged in any gear (INCLUDING REVERSE) whenever the ignition is on. Be sure the leads are well insulated where they are routed down the steering column. I think you will notice an improvement from the a solid rack mounts in reducing float and sharpening response. When I fitted such mounts to the TR I had to take a little off the mating faces to ensure they actually clamped the rack securely (without crushing it of course). You should check this point.

Tim

A very good point regarding the rack mounts. I also had to take some off the mounting faces in order to get them to clamp enough to stop the rack moving. 

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Thanks Tim,  Yes it’s got a column switch which was wired directly to the solenoid and ign live.  I will be running it via a new od relay and the inhibitor switch with an inline fuse.

I didn’t realise this thread was connected to preparation for the RBRR,  were not signed up for that at the moment.  All of this will be done for the end of May when we’re hopefully taking the car to Goodwood for the Restomod weekender meeting.  My son is very keen to learn.

So far with my supervision he’s rebuilt the Dynamo, overhauled the control box, changed the engine mountings, rewired the heater fan, welded up the n/s front footwell, assembled a new s/s exhaust system with mandrel bends and pipe from fabco, upgraded the front brakes with type 14 calipers, alloy hubs, new wheel bearings and a new master cylinder.

 

Edited by RichC69
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