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GT6 restoration. Why did I take this on!


John Bonnett

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242 wrote:
Well impressed mate, it took me 17 years to do the same to mine.
I've another one in the garage to restore if you fancy something to keep you busy.

Cheers
RR


Apart from the chassis restoration which I did myself, all credit must go to West Country Triumph who have done an amazing job very quickly and, most importantly, within my budget.

regards

John

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Loving the Restoration Saga so far John!  :) Your cars gonna be a stunner when it done, and you've picked the best colour i think for a GT6, French blue!  ;)

Oohhh a Sunbeam Tiger, Truly lovely! is it a Mk1 with the 4.3 V8 or the Super Rare Mk2 with the 4.8??  ::)

Jordan

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2504 wrote:
Loving the Restoration Saga so far John!  :) Your cars gonna be a stunner when it done, and you've picked the best colour i think for a GT6, French blue!  ;)

Oohhh a Sunbeam Tiger, Truly lovely! is it a Mk1 with the 4.3 V8 or the Super Rare Mk2 with the 4.8??  ::)

Jordan


1966 Mk1 with the 260cu V8 :-)

I won't clutter up this BB with Sunbeam stuff, but you can follow the restoration here if you like.

http://www.sunbeamtiger.co.uk/index2.htm

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  • 1 month later...

Yes,
Steel is hard work to deform into the correct shape for the ends and quietly rusts away in hidden locations.
Copper is more malleable but can quickly work harden and fracture from repeated bending.
Kunifer is also easily formed like copper, takes longer to work harden; but stays shiny for longer  ;D

I tend to use Kunifer now (with brass ends)  

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Can I just ask what material the strips are on top of the rear wings, as in are they painted strips of steel, what colour are they if they are, and what colour should they be for a yellow GT6, or should they be chrome.
I have just started a restoration of GT6 and have the strips but don't know if they should be chromed or painted not that I'm anywhere near that stage yet.

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Sorry no Megajolt. The blanking plate was just to stop screws and general detritus falling into the engine whilst the distributor was away being rebuilt and converted to electronic ignition.

I would have preferred to use Kunifer rather than copper but unfortunately the rubbish flaring tool that I have will only cope with copper. Having said that, I've never had any failures with copper over many years so I don't expect there to be any problems with it.

The distributor is now back with me and the rear silencer box is on. Unfortunately, the silencer brackets were a casualty of the rebuild so I had to make new ones from stainless steel which I've bolted on.

So pretty close to the moment of truth when I discover whether the engine is any good or not; a bit nail biting really  :(

John

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Great excitement! It runs
There is nothing like the elation when the engine bursts into life for the first time. I cobbled together an ignition circuit and amazingly even the alternator worked; the first time it had been run since 1989. Operating the choke needed a bit of dexterity without a cable but we managed it. I apologise for the amateurishness but I'd like to share the start up with you. Here is the YouTube link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3T-HfBlqeLI

John

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cliftyhanger wrote:
And it sounds pretty OK. Well, seemed to on the video. Marvellous news :)


It does sound good Clive; very smooth and no rattles.

The heater leaks when under a bit of pressure. Should I look for a replacement or try K seal? Sensible route would be replacement particularly as at this stage I can just remove it without having to strip out everything first but cost also plays a part and I have had some good results with K seal.

regards

John

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