Batch.y Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 What would you guys recommend as the best Engine Oil replacement - I've seen a few recommended, but thought would get some opinions.Running an original Mk3 spit, never been bored or skimmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 A decent 20 50 or 15 50 motor oil. For normal motoring, comma sonic is good value. If you drive the car hard and so on, valvoline VR1, millers css 20 50 or even penrite oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Got to recommend Valvoline VR1, excellent oil that seems to hold onto its properties very well.Usually between £27-30 a plastic can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I was speaking to a guy from Bardahl the other day for quite a while. Interesting chat and he came over to talk after seeing all the cars on the drive. When I said I knew people using VR1 he didn't seem massively impressed. When I said they'd found it more stable etc he straight away said "yeah, it's got more zinc in it etc so will in those older engines" so he clearly knew his stuff. I grabbed his business card and might give their stuff a go one day, when I get the new engine done.http://www.bardahl.com/http://www.top-oils.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/20w50-engine-oil/?521770500&0&cc5_251VR1 is at £29.98 at Europarts. with free delivery. With 30% discount till midnight tonight £20.99Code MIDMONTH30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 timbancroft61 wrote:Got to recommend Valvoline VR1 ...I have to agree there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 VR1 is at £29.98 at Europarts. with free delivery.With 30% discount till midnight tonight £20.92 gallons waiting for me at Chertsey tomorrow,£21 a pop cant beat it.Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebobby Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 So is VR1 suitable for none raced engines then, I don't intend on any hard driving in mine. At that price you can't go wrong and it's worth buying a few tins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I now use millers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69vitesse Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 firebobby wrote:So is VR1 suitable for none raced engines then, I don't intend on any hard driving in mine. At that price you can't go wrong and it's worth buying a few tinsYes, its an ecoxcellent oil for older engines. Lots of ZDDP.http://www.valvolineeurope.com/uploadedFiles/2658.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Using Millers CSS 20/60 ,bit better than 20/50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 VR1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebobby Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Picked some up today, thanks for the link Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Has anyone researched the ZDDP additives? I bought some ZDDP Max from Amazon, the selection made because in the absence of a recognized manufacturer, this one had more buyers. But it could contain only cat hair & Karo Corn Syrup for all I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 ZDDP additives MIGHT work... BUT.... Having spent quite a lot of time formulating engine oils for a well known company which is a sponsor of the footballists at the moment, I can say that it is a difficult thing to work with. It is activated (i.e. it plates itself out onto any available metal surface) at about 55 centigrade, so you need be sure that your sump is cold before adding it - when we made experimental blends in the lab we made sure the oil was below 40 before adding it to avoid having a stirrer blade that was very well protected from wear and none left in the bulk! It would then take a good 15 mins stirring for a 5L blend to ensure that the ZDDP had dispersed (it is more dense than engine oil and sinks to the bottom). So I'd suggest if you have facilities to add it before the oil is in the car, and you know how much to add on top of that which is already in the formulation, then go for it. Be aware that too much is just as bad as not enough.My best advice? Change your oil regularly - every 3000 miles OR every year (if you don't get to the 3000 miles). This will ensure that it's at the optimum condition if it's mineral based. Synthetic - make sure it's really synthetic as many countries have no legal definition for the term and some oil companies can be unscrupulous as a consequence. Best to stick to 20W50 and make sure that there's a SAE specification on the pack - if not then it's probably reclaimed from that big container that you pour your oil into at the dump......Thanks,Karen (Mrs Rarebits) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Two very helpful people under the same roof! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hasbeen Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Before the days of synthetic oils, a friend of mine always used re refined oil, on the grounds that, as it was a mix of all of them, it would have to be better than half of them.None of his cars were good enough to last long enough to test the theory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 heraldcoupe wrote:My best advice? Change your oil regularly - every 3000 miles OR every year (if you don't get to the 3000 miles). This will ensure that it's at the optimum condition if it's mineral based. Synthetic - make sure it's really synthetic as many countries have no legal definition for the term and some oil companies can be unscrupulous as a consequence. Best to stick to 20W50 and make sure that there's a SAE specification on the pack - if not then it's probably reclaimed from that big container that you pour your oil into at the dump......Thanks,Karen (Mrs Rarebits)30 years ago I used to work for a small lubricant companyb called Freedom Oils in Tinsley,Sheffield as a salesman.The blender/technican or whatever he was used to say that "our" oils were better than the big oil companies products cos we weren't good enough to produce "down" to the minimum needed for the SAE specs etc!Not sure about that myself but certainly SE spec oil then - ie the early 80s was a good. We knew "SF spec" as Ford spec due to those demanding people at Ford wanting a higher spec than normal ;DAnyway, I have been out of fuel and lubricants for 20 years but I would certainly agree with Karen, use a good SAE spec 20/50 and change it often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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